Hi Guys. some of you may or may not remember i posted a dyno chart months ago that i was not happy with it. i had always said it was the tuner that had done a bad job. so i researched and got into tuning the car myself. i bought an Innovate LM-1 Digital airflow meter and a Bosch wideband and RPM converter(LMA-2). between yesterday and today i did a fair bit of tuning to try and get a base map i could bring to the dyno. Just to clarify, i made sure the wideband was calibrated correctly.i tested it against a reading my car had in an emmissions test at 2,000 rpm,and it matched perfectly.

Car is 1994 EG6 SiRII JDM
b16a
skunk2 stage 1 cams
5Zigen 4-2-1 Header
5Zigen de-cat pipe (test pipe)
standard air box with HKS drop in filter and a cold air feed into the box.

So Here they are. they are just screen shots of them on my computer.

This is the chart i got from the Tuners attempt at a fuel map.



And this is what i think is a nice base to bring to the dyno.



I think its pretty ok. i put some markers in just to make it easier to find the rpms for you. i know its a little lean in the low revs. its a little rich at vtec Xover point which is 5,800,but nohting a little fine tune wont sort out.

 

the bottom log looks ok just try and get a 14.7 afr at cruze and and then 13.5 or so in higher or at wot

 

If this is your first time you did really good for a basemap. Since your motor is basically stock i think youll be fine tuning it yourself to 12.5-13.1 a/f in full throttle and a 14.7 at partial. If you want more power then take it to the dyno and have a little cam timing done, but you did a great job. What EMS are you using?

 

yeah,the bottom log is the one i done myself. the top one is what i got using the tuners chip. its terrible. yeah,in 5the gear at 3000 its like 14.9-15.0 getting nice fuel consuption with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If this is your first time you did really good for a basemap. Since your motor is basically stock i think youll be fine tuning it yourself to 12.5-13.1 a/f in full throttle and a 14.7 at partial. If you want more power then take it to the dyno and have a little cam timing done, but you did a great job. What EMS are you using? </TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah,this is my very fist time,thanks man. i did alot of research before i attempted to go near it so id know exactly what id be aiming for. i have a set of skunk2 cam pulleys on the way. then its onto the dyno. cant wait. sorry,but whats EMS??

 

i should have mentioned this earlier. the chart was recorded in fourth gear on a straight level road at WOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i should have mentioned this earlier. the chart was recorded in fourth gear on a straight level road at WOT. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats fine. I perfer using the highest gear i can that allows for a safe speed. Sometimes its 3rd sometimes its 4th but as long as you get no crazy wheel sping or to high of revs then your ok.

 

yeah,the speedo was full by the end of fourth and i was running out of road. very happy with it tho. what is EMS you were referring to?

 

EMS - Engine management system. What you used to tune.

 

aaahhh EMS,so obvious its a chipped p30 tuned with crome free. the tuner i went to used hondata s100 chip,but i got rid of it. is his chart(the first one) as bad as i think it is?? he's in the low 11's...thats like turbo AFRs right??

 

11's is for anything over 11psi try and get it to atleast 13.5 in WOT good job crome's the s#it.

 

that just proves how much of a retard he is. running turbo afrs on an N/A engine. yeah, i plan on making three maps,on at about 13,one at 13.5 and one at 12.5 then ill bring the three maps to the dyno and see how they perform.

indeed,crome is the proverbial ****. i dont think i ned to invest in crome pro as im only doing N/A tuning. and im not real time tuning,just pulling the chip in and out of the ZIF socket. its a bit annoying,but its not the end of the wordl.

 

pulling the rom out and burning over and over gets very annoying thats why you buy an ostrich that way you only need to upload your .bin and make changes until you acheive that perfect af # and then make all your final changes and save the .bin and burn once and for all. good job though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FaceTuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pulling the rom out and burning over and over gets very annoying thats why you buy an ostrich that way you only need to upload your .bin and make changes until you acheive that perfect af # and then make all your final changes and save the .bin and burn once and for all. good job though</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah,i was thinking about gettin the ostrich, but ive spent so much on the other stuff,i wanna have some money left to buy dyno time. it is pretty annoying,but with the ZIF socket,its not that bad. thanks again for all the comments. pretty proud of myself.