Alright so it seems to me like there are alot of people here running B20 setups. I just wanted to see how many people really are. Post up your B20 setup, including car, any time slips, dyno slips, or build details. Pictures are always great too.

 

Damn, it would be nice if there was more info here.

Anyways, I used to run a '92 DX hatch, B20B block, B16A2 head, B16A2 tranny. Running on 14" steelies, intake and header only, I ran a 14.4...

 

yeah no one really has b20s they just say they do in other forums

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah no one really has b20s they just say they do in other forums
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I wish i had a b20 vtec set up if that helps you any. Haha. Yea, these little threads are awesome. Do you know how to do a b20 vtec set up? If so PM me cus i need to know ASAP cus i can get a hold of a b20b block for 100 bucks and i have a b16 so i would just swap out the blocks.

 

What do you need to know about them? They aren't too difficult to do, however its not quite just a block swap either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you need to know about them? They aren't too difficult to do, however its not quite just a block swap either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh trust me I already know it's not that simple. I'm not sure my question is how to do it but just the better parts to use. Cus i still wanna be able to rev to 8200 rpms. I've had my share of b-series motors just never thought about actually doing a b20 or ls vtec set up. But now i am. So basically, how to do it properly.


By the way. Thanks for the respinse

 

If you want to rev the motor to the B16a redline, I highly recommend you install a crank girdle on the block. Z10 engineering makes one and I am sure there are others available. With the Z10, you'll also need to run a GSR Oil Pickup as well as the GSR Oil Pan. Take the block with the girdle to a machine shop and have them line bore the crank journals. We also put eagle rods and JE pistons into our setup, we found some used for a cheap price. Replace all the crank and rod bearings and you should have a very solid bottom end.

Next was the actual modifcation part, tapping and plugging the head, hogging out the alignment holes in the block (use a 14mm drill bit, which are hard to find. We may have used a 9/16 which was pretty close, about 0.01" over), then running the external oil line. We used all OEM parts and gaskets from then on. This motor has been put through its paces and is a very stout motor. No need to go all out with fancy parts, but the 1 part I highly recommend is the crank girdle. (All B-series VTEC engines 92+ have a crank girdle, I dont think its a coincidence).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to rev the motor to the B16a redline, I highly recommend you install a crank girdle on the block. Z10 engineering makes one and I am sure there are others available. With the Z10, you'll also need to run a GSR Oil Pickup as well as the GSR Oil Pan. Take the block with the girdle to a machine shop and have them line bore the crank journals. We also put eagle rods and JE pistons into our setup, we found some used for a cheap price. Replace all the crank and rod bearings and you should have a very solid bottom end.

Next was the actual modifcation part, tapping and plugging the head, hogging out the alignment holes in the block (use a 14mm drill bit, which are hard to find. We may have used a 9/16 which was pretty close, about 0.01" over), then running the external oil line. We used all OEM parts and gaskets from then on. This motor has been put through its paces and is a very stout motor. No need to go all out with fancy parts, but the 1 part I highly recommend is the crank girdle. (All B-series VTEC engines 92+ have a crank girdle, I dont think its a coincidence).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Easy enough lol. Well I'm either doing b20 or ls. I'll let you all know when i start the build and I'm making a thread on it. So check it out when it's up.

Thanks for the info.

 

If i just replaced the ls rod bolts with ARP bolts and got s2s2 cams and gears I/H/E and valve components, could i rev to 8k ok or is the girdle an absolute must for the ls block?

 

I'll hardly rev it that high anyway. But just for those special ocassions where i need to. I'm trying to keep in mind this is not a racecar. This is for my daily driver with some extra tourque.

 

wow good thing i caught this thread when i did because the sharing of misinformation is getting out of hand very quickly.

1. All 92+ vtec engines have a crank girdle?

O really that must mean ever b16 i have ever had is just missing the girdle. weird

2. You need a crank girdle for a b20 vtec?

No you dont

Here is what you want to do for a solid B20 block.

If you would like to keep the stock pistons and rods:

Replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts.
ARP head studs
You need a vtec oil pump (all 96+ vtec oil pumps are the same, Yes even the ITR pump)
B16 water pump
Get your rods notched for GSR bearings
GSR bearings will be in order LS bearings will not hold up trust me I tried.
A block gaurd (spend the money and have a machine shop put it in.)
LS/vtec conversion kit (works the same on the B20)
Any vtec head you want.
A chipped p28 is a great ecu to use and make sure your motor is tunned properly no ebay chip ****. Bad tune on a b20 will mean a short lifespan.
OBD I conversion harness.

If you want to be a gangster sleeve the block throw some high compression pistons in there and rods and make everyone one else eat ****. I have a built a couple b20 (due to trial and error) and my current setup makes 220whp and 156lbs tq. (should make way more here in about a week as i go back in for a retune) all motor. Good luck and slurp stop posting who built your b20?

 

Many people have gotten away with it. You need to remember that it's nothing in the head that prevents you from revving that high. The head and valvetrain is already made to rev that high. It's the block that is different, neither the LS nor the CRV redline as high as the Civic Si, Integra GSR, or Integra TypeR.

Coincidentally, the VTEC motors have a girdle and also a shorter stroke. It's the longer stroke of the B20 or LS block coupled with the lack of the reinforcement of the girdle that may cause the crank caps to flex under load at higher RPM's. I dont have any concrete evidence of premature engine failure resulting from this but I have to suspect it is, at the very least, wearing on the bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow good thing i caught this thread when i did because the sharing of misinformation is getting out of hand very quickly.

1. All 92+ vtec engines have a crank girdle?

O really that must mean ever b16 i have ever had is just missing the girdle. weird
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was of the opinion that the 88-91 B16's (1st gen) did not have a crank girdle, but B16's that were '92 or newer came with them stock. Am I incorrect?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. You need a crank girdle for a b20 vtec?

No you dont
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You are correct, and dont be fooled into thinking that I stated it as fact. I recommend them, though people have had good luck without them. After the beating our motor took and they way it still runs the way it does, I'm sold. Personal Preference. Keep in mind that the B16a has a 12mm shorter stroke than a B18/B20

 

Yeah I understand were you are comming from however, most early failures with b20s have issues with cylinder walls flexing due to their monostep casting desing. That is why a block guard is a good idea. Also the sleeves tend to fail with detionation that is why a tune is a must on a b20.

 

Well now after reading the actual meaning of this post, I was a little off topic. You want us to post our set ups and I don't have one....yet

 

its all good it would be a good a idea to put b20 info in a b20 thread. so just ask if you have a question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I understand were you are comming from however, most early failures with b20s have issues with cylinder walls flexing due to their monostep casting desing. That is why a block guard is a good idea. Also the sleeves tend to fail with detionation that is why a tune is a must on a b20. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hah, it's cool man. Most people arent interested in talking about it anyways. They want the quick and dirty to get from point A to point B.

You started talking about the cylinder walls flexing. Typically this is something I've only seen on boosted motors. You agree with that?

 

After doing some research I've noticed ls blocks are stronger than b20 blocks. If i were to take a b20 block, put the block gaurd on it, use eagle rods with ARP rod bolts, And Je pistons, would the b20 rev to 8k to 8500 safely or will this be an issue. Cause if b20's aren't good for 8500 on stock sleeves then i may have second thoughts about this.

 

Wow...a whole 3 people have posted in here. Come on people, i thought everyone had a b20 vtec. Let's see your set ups! I hope this thread actually goes somewhere cus i can't find anything on b20 vtecs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hah, it's cool man. Most people arent interested in talking about it anyways. They want the quick and dirty to get from point A to point B.

You started talking about the cylinder walls flexing. Typically this is something I've only seen on boosted motors. You agree with that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i see how that could be true. However I detonated the **** out of my last b20 and cracked every cylinder. Thats what 89 octane will do to a 13:1 compression motor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic*B16A3*Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After doing some research I've noticed ls blocks are stronger than b20 blocks. If i were to take a b20 block, put the block gaurd on it, use eagle rods with ARP rod bolts, And Je pistons, would the b20 rev to 8k to 8500 safely or will this be an issue. Cause if b20's aren't good for 8500 on stock sleeves then i may have second thoughts about this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the Ls block is stronger and it has low compression stock so if you wanted to boost you easily could. If you already have a b20 though like I did the block guard and a good tune will easily get you to 8500+ RPMs. Remember these few things though:

1. ARP rod bolts for an LSV or B20V
2. Block guard only needed for a B20V
3. GSR Bearings LSV or B20V you will need to modify the rod, but this will help alot with the life of the motor.
4. Vtec conversion kit for either block
5. Tune.. Tune.. Tune.. A must for both setups.
6. Run premium fuel is always a good idea.

 

i dont know much about the ls or b20 swap but i have almost everything to do both i have two b16a2 heads and a b20 and a ls block i want to boos the engine to about 7 lbs everyday driving and 10 for special occasions my friend has a vett so i want to show him what honda is all about so can anyone help me wich one should i go for in car i have a civic hatch 95 thanks

 

also forgot to add were can i get most of the parts i need a place that wont put a bigger hole in my wallet if is not much to ask i a spc in the army so i have a budget probably smaller than someone that works a MCdonals so i thank you all for any help thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l_valdes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know much about the ls or b20 swap but i have almost everything to do both i have two b16a2 heads and a b20 and a ls block i want to boos the engine to about 7 lbs everyday driving and 10 for special occasions my friend has a vett so i want to show him what honda is all about so can anyone help me wich one should i go for in car i have a civic hatch 95 thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not having much to say about the non-vtec blocks, I do know that Ls motors LOVE boost. I would go with Ls/vtec. Bore it to 84mm. If I'm correct thats basically what a b20 is. A bored b18b. I've also heard the ls block is stronger than the b20. Ls/vtec is what I think you should do.

 

Let me ask a few questions.

I'm currently doing a B20 build. I have a fully built LS head that I want to swap in. It has crower 404s, crower valvetrain, crower cam gears, ported/polished. The only thing it doesn't have is oversize/replacement valves in it.

I'm wanting to put this head on the B20. I'm also going to put ARP Headstuds when I do put the LS head on the B20. Anyone know what a safe redline for me would be? Just the stock LS redline?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGRacersInc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me ask a few questions.

I'm currently doing a B20 build. I have a fully built LS head that I want to swap in. It has crower 404s, crower valvetrain, crower cam gears, ported/polished. The only thing it doesn't have is oversize/replacement valves in it.

I'm wanting to put this head on the B20. I'm also going to put ARP Headstuds when I do put the LS head on the B20. Anyone know what a safe redline for me would be? Just the stock LS redline?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rev to where ever you make power. I don't have much experience with non vtec motors. Like the man above said. I block guard on the b20 would also help with revving high. But I don't really know about those motors. I'm currently doing a b20 vtec set up so you're kind in the same boat as me. I'm worried about where I can rev to as well. So good luck with whatever you do