I broke a timing belt and bent valves in a 96 si, OBD2 H23, so I decided to swap. I bought a JDM OBD 1 H22 from hmotorsonline and dropped it in. However it won't start. From the old engine I am using the tranny, external coil, dizzy, engine wire harness, upper intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail and belt tensioner. I bought new plugs, wires, rotor, cap and belts. I am also using an OBD1 ecu with bought conversion harness. The car turns but doesn't start. I have a full tank of gas and am getting voltage from the coil. I have performed all of the checks in the service manual and also put the ICM that came in the dizzy with internal coil into the old dizzy that I am using to see if that was the problem. VTEC is wired up and I am not getting any CELs besides the 2 seconds that it is supposed to come on. Can anyone possibly tell me why my car might not be firing?

 

are you sure you're getting fuel? did you take out the resistor pack for the injectors?

 

I know I am getting fuel to the rail. I had trouble with this originally because I was missing fuses thank you dealership. Anyway after I replaced them I loosened the banjo and fuel sprayed out. But I am using the h22 injectors. Isn't the injector resistor the thing beside the clutch resevior? I am still using the one that came with the car. Is this a problem? If so what do I need to do to fix it?

 

what about the tdc sensor, it should be on the oil pump fo the h23 and in the dizzy of the obd1 h22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the tdc sensor, it should be on the oil pump fo the h23 and in the dizzy of the obd1 h22 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats is not true. The sensor you are talking about is the crank angle sensor. And it is on the oil pump for obd2 motors. and it is in the dizzy for obd1 motor.

If he uses the dizzy and the engine wire harness from the obd1 he should be fine.

 

I am using dizzy and wire harness from obd2 engine. Would the crank angle sensor prevent the engine from starting? Honestly I thought that it wasn't needed on obd 1 engines. If I need it would it be easier to take the oil pump out of the doner engine and put it in the new one or wire up the dizzy with the internal coil?

 

If the engine is already in the car. I would say wire up the obd1 dizzy.

So you have three ways you can do it
1. wire in obd1 dizzy
2. swap harness to obd1 us spec and use obd1 dizzy
3. change oilpump to obd2.

You can't do #2 becuase you have a jdm harness which you can't use.

 

OK it looks like I am going to have to wire up the dizzy with internal coil. Does anyone have a link to a guide for this? Of can anyone tell me which wires connect to which?

edit:

Would I be able to use my cap from the external coil dizzy on the internal coil dizzy and just ad the sensor conectors? I would think it would be less rewiring.

 

Update:

I found this thread that will help me hook up the sensor and I am going to work on it tomorrow. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1161140

However I still have questions. Will I be able to use an oem cap made for my obd2 dizzy to essentially convert the obd1 dizzy to an external coil? Also I have seen some discussion about injectors plugs and resistors in some other threads but nothing concrete telling me exactly what I need to run for my setup. Curently I am using my original obd 2 injector resistor and injector electrical connectors that came on my wire harness with obd 1 injectors. Do I need to change any of this to get it to run properly?

 

Update: I ran the wires for the sensors and hooked up the internal coil dizzy. The car starts now but it runs really weird. It revs up to 2.5 - 3k, hangs for a second, then goes back down and almost dies, rinse and repeat. It goes through this cycle even when I open the throttle just at a higher rpm. I figure that it is a fuel problem and I looked up the injector resistor pack for 95 vtec and 96si. They are the same part number from Honda so I don't think that it is the problem. Does anyone know how I fix this?

 

possible vaccum leak? is the throttle body closing all the way? any check engine lights? you sure you code the sensors hook up correctly?

 

TB is working properly, no cel, and the sensors that I just hooked up are correct because I checked them 20 times. I will have to check for a vaccum leak when I work on it this weekend but I am sure everything is hooked up.

 

I was able to work on the car after work today and I checked all of my vaccum lines and connections again. Everything is where it is supposed to be and no cel but I am still getting that weird idle. I don't understand how the engine can rev up with the tb closed. If if was getting air from a leak why would it die back down? Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what it might be? I will be getting a new cat this friday and would like to be able to drive it home. I miss it.