Need help with my new swap! Video soon
Got it started!! Ignition coil was bad...started up no problem with no cels and it idles perfect...thanks h-t!
Modified by usdmEHboy at 10:34 PM 2/13/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 10:35 PM 2/13/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 8:50 PM 2/14/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 8:51 PM 2/14/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 3:37 PM 2/15/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 10:34 PM 2/13/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 10:35 PM 2/13/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 8:50 PM 2/14/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 8:51 PM 2/14/2007
Modified by usdmEHboy at 3:37 PM 2/15/2007
1. Check your timing
2. Pull a plug wire and hold it near something medal to see if your getting spark, it might be your ignitor or ignitor coil.
With the clutch, Try bleeding it
2. Pull a plug wire and hold it near something medal to see if your getting spark, it might be your ignitor or ignitor coil.
With the clutch, Try bleeding it
yea fuel pump is priming..i'll check on spark tomorrow
As far as the clutch goes...how do i bleed it?someone said it was the little screw on the slave cylinder that is covered with a rubber cap and i tried that already
As far as the clutch goes...how do i bleed it?someone said it was the little screw on the slave cylinder that is covered with a rubber cap and i tried that already
check if you have spark just hold a spark plug wire close to metal and look for spark. As for the clutch, check the slave cylinder for fluid, before you blead it pump the clutch pedal by hand (push and pull) allot of times maybe up to 50 times or untill you get pressure. if that dosent work then you will have to blead it. hope it works good luck man
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just pump the pedal a bunch of times like i told you. if that doesn't work ithink the bleader screw is by the front of the tranny by the fork.
well its about $50 bucks at a local parts store... You can test to see if its good. I forget the exact number but all you need is a ohm meter and a test light... Someone on here can give you the numbers what the coil should be at... with the test light put it on and see if it lights up if it has constant power you need a new one.
Here is a link
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1430824
My numbers were dead on right but with the test light it was getting constant power and thats what was wrong put the new one in and it fired right up.
Here is a link
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1430824
My numbers were dead on right but with the test light it was getting constant power and thats what was wrong put the new one in and it fired right up.
you sure your firing order is correct? check on that...sounds like you might have your plugs in the wrong firing order...check that then maybe it'll solve your issue...
To bleed the clutch by yourself.
Go to a junkyard and get the longest hose from the windsheild squirters
Unloosen the 8mm bolt on the slave cyclinder
Put one end of the squirter hose on the slave cylinder and the other in the brake resivor( not the larger one but the smaller to the side of it, havin a brain fart).
Hold the hose while pumping the clutch pedal and watch it until all the air bubbles are out of it.
Once they're gone tighten the 8mm bolt and you should be good.
Alil weird doing it at first but it works.
I think its your coil. Just had to change mine today, go figure
Go to a junkyard and get the longest hose from the windsheild squirters
Unloosen the 8mm bolt on the slave cyclinder
Put one end of the squirter hose on the slave cylinder and the other in the brake resivor( not the larger one but the smaller to the side of it, havin a brain fart).
Hold the hose while pumping the clutch pedal and watch it until all the air bubbles are out of it.
Once they're gone tighten the 8mm bolt and you should be good.
Alil weird doing it at first but it works.
I think its your coil. Just had to change mine today, go figure
when you turn the key are you getting any crank at all? are you hearing the engine cranking? if your not even hearing the engine cranking, but do hear fuel pump prime, your batter could be dead, and has just enough power to prime your fuel pump, if you are hearing the engine cranking, but its not firing , it could be
1) Ignition coil, or something wrong with your dizzy
2) main relay.
3) alot of other things so help us out and well help you out.
1) Ignition coil, or something wrong with your dizzy
2) main relay.
3) alot of other things so help us out and well help you out.
I replaced the ignition coil...nothing changed. Tryed to jump start the car to see if the battery was maybe dead..Same thing. How do i check if the main relay still works? also could the dizzy be 180 degrees off? I'm hearing the fuel pump prime and i am getting spark(I put the plug on a bolt and it sparked.
Main Relay:
When you turn the key and you hear the fuel pump prime, you will hear a suddle "click" sound. If you do not hear this the main relay needs to be replaced.
Dizzy Issue:
I highly doubt that the dizzy is 180 off. The prongs on the dizzy should only do in one way. The only way it could be 180 off is if you shoved it in there carelessly.
Spark:
Take a plug out, connect the plug wire to it, and ground it to something. (valve cover w/ a scewdriver will work). You will see the spark easily if you are indeed getting spark. If you dont ground the plug properly, you will not get spark, so try more then one place.
Something I would check:
Under your dash in the drivers side foot well, there is the fuse panel. There is a 15amp fuse in there to the right side of the panel. It almost seperate from the other fuses. It is raised up and they're arnt any other fuses directly next to it. The only fuses remotely close are the SRS fuses.
When you turn the key and you hear the fuel pump prime, you will hear a suddle "click" sound. If you do not hear this the main relay needs to be replaced.
Dizzy Issue:
I highly doubt that the dizzy is 180 off. The prongs on the dizzy should only do in one way. The only way it could be 180 off is if you shoved it in there carelessly.
Spark:
Take a plug out, connect the plug wire to it, and ground it to something. (valve cover w/ a scewdriver will work). You will see the spark easily if you are indeed getting spark. If you dont ground the plug properly, you will not get spark, so try more then one place.
Something I would check:
Under your dash in the drivers side foot well, there is the fuse panel. There is a 15amp fuse in there to the right side of the panel. It almost seperate from the other fuses. It is raised up and they're arnt any other fuses directly next to it. The only fuses remotely close are the SRS fuses.
To bleed your clutch you need to people. One will be pumping the clutch inside the car and the other will be with a I believe 8mm wrench loosening and tightning bleeder nut on the slave cyclinder.
First pump the clutch about 15-20 times and then while holding the clutch unloosen the bleeder nut on the slave cyclinder. Then close it again tight. Then pump again 10-15 times and hold. Keep repeating until you get pressure on the clutch(About 5-10 times). If you don't get pressure on the clutch either A) you're unloosening the wrong nut B) you're fucked
First pump the clutch about 15-20 times and then while holding the clutch unloosen the bleeder nut on the slave cyclinder. Then close it again tight. Then pump again 10-15 times and hold. Keep repeating until you get pressure on the clutch(About 5-10 times). If you don't get pressure on the clutch either A) you're unloosening the wrong nut B) you're fucked
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiamiEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To bleed your clutch you need to people. One will be pumping the clutch inside the car and the other will be with a I believe 8mm wrench loosening and tightning the slave cyclinder.
First pump the clutch about 15-20 times and then while holding the clutch unloosen the nut on the slave cyclinder. Then close it again tight. Then pump again 10-15 times and hold. Keep repeating until you get pressure on the cluth. If you don't get pressure on the clutch either A) you're unloosening the wrong nut B) you're fucked</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. The entire idea behind bleeding the clutch is getting all the air out of the hydrolic lines. I've done this a few times now, and my experience has been very straight forward. Open the bleeder and pump the clutch A LOT. you will have fluid come out so be prepared. As soon as its a steady stream of fluid, close the bleeder and continue pumping the clutch. You SHOULD build pressure.
If nothing happens check the slave cylinder to see if the ball on the slave is lined up correctly with the shift fork. Try pressing the fork to the ball on the slave cylinder and then pumping the clutch. I've seen these fall out of alignment more then once.
First pump the clutch about 15-20 times and then while holding the clutch unloosen the nut on the slave cyclinder. Then close it again tight. Then pump again 10-15 times and hold. Keep repeating until you get pressure on the cluth. If you don't get pressure on the clutch either A) you're unloosening the wrong nut B) you're fucked</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. The entire idea behind bleeding the clutch is getting all the air out of the hydrolic lines. I've done this a few times now, and my experience has been very straight forward. Open the bleeder and pump the clutch A LOT. you will have fluid come out so be prepared. As soon as its a steady stream of fluid, close the bleeder and continue pumping the clutch. You SHOULD build pressure.
If nothing happens check the slave cylinder to see if the ball on the slave is lined up correctly with the shift fork. Try pressing the fork to the ball on the slave cylinder and then pumping the clutch. I've seen these fall out of alignment more then once.


