Just bought a used O/A cutiing torch. How to use it !
Im taking a welding/cutting class in March but i just bought a cutting torch set. What are the basics to know how to use this safely and correctly?
Just a few pointers:
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit), light it, and then bring your oxygen in slowly. After you get used to it, you can mix them before hand and then light it, it just make sa big bang and fires up big time...but keeps the black floaties off the cieling!
2. Run your acetelyne around 7-10 psi, and your oxygen around 30-40 psi. (EVERYONE will have a different setting...this is just a baseline).
3. If you ever hear a whistling, turn your acetelyne off ASAP. The flame is traveling up into the torch and is on its way to the 100 lbs bomb sitting at the other end of the lines! Or better yet, buy some backcaps that go on the ends of the hoses to prevent a burnback into the lines.
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
5. Dont touch the tip to the metal as your likely to make it pop and putthe flame out. And if cutting a straight line, lay the torch slightly at an angle in the direction you are cutting, and move accordingly.
6. Lastly, just a simple thing that took me forever to figure out...if your cutting, and as your moving along, the molten metal is coming back together right behind your torch(where you just cut), your moving to slowly...pick up the pace a little bit.
Also...DONT BLOW YOURSELF UP! GOOD LUCK!
Kyle
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit), light it, and then bring your oxygen in slowly. After you get used to it, you can mix them before hand and then light it, it just make sa big bang and fires up big time...but keeps the black floaties off the cieling!

2. Run your acetelyne around 7-10 psi, and your oxygen around 30-40 psi. (EVERYONE will have a different setting...this is just a baseline).
3. If you ever hear a whistling, turn your acetelyne off ASAP. The flame is traveling up into the torch and is on its way to the 100 lbs bomb sitting at the other end of the lines! Or better yet, buy some backcaps that go on the ends of the hoses to prevent a burnback into the lines.
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
5. Dont touch the tip to the metal as your likely to make it pop and putthe flame out. And if cutting a straight line, lay the torch slightly at an angle in the direction you are cutting, and move accordingly.
6. Lastly, just a simple thing that took me forever to figure out...if your cutting, and as your moving along, the molten metal is coming back together right behind your torch(where you just cut), your moving to slowly...pick up the pace a little bit.
Also...DONT BLOW YOURSELF UP! GOOD LUCK!

Kyle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a few pointers:
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit), light it, and then bring your oxygen in slowly. After you get used to it, you can mix them before hand and then light it, it just make sa big bang and fires up big time...but keeps the black floaties off the cieling!
2. Run your acetelyne around 7-10 psi, and your oxygen around 30-40 psi. (EVERYONE will have a different setting...this is just a baseline).
3. If you ever hear a whistling, turn your acetelyne off ASAP. The flame is traveling up into the torch and is on its way to the 100 lbs bomb sitting at the other end of the lines! Or better yet, buy some backcaps that go on the ends of the hoses to prevent a burnback into the lines.
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
5. Dont touch the tip to the metal as your likely to make it pop and putthe flame out. And if cutting a straight line, lay the torch slightly at an angle in the direction you are cutting, and move accordingly.
6. Lastly, just a simple thing that took me forever to figure out...if your cutting, and as your moving along, the molten metal is coming back together right behind your torch(where you just cut), your moving to slowly...pick up the pace a little bit.
Also...DONT BLOW YOURSELF UP! GOOD LUCK!
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
great directions thanks
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit), light it, and then bring your oxygen in slowly. After you get used to it, you can mix them before hand and then light it, it just make sa big bang and fires up big time...but keeps the black floaties off the cieling!

2. Run your acetelyne around 7-10 psi, and your oxygen around 30-40 psi. (EVERYONE will have a different setting...this is just a baseline).
3. If you ever hear a whistling, turn your acetelyne off ASAP. The flame is traveling up into the torch and is on its way to the 100 lbs bomb sitting at the other end of the lines! Or better yet, buy some backcaps that go on the ends of the hoses to prevent a burnback into the lines.
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
5. Dont touch the tip to the metal as your likely to make it pop and putthe flame out. And if cutting a straight line, lay the torch slightly at an angle in the direction you are cutting, and move accordingly.
6. Lastly, just a simple thing that took me forever to figure out...if your cutting, and as your moving along, the molten metal is coming back together right behind your torch(where you just cut), your moving to slowly...pick up the pace a little bit.
Also...DONT BLOW YOURSELF UP! GOOD LUCK!

Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
great directions thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a few pointers:
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
The neutral flame (or blue flame like he said) should be set when the cutting handle is pushed down all the way before attempting to cut. When you mix your gases for cutting push the cutting lever down all the way and then mix it.
4. For cutting itself, once you start bringing your oxygen in, youll want a real fine crisp point in the blue flame area, about .5-1" outside the end of the torch head. Heat your metal up, and once it goes to the molten stage, push down on the oxygen handle and youll see it blwoning the molten metal away.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
The neutral flame (or blue flame like he said) should be set when the cutting handle is pushed down all the way before attempting to cut. When you mix your gases for cutting push the cutting lever down all the way and then mix it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOFU.man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The neutral flame (or blue flame like he said) should be set when the cutting handle is pushed down all the way before attempting to cut. When you mix your gases for cutting push the cutting lever down all the way and then mix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldnt have done that unless you pointed that out thanks
The neutral flame (or blue flame like he said) should be set when the cutting handle is pushed down all the way before attempting to cut. When you mix your gases for cutting push the cutting lever down all the way and then mix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldnt have done that unless you pointed that out thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a few pointers:
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit)...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you bring this up, which color hose is it, I can never remember.
1. ALWAYS turn Acetelyne on first(just a little bit)...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you bring this up, which color hose is it, I can never remember.
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Red is acetelyne, green is oxygen. The end of the torch near the hose ends should say. And remember, acetelyne components are all left hand thread! 
Kyle

Kyle
Your best bet is to keep the acetylene tank valve open 1-2 turns, so if you do ever have a "flashback" you can quickly turn your Acetylene off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DEFINITELY invest in some flashback arrestors. They aren't very expensive and can save your ***.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dido, I have a set on the end of my hoses and Also if you have a Smith system like I do the torch has a check valve built right in the handle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dido, I have a set on the end of my hoses and Also if you have a Smith system like I do the torch has a check valve built right in the handle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After you get used to it, you can mix them before hand and then light it, it just make sa big bang and fires up big time...but keeps the black floaties off the cieling! 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate those floaties.. i crack the oxygen very slightly and then do the acetylene and light.. if you bearly have the oxygen on it will start without the bang and without the floaties

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate those floaties.. i crack the oxygen very slightly and then do the acetylene and light.. if you bearly have the oxygen on it will start without the bang and without the floaties
5/20psi 5 for acy, 20 oxygen.
Turn acy tank on 1/4 turn, oxygen on full, reason for acy tank 1/4 to turn off faster, turn acy **** on torch on 1/4 turn.. Light flame (it will be bring red and smokey a bit) then slowly add oxygen to the flame untill the envelope disapears, this is your cutting flame
Turn acy tank on 1/4 turn, oxygen on full, reason for acy tank 1/4 to turn off faster, turn acy **** on torch on 1/4 turn.. Light flame (it will be bring red and smokey a bit) then slowly add oxygen to the flame untill the envelope disapears, this is your cutting flame
no.. but you use less oxygen..
I normally get it going and have a inch or two long tail, make sure its not hissing or anything.. you dont want it hot enough to melt the metal.
I normally get it going and have a inch or two long tail, make sure its not hissing or anything.. you dont want it hot enough to melt the metal.
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