I recently turboed my integra and now know what torque steer is. What causes it, and what do I need to do to correct the problem? I searched for torque steer on here, but was only able to find one topic and it wasn't really what I was looking for. Any help would be great, thanks.

 

Torque Steer is scimilar to driving a car that has one wheel peel in the rear end. Simply put, you have one wheel that is in control of putting power to the road. So, when you hit boost, all that power is going to that one drive wheel. The rubber tries to bite for traction and some of that force moves all the way up into the steering wheel.

To help with this problem you need to look into:
Transmission with an LSD (Two drive wheels instead of one)
Traction Bar (As the wheel puts power to the pavement, the front suspension bends and flexes and causes all kinds of things to happen)
Better tires
Better front suspension
Better front bushings
Alignment settings

 

Is an LSD something that I can put on my existing LS tranny?

 

Limited Slip Differential is what lsd stands for yea it is some of them cost a pretty penny but you could go with something like a phantom grip or a obx they are cheap and work well

 

Cool man, thanks.

 

you dont need lsd.

i know what your talking about man and any turbo guy knows what your talking about. all of us non lsd guys experience it when we first turbo.

lsd will fix it but thats a really expensive way to do it... all you really need is traction bars.... what actually happend is that your making enough power to bend your lower control arms foward (not together) this causes your car to steer.

all you need is traction bars.
look into traction bars. they actually arent that hard to make. or you can buy some for like 200-300$ which is a lot of money but its a lot cheaper than 1000-3000$ for the LSD you get.


If you get both traction bars and LSD then youll be golden... im currently running a gsr tranny with a stock lsd on my turbo b20 in my 1994 teg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LordAphotic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> they actually arent that hard to make. or you can buy some for like 200-300$ which is a lot of money but its a lot cheaper than 1000-3000$ for the LSD you get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yikes, I hope that's the cost included to install it, cause that would be a pricey lsd.

Or you could even just buy a new/used type-r tranny for less, or around the same.

 

lsd are not that expensive cusco and kaaz or top of the line ones like quaife are 800 and up but you can get a cheaper one like a phantom grip for $300 or a obx for like 500 they help when your turning to unlike a traction bar would and on my 2nd turbo honda so im not new to turbo hondas but if your into to peg leg burn outs do your thing playboy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yikes, I hope that's the cost included to install it, cause that would be a pricey lsd.

Or you could even just buy a new/used type-r tranny for less, or around the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i estimated the labor too cause most people on honda tech are too scared to open up their trannies. and i mean if he didnt know what lsd ment.... you think he could install one?

but you reminded me of yet another option... buying a tranny... jdm gsr trannys with lsd go for 900. thats what you want if you want lsd.
the type r tranny on your ls would not be a good idea at all with the power band and turbo you have.... you would be doing absolutely nothing but burning out and you would be in boost a lot cause of higher revs.... trust me on that. i speak from experience.... its a wonderful tranny if you can rev higher but ls and b20s dont work that way they need longer gears than that. especially with a turbo. the gsr tranny is only a lil bit shorter than the ls tranny. making it just perfect and if you get lsd it will be a perfect lil pakage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LordAphotic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need lsd.

i know what your talking about man and any turbo guy knows what your talking about. all of us non lsd guys experience it when we first turbo.

lsd will fix it but thats a really expensive way to do it... all you really need is traction bars.... what actually happend is that your making enough power to bend your lower control arms foward (not together) this causes your car to steer.

all you need is traction bars.
look into traction bars. they actually arent that hard to make. or you can buy some for like 200-300$ which is a lot of money but its a lot cheaper than 1000-3000$ for the LSD you get.


If you get both traction bars and LSD then youll be golden... im currently running a gsr tranny with a stock lsd on my turbo b20 in my 1994 teg.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is one serious contradicting mess here. Which is it? LSD's are pointless, or he's golden if he gets one?

My Type-R was 500whp and boosted to Kingdom Come. I think I have an idea of what I'm talking about where-as it seems obvious that you cannot make up your mind.

I still stick with my original recommendations on what the OP should consider.

A traction bar will keep the suspension geometry from changing but it will not give him power to both tires. That is the first critical step in fixing torque steer. To be completely frank, having a moderately boosted or significantly boosted car with out the power going to two wheels is a recipe for disaster. I don't care how well of a driver you think you are.

 

get the lsd and a good set of tires and be done for now unless you are making 500 hp like the other guy save your money for something else get the traction bars down the road