Number 25 - strut fork bolt. I don't want to snap it.

 

really tight really doubt you'll snap it but i never snaped mine

 

I've snapped a lot of bolts. I did the FL strut friday and while I was torqueing this, it never "stopped." It was tight but I could have kept going. I'd rather do it right and use my torque wrench.

 

Yeah, you should use a torque wrench and properly tighten the bolt. Over tightening it could cause it to snap. But if you dont tighten it with a torque wrench and you really want some extra protection from it not coming off due to vibration of the car, just add a little of Lock-Tite. That should seal it up and keep it there.

 

I don't need advice, I just need a spec. Does anyone have a manual?

 

32 ft/lbs of torque. i jus shoot it on with a gun just like i do with my wheels... but then again... i worked on cars long enough to know what really i should do into spec and what not.. cause the certain air guns and tools i have..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itz Darave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">32 ft/lbs of torque. i jus shoot it on with a gun just like i do with my wheels... but then again... i worked on cars long enough to know what really i should do into spec and what not.. cause the certain air guns and tools i have.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but i wouldn't trust an air gun, even with a torque stick.

if you work on car long enough you know they are not accurate.

plus honda's wheels stud needs to be hand tighen so the wheel sits center, most ghetto mechanic just blast then in one by one and ended up stripping, breaking studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry but i wouldn't trust an air gun, even with a torque stick.

if you work on car long enough you know they are not accurate.

plus honda's wheels stud needs to be hand tighen so the wheel sits center, most ghetto mechanic just blast then in one by one and ended up stripping, breaking studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess its all boils down to the tech. 99% of cars that have steel wheel, I just zap em on with my gun and torque stick. If the car has alloy wheels i'll snug the bolts up with my gun, and use my torque wrench and hand torque it. Hasent been a problem for me personally, but some guys at the shop just bang them on like its an axel nut. I guess thats why its so important to know whos working on your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Itz Darave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">32 ft/lbs of torque. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, I probably torqued the first one to 110

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry but i wouldn't trust an air gun, even with a torque stick.

if you work on car long enough you know they are not accurate.

plus honda's wheels stud needs to be hand tighen so the wheel sits center, most ghetto mechanic just blast then in one by one and ended up stripping, breaking studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Most smart mechanics would know not to zip the lug nuts straight on... and if you know your guns and sockets.. u wouldnt have a problem..

impact guns have differnt settings ya know that??? and then u can go back and check and torque them down to spec even..