Oil Pressure and Temp Question
I have Autometer electrical oil pressure and temp gauges on my B18C1 with a 24-row Mocal oil cooler setup. Please let me know if the following are normal or if I should be concerned:
-On a cold start, it takes 2-3 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to show any pressure. The dummy oil light stays on for 2-3 seconds as well.
-The temperature sits around 180F during normal driving and only gets above 200F when driving hard or in stop and go traffic. It's Southern California, so it never gets too cold out.
I bought the setup for HPDE use but I still daily drive the car a few times per week.
Thanks.
-On a cold start, it takes 2-3 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to show any pressure. The dummy oil light stays on for 2-3 seconds as well.
-The temperature sits around 180F during normal driving and only gets above 200F when driving hard or in stop and go traffic. It's Southern California, so it never gets too cold out.
I bought the setup for HPDE use but I still daily drive the car a few times per week.
Thanks.
My oil pressure comes up a little bit quicker than that, but I do have a smaller oil cooler. The only time it takes that long is on a complete oil change, where I dump every bit of oil I can get out of the engine and cooler.
as far as temps.. 180 is normal on freeway, 200 in traffic,
250+ when I'm at the end of a hard running track session but it quickly cools down to 210-220 by the end of the cool down lap
as far as temps.. 180 is normal on freeway, 200 in traffic,
250+ when I'm at the end of a hard running track session but it quickly cools down to 210-220 by the end of the cool down lap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you K series guys running for temps?
I'm wondering if I need to get a oil cooler for HPDEs.. . </TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO they are always a good idea, but not needed on all aplications. Go out and run an event report back with the temps. If they are super high change the oil and get the oil coil.
I'm wondering if I need to get a oil cooler for HPDEs.. . </TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO they are always a good idea, but not needed on all aplications. Go out and run an event report back with the temps. If they are super high change the oil and get the oil coil.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you K series guys running for temps? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my H1 car, on a warm day, will stabilize and run about 140-145 deg C. sensor is in the oil pan.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd
my H1 car, on a warm day, will stabilize and run about 140-145 deg C. sensor is in the oil pan.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd
Thats what I'm looking for. Thanks for the info!
145C is 293F = hmm, what temp is reccomended for keeping power when racing?????
For some reason I remember hearing on some Japanese Racing video that when a NSX motor gets over 265 deg it starts to loose power... .
I'm probably not running as hard and as long as you are Todd but I'll eventually get there.. .
Modified by 6spdKEG at 7:36 PM 2/12/2007
145C is 293F = hmm, what temp is reccomended for keeping power when racing?????
For some reason I remember hearing on some Japanese Racing video that when a NSX motor gets over 265 deg it starts to loose power... .
I'm probably not running as hard and as long as you are Todd but I'll eventually get there.. .
Modified by 6spdKEG at 7:36 PM 2/12/2007
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO they are always a good idea, but not needed on all aplications. Go out and run an event report back with the temps. If they are super high change the oil and get the oil coil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My K reaches 200-220 deg (220 max) on long freeway trips (I've noticed freeway speeds warms up the oil hotter than city driving).
But on the high speed Willow Springs track, it reaches a stable 240deg.
Too high? Oil temp read from a sandwich at oil filter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my H1 car, on a warm day, will stabilize and run about 140-145 deg C. sensor is in the oil pan.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd</TD></TR></TABLE>
My oil psi is at 65-75psi....doesn't reach 80psi or 90psi like it used to when I first installed the SW gauges. I'm using the same oil as you... should I consider thicker oil for more oil psi? Especially if oil gets thinner the hotter it gets, and my oil reaches 240 deg on the track.
My K reaches 200-220 deg (220 max) on long freeway trips (I've noticed freeway speeds warms up the oil hotter than city driving).
But on the high speed Willow Springs track, it reaches a stable 240deg.
Too high? Oil temp read from a sandwich at oil filter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my H1 car, on a warm day, will stabilize and run about 140-145 deg C. sensor is in the oil pan.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd</TD></TR></TABLE>
My oil psi is at 65-75psi....doesn't reach 80psi or 90psi like it used to when I first installed the SW gauges. I'm using the same oil as you... should I consider thicker oil for more oil psi? Especially if oil gets thinner the hotter it gets, and my oil reaches 240 deg on the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My K reaches 200-220 deg (220 max) on long freeway trips (I've noticed freeway speeds warms up the oil hotter than city driving).
But on the high speed Willow Springs track, it reaches a stable 240deg.
Too high? Oil temp read from a sandwich at oil filter.
My oil psi is at 65-75psi....doesn't reach 80psi or 90psi like it used to when I first installed the SW gauges. I'm using the same oil as you... should I consider thicker oil for more oil psi? Especially if oil gets thinner the hotter it gets, and my oil reaches 240 deg on the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your 240 deg F is lower than Todd's 145 deg C(293F)
If all the hotter you are getting is 240, you are just fine with what setup you have from what I have researched. When you get fast/beat the crap out of your car more, you might want to look into a oil cooler.
Even though Todd has way more experience than I do & has raced on his K20 for 3 years, I would be running an oil cooler if I was hitting 293F. This is making me consider getting a oil cooler before I buy new tires this year.. . I'd rather have less grip than a spun a rod bearing.
My K reaches 200-220 deg (220 max) on long freeway trips (I've noticed freeway speeds warms up the oil hotter than city driving).
But on the high speed Willow Springs track, it reaches a stable 240deg.
Too high? Oil temp read from a sandwich at oil filter.
My oil psi is at 65-75psi....doesn't reach 80psi or 90psi like it used to when I first installed the SW gauges. I'm using the same oil as you... should I consider thicker oil for more oil psi? Especially if oil gets thinner the hotter it gets, and my oil reaches 240 deg on the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your 240 deg F is lower than Todd's 145 deg C(293F)
If all the hotter you are getting is 240, you are just fine with what setup you have from what I have researched. When you get fast/beat the crap out of your car more, you might want to look into a oil cooler.
Even though Todd has way more experience than I do & has raced on his K20 for 3 years, I would be running an oil cooler if I was hitting 293F. This is making me consider getting a oil cooler before I buy new tires this year.. . I'd rather have less grip than a spun a rod bearing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> This is making me consider getting a oil cooler before I buy new tires this year.. . I'd rather have less grip than a spun a rod bearing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too. I guess it's good I got oil temp vs water temp gauge. Kpro can warn us via MIL when water temp is over a certain temp.
I gotta look into an oil cooler/filter relocator as well, but I wonder if it will throw my temp/psi readings off on the sandwich.
Me too. I guess it's good I got oil temp vs water temp gauge. Kpro can warn us via MIL when water temp is over a certain temp.
I gotta look into an oil cooler/filter relocator as well, but I wonder if it will throw my temp/psi readings off on the sandwich.
It shouldnt throw the readings off much. I mounted the pressure sensor on the filter relocator, a good 5 feet of line away from the back of the block, it reads the same on a digital display. I wouldnt worry.
The 2-3 second delay is just filling the cooler lines. There's oil going through the motor because the pump is running, its just not reading at the idiot light until the oil gets through the cooler and back.
The 2-3 second delay is just filling the cooler lines. There's oil going through the motor because the pump is running, its just not reading at the idiot light until the oil gets through the cooler and back.
I guess another question would be.. .
Oil cooler upgrade vs. Large Dual Core Radiator
Which one would be best to upgrade to?
I currently run a single core 2003 Dodge Neon Radiator. It is more than double the size(WxH) of a D16 single row. One push fan hooked up.
During HPDE I've never scene the temp needle on my stock eg Cluster to ever go past just under 1/2 way.. .
Oil cooler upgrade vs. Large Dual Core Radiator
Which one would be best to upgrade to?
I currently run a single core 2003 Dodge Neon Radiator. It is more than double the size(WxH) of a D16 single row. One push fan hooked up.
During HPDE I've never scene the temp needle on my stock eg Cluster to ever go past just under 1/2 way.. .
hi guys!
the gent above who is only at 240 degrees is reading his oil temp from an adapter plate.
i was told by many many engine guys that the only valid place to read oil temp is in the pan......
just fyi.
and i would agree; i'd love to have my oil temps lower; but, my experiences with hondas tells me that they are OK with higher oil temps; my H1 LS motor pegged the gauge so many times at 170 C i cant tell you...... (that was with no oil cooler). i eventually got a full sized Howe racing radiator for that engine, which had a built in oil cooler (like a NASCAR). no more oil temp probs! but, it never did blow, even with the extreme temps
now, my antique Lotus Super Seven; if the oil temp goes much over 250, i start to have a heart attack...... those engines dont like that, not one bit.
todd
the gent above who is only at 240 degrees is reading his oil temp from an adapter plate.
i was told by many many engine guys that the only valid place to read oil temp is in the pan......
just fyi.
and i would agree; i'd love to have my oil temps lower; but, my experiences with hondas tells me that they are OK with higher oil temps; my H1 LS motor pegged the gauge so many times at 170 C i cant tell you...... (that was with no oil cooler). i eventually got a full sized Howe racing radiator for that engine, which had a built in oil cooler (like a NASCAR). no more oil temp probs! but, it never did blow, even with the extreme temps
now, my antique Lotus Super Seven; if the oil temp goes much over 250, i start to have a heart attack...... those engines dont like that, not one bit.
todd
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi guys!
the gent above who is only at 240 degrees is reading his oil temp from an adapter plate.
i was told by many many engine guys that the only valid place to read oil temp is in the pan......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, it's not the MOST efficient, espeically w/ the sandwich being right after the oil cooler--but it's the next best thing w/o tapping a hole on the oil pan.
At the very least, make sure oil is flowing past the temp, instead of the temp sender sitting at the end of a T--oil won't be circulating enough.
the gent above who is only at 240 degrees is reading his oil temp from an adapter plate.
i was told by many many engine guys that the only valid place to read oil temp is in the pan......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, it's not the MOST efficient, espeically w/ the sandwich being right after the oil cooler--but it's the next best thing w/o tapping a hole on the oil pan.
At the very least, make sure oil is flowing past the temp, instead of the temp sender sitting at the end of a T--oil won't be circulating enough.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my H1 LS motor pegged the gauge so many times at 170 C i cant tell you......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you have me beat there.. I've only seen 315F on my hype-R motor!
I think you have me beat there.. I've only seen 315F on my hype-R motor!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you have me beat there.. I've only seen 315F on my hype-R motor! </TD></TR></TABLE>
geez i woudl think these extreme temps would be so very harmful to the motor!!! i get worried once it hits 240F at the track lol
you guys must have really good oil for it not to break down at those temps. what do you use?
geez i woudl think these extreme temps would be so very harmful to the motor!!! i get worried once it hits 240F at the track lol
you guys must have really good oil for it not to break down at those temps. what do you use?
as far as oil temp, i see 160-190 around town/highway. on track i see about 220. this is with the B&M cooler kit.
my oil pressure takes a couple seconds to come up when i start it cold. but im running a big m1-204 filter on the relocater kit.
castrol 10w40.
pressure from the back of the block, temp from the pan
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 10:33 AM 2/18/2007
my oil pressure takes a couple seconds to come up when i start it cold. but im running a big m1-204 filter on the relocater kit.
castrol 10w40.
pressure from the back of the block, temp from the pan
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 10:33 AM 2/18/2007
i will add the following info:
the oil in my k20 h1 car stays in for two weekends. and it comes out looking very good. it doesnt look "stressed". it looks golden, like honey. i could probably leave it in alot longer!
the oil in my B18A h1 car, before i put in the big rad/oil cooler, was changed every weekend. it looked very stressed; it turned dark very quickly, almost black.
and lastly, 240 degrees is not too high. not by a long shot. my VR6 powered GTI had an oil temp gauge, built in. that car was set up to run warm, for efficency. cruising on the highway, on a warm day was 235 to 240 F. always. and mine wasnt a fluke; all VR6s are set up to run warm oil, like that. and i never had any oil probs with it. that gauge only went to 300F, and that gauge would max out every time i did track days with it. never a prob.
i have always used 5w-30 mobil 1.
i have no idea how high the oil temps get in the Probenstien; it has no oil temp gauges. i expect, pretty high, though! and that motor has over 30k track miles on it. never even had the valve covers off. 5w-30 mobil 1.
todd
the oil in my k20 h1 car stays in for two weekends. and it comes out looking very good. it doesnt look "stressed". it looks golden, like honey. i could probably leave it in alot longer!
the oil in my B18A h1 car, before i put in the big rad/oil cooler, was changed every weekend. it looked very stressed; it turned dark very quickly, almost black.
and lastly, 240 degrees is not too high. not by a long shot. my VR6 powered GTI had an oil temp gauge, built in. that car was set up to run warm, for efficency. cruising on the highway, on a warm day was 235 to 240 F. always. and mine wasnt a fluke; all VR6s are set up to run warm oil, like that. and i never had any oil probs with it. that gauge only went to 300F, and that gauge would max out every time i did track days with it. never a prob.
i have always used 5w-30 mobil 1.
i have no idea how high the oil temps get in the Probenstien; it has no oil temp gauges. i expect, pretty high, though! and that motor has over 30k track miles on it. never even had the valve covers off. 5w-30 mobil 1.
todd
more questions here.
What Oil Filter is reccomended for our K20s then?
I hear some are the same, some are different, F20 allows more flow but I wanna know what is the best for the K20?
Best for the B series?
good place to have oil sample sent out???
Anyone used these guys? http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
__________________________________________________ _______________
I have just been running stock OEM K20 HONDA filter
I ran a K&N once and then read about them and took it off.. .
What Oil Filter is reccomended for our K20s then?
I hear some are the same, some are different, F20 allows more flow but I wanna know what is the best for the K20?
Best for the B series?
good place to have oil sample sent out???
Anyone used these guys? http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
__________________________________________________ _______________
I have just been running stock OEM K20 HONDA filter
I ran a K&N once and then read about them and took it off.. .
i remember a while pack there was a diff between the 15400-PLM-A01 vs -A02 filters, each made by fram, filtech, or toyo roki...but I forget which is which was supposedly was the better OEM filter.
I have been using the A01s since I got a bunch of them a while back and they are made by filtech.
I guess now that I have an oil sandwich adaptor, I can try a different oil filter and test out the oil psi differences.
I've considered the S2k filters figuring they rev to 9k (AP1 at least) but I read a bigger volume filter (i.e. s2k filters) will cause a drop in oil pressure....
I have been using the A01s since I got a bunch of them a while back and they are made by filtech.
I guess now that I have an oil sandwich adaptor, I can try a different oil filter and test out the oil psi differences.
I've considered the S2k filters figuring they rev to 9k (AP1 at least) but I read a bigger volume filter (i.e. s2k filters) will cause a drop in oil pressure....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my H1 car, on a warm day, will stabilize and run about 140-145 deg C. sensor is in the oil pan.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there anything besides changing the oil pump that can hlep boost oil pressure? My hot oil at 240degrees, oil pressure stays at 60psi and of course drops in the corners. I set a warning light at 50psi...what psi is a dangerous psi to reach in a corner? (oil starvation?)
The warning light at 50psi flashes almost every corner.
Stock oil pan, M1 5W-30 oil, I've thought of trying thicker oil but some say anything other than stock weight isn't needed.
oil pressure stays at 75+ psi, at all times, when over 4k rpm.
i have done 3 years racing, on this same motor. i run 5w-30 mobil 1 oil. oem stock oil cooler/warmer.
hope that helps!
todd</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there anything besides changing the oil pump that can hlep boost oil pressure? My hot oil at 240degrees, oil pressure stays at 60psi and of course drops in the corners. I set a warning light at 50psi...what psi is a dangerous psi to reach in a corner? (oil starvation?)
The warning light at 50psi flashes almost every corner.
Stock oil pan, M1 5W-30 oil, I've thought of trying thicker oil but some say anything other than stock weight isn't needed.
hi!
the oil pump, the relief spring, the oil viscosity, and the state of the engines bearings determines your oil pressure.
the rule of thumb i was given was always "10 psi pressure for every 1000 rpm".
i forgot to add that i always overfill by almost a full quart. it helps with the oil starvation thing, alot.
todd
the oil pump, the relief spring, the oil viscosity, and the state of the engines bearings determines your oil pressure.
the rule of thumb i was given was always "10 psi pressure for every 1000 rpm".
i forgot to add that i always overfill by almost a full quart. it helps with the oil starvation thing, alot.
todd


