i am putting in a cnc staging brake on my race car and was wondering if i can still keep the back brakes hooked up? or do i have to take off the brake line and only hook up the staging brake? this is the one.... http://www.titanmotorsports.com/cncstbr.html

 

sounds like you want a inline cutting brake.

 

that one wont work for what you want. They do make one that will.

 

You need the one without a master cylinder on it. Just put it inline between your master cylinder and the rear brakes.

 

that is the brake you want. definitly do not tie front/rear together...(see six sigma rsx) and never pull that lever to try and slow down......

 

How would you run your rear brakes then being that there isn't an "in" and "out". You don't want to disconnect the rear brakes alltogether and just run them with this hand brake.

I used the one without a master cylinder, ran it inline to the rear and it worked flawlessly. Plus its cheaper. haha We also ran a proportioning valve for the rear brakes after the hand brake

There is definately more than one way to do things though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would you run your rear brakes then being that there isn't an "in" and "out". You don't want to disconnect the rear brakes alltogether and just run them with this hand brake.

I used the one without a master cylinder, ran it inline to the rear and it worked flawlessly. Plus its cheaper. haha We also ran a proportioning valve for the rear brakes after the hand brake

There is definately more than one way to do things though</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes, i do agree, there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. i didnt want to mess with prop valve to get it all figured out. this other staging brake was much more simple imo.

this staging brake we use, has a master cyl built in. so you pull the lever, it pushes the fluild, brakes work... release lever.. releave pressure, fluid return to master..


Modified by dturbocivic at 6:23 PM 2/16/2007

 

ok, so you can use that brake inline as well? from the pic it look as if there was only one port on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so you can use that brake inline as well? from the pic it look as if there was only one port on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it does not work "in line"

 

more info on this guys..ill be adding a staging brake to my race car too. i already got a kens kustom brake master cylinder for the front brakes and now i need to know what to do about my rear...

 

DO NOT HAVE YOUR REAR AND FRONT BRAKE HOOKED UP TOGETHER. Use the pedal for the front and the staging brake for rear only. if you keep the front and rear on the same system they most likely will lock up when go to stop at the end of the track. Just ask Danny Tran about this.

 

sorry for using your thread...........................


will this work...

kens kustom brake master cylinder for front..
staging brake for rear
and ebrake for slowing down...
ive been up since 1pm yest. and just got out of work so sorry about be sloppy (8:30am)

 

why not jsut take the ebrake out, and use the staging brake to slow donw with the back wheels??

Thats how we had ours hooked up when we had our car. Front brakes on the pedal, rears on the handle... worked great.

SOmeone mentioned that above aswell.

 

i was thinking about removing the ebrake but anything can happen..and just in case the front brakes arent enough to stop and the staging brake gives out them theres always an ebrake.......just to be safe..i dont know i gotta go to sleep..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I B BANGGIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about removing the ebrake but anything can happen..and just in case the front brakes arent enough to stop and the staging brake gives out them theres always an ebrake.......just to be safe..i dont know i gotta go to sleep..</TD></TR></TABLE>


ever pull your ebrake in the rain? well that is what would happen to you on the track....

do not use the rear tires to slow down..

if you are building a racecar, ditch the ebrake cables. you can use a bungy cord to hold the staging brake so the car wont move.

 

all you non believers can read through here.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1853981&page=1

 

more specificly here

http://www.modified.com/sportc...y.wmv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is the brake you want. definitly do not tie front/rear together...(see six sigma rsx) and never pull that lever to try and slow down......

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Had they setup the proportioning valves correctly that wouldn't have happened. When NHRA found out years ago that the HR cars were only using front brakes they about flipped. It was right after Kubo's car came off the ground and she crashed. Somehow people convinced NHRA that you only run front brakes on a FWD car.

Both of my cars are setup like you have it...and only run front brakes. But I do not feel like that is the best way to do it. Setting up the proportioning valves isn't that difficult. People get in trouble because they have too much going to the rear brakes.

Someone mentioned slowing down with the staging brake...eeek. That will put you in the wall before its over.

 

up grade your front brakes and rotors and put a shoot on the car. this is better than hitting the wall. plus there is enough time to slow do in the shut down area at the track. you should have no problem slowing down. dont take short cutswith your car cause you will pay for it down the road.

 

You can't adjust the the brakes to work well when the the chute just hit and the tires are barely on the ground. So that will still be a bad time to have the rear brakes on cuase there just gonna lock and then your going side ways at 160 mph. NO REAR BRAKES. But when my dam chute falls under the bars your dam right I use the stageing brake . I can't stop without it. Thats why I'm getting a launcher.

 

i was thinking about putting it the way I B BANGGIN has shown in the pic. do you folks think that will be fine?

 

I have one on my car were I installed a non res cnc unit. I just took my rear brake feed in to the stage brake in port followed by out feed back to the stock rear brake lines. I've also installed a brake light switch on the unit to control my 2 step. Pulling back on the brake activates the 2 step. Heres a pic of my set up.

 

i always though these were tied into the front brakes on a fwd car. So you could preload the clutch nicely without worrying about breaking the beams, because i know personally my car drags the rear wheels fairly easily, even with them being locked up

 

You must load the **** out of it then. There all on the back tires. I don't drag the tires, I just plant the wheelie bars. watch my video

 

Now heres the question are these legal in SFWD? and does anybody know the bore size on that master cylinder?