I'm in the process of MPFI'ing my 90 civic DX. I did the swap and started it up first try but i received errors 4 and 16. I tried replacing the dizzy and the ECU.. still got codes. So I decided to redo all the wiring and everything since it was kinda ehhh. so i redid the wires got everything soldered and lookin good. thought it would work good. started up and still getting 4 and 16.

any help? I need this thing running ASAP and need these woes out of the way.


Modified by blinger at 10:21 AM 2/15/2007

 

morning bump

 

4pm bump

 

bump

 

code 4- crank posistion sensor- its in your distributor the blue/yellow and blue/green wires you hooked up make sure they are in the correct locations

code 16- fuel injectors- either they are bad or not wired corectly, if you used 88-91 civic/crx injectors did you install a risitor box? or if you used 92-up injectors are they all receiving 12 volts?

i hope i helped you in some way!

 

i've checked, and double checked the blue/yellow blue/green wires... I don't remember exactly which pins they are but one went to a C pin and the other one went to a C pin.

fuel injectors I am 99% certain they are hooked up right. the only thing that I think I could have messed up on is a the A3, A7 lines but im almost positive those are correct also.

I installed a resistor box.. I got it from a junkyard tho, but I took 3 of them and I tried all 3... they all gave me the same codes. I was confused on how to hook the resistor box up tho.. does it matter which red wire goes to which injector?

currenty, I have the stock 88-91 injectors in.

 

large yellow/black goes to resistor box and each injector gets a red it doesnt matter which red to which injector

id replace the injectors

 

resistor box is hooked up correctly.

I don't have injectors to replace these ones with. The only ones I have are RC 440's but they aren't ready to go on the setup yet.

The RC 440's will go on once I get the MPFI swap corrected. (turbo build)

 

working on getting a set of injectors from honda-tech

any other suggestions? I need this car moving again, its my daily driver and only mode of transportation

 

night bump

 

bored at work bump :-/

no one has ever had codes 4 and 16?

 

code 4 is your distributor wires. double check your distirbutor wires, try swap the blu/yel and blu/grn. do you have the blu/grm and blu/yel going to c1 and C2 on teh ecu? did you move c1 and c2 to b10 and b12?

code 16. check for power going to the resistor box, then check for power to each injector then do a continuity test between the ecu and the injecotrs.

lets put it this way, you wired something wrong,

 

im going to take a meter home today from work to test all the wiring.

ill try swapping blue/yellow and blue/green .. I've swapped wires by the dizzy before but I think it was the 2 white wires.

Thats what its coming down to tho, something is fucked somewhere in the wiring but I can't find it because everything seems right. I'll run some tests and see if everything is getting power. Also, how do I check for power going to the resistor box? is that the yellow wire?

 

make sure the connection to the ecu is good.. i f'd up my ecu plug when i did mine and the pins werent makeing the proper connection and i got a few codes and ran like crap.

 

how did u fix the problem?

ill be checking all the wires 2morrow with a voltometer

 

well to fix the f'd up plug you can switch the pins to a new one.. or do what i did and just fiddle around with it till it makes complete contact with the ecu.

 

im not sure what i should be testing or what i should be testing for with this multi-meter but with the multi-meter on the 20k setting under OHMs it was coming up with the C1 wire next to the dizzy at 1.62 and the c2 wire at 0.38. That was with the red pin on the wire and the black pin on the negative battery terminal. It doesnt read anything unless it is connected to the negative ternimal on the battery tho.

I tried connecting the black pin to a ground spot but it didnt work.

I also tested the red wires from the resistor box, it wouldn't read ohms because it wasnt connected to the negative battery terminal but measuring in volts it read anywhere from 2-12

 

I tested from the injector to where the injector is spliced into the resistor box.. I had the multimeter on the 20k OHM setting ... there is a 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2m setting.. I wasnt sure which one to use so I put it on 20k

Injector 1, 2, and 3 all read 5.8 or around there ohms... the #4 injector read 0.01.

what next?

 

ok heres what you do next......start posting in only one thread... the end.

 

after retesting everything the correct way... all wiring came back as 0.01 ohms.

I might have found a problem with C1, it was only connected by 2 strands of wire and when i pulled on it, it broke. Now I need to find another pin because the wire was cut to short.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok heres what you do next......start posting in only one thread... the end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why honda-tech sucks^^^ help him if you can..... if not then keep your ****** mouth shut. ********

good luck man, these swaps suck to trouble shoot

 

thanks. I got everything setup correctly now but the dizzy locked up on me so im still throwing code 4. I need to find an 88-91 si Dizzy and im having no luck finding a reasonably priced one.

 

hopefully you get it all figured out so you can throw that turbo on.

p.s. I never recieved that paypal payment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is why honda-tech sucks^^^ help him if you can..... if not then keep your ****** mouth shut. ********

good luck man, these swaps suck to trouble shoot</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm i was helping him.. but he was posting two threads about the same damn thing which wasnt needed at all. and im not an *******