Car shakes when accelarate
When im cruising its fine, when im in rolling in nuetral im fine too. But when im accelarating hard at about 40-70mph the car shakes.
What can this be. I was thinking axles, but I havnt messed with them, and they dont click when I turn.
Then I was thinking it could be my alignment, since my car is lowered, but
it only does it when I accelarate. I just dont know.
What can this be. I was thinking axles, but I havnt messed with them, and they dont click when I turn.
Then I was thinking it could be my alignment, since my car is lowered, but
it only does it when I accelarate. I just dont know.
check the upper ball joint, when they are going south, they make the car waggle on rapid accleration.
but if you havent gotten an alignment then that probably contributed a bit to the unstableiness, you know what i mean when you driven a rear toe out before, it's like the car just want to crush into a wall with hatred
but if you havent gotten an alignment then that probably contributed a bit to the unstableiness, you know what i mean when you driven a rear toe out before, it's like the car just want to crush into a wall with hatred
well im abouts to change the front upper ball joints any ways with a camber one.
But its just weird how it does that, and why would it be my distributor, I really dont
get taht one.
But its just weird how it does that, and why would it be my distributor, I really dont
get taht one.
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=393
my civic had some distrubutor problems and it caused my car to shake while accelerating...cheap fix
my civic had some distrubutor problems and it caused my car to shake while accelerating...cheap fix
axles, if you don't fix it soon you're going to end up replacing wheel bearings as well.
My car started shaking on acceleration a while back, I eventually messed with the axles, I moved my driver side axle around and it didn't shake for a couple days, then it came back, I ended up just dealing with it for a month (very bad idea) because I didn't have the money to replace it, I eventually studied up on the replacment and replaced both axles myself, the acceleration vibration went away but the vibration seemed to have done somthing to one of my wheel bearings, because I started getting vibration CONSTANTLY, so I bought new wheel bearings and replaced them.
Over-all, I spent about $60-80 per axle, and $140 per wheel bearing replacment (including having them pressed)
My car started shaking on acceleration a while back, I eventually messed with the axles, I moved my driver side axle around and it didn't shake for a couple days, then it came back, I ended up just dealing with it for a month (very bad idea) because I didn't have the money to replace it, I eventually studied up on the replacment and replaced both axles myself, the acceleration vibration went away but the vibration seemed to have done somthing to one of my wheel bearings, because I started getting vibration CONSTANTLY, so I bought new wheel bearings and replaced them.
Over-all, I spent about $60-80 per axle, and $140 per wheel bearing replacment (including having them pressed)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Inner CV joints
Happens all the time on lowered 79 Accords</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
U always do that...
Happens all the time on lowered 79 Accords</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
U always do that...
Most likely a combination of all of the suggestions you've been given thus far.
For me it started when I replaced my axles. It threw my alignment out of whack enough to make it not fun to drive the car at all. When I put my new upper ball joints in I did an alignment immediately following it and it helped greatly.
Unfortunately my rear toe can't be adjusted due to rust so I still experience a small shimmy (only in 2nd gear amazingly) and other than that it's just fine.
For me it started when I replaced my axles. It threw my alignment out of whack enough to make it not fun to drive the car at all. When I put my new upper ball joints in I did an alignment immediately following it and it helped greatly.
Unfortunately my rear toe can't be adjusted due to rust so I still experience a small shimmy (only in 2nd gear amazingly) and other than that it's just fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJ06 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL
U always do that...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
They never give the year??
and now the guy is pissed at me? Go figure
When you lower a car it shifts the inner CV joint bearings to a different spot.
Sometimes the axle 'proper' bottoms out in the innerjoint housing.
So if the problem happened after it was lowered, that would be the first thing I'd check
LOL
U always do that...
</TD></TR></TABLE>They never give the year??
and now the guy is pissed at me? Go figure
When you lower a car it shifts the inner CV joint bearings to a different spot.
Sometimes the axle 'proper' bottoms out in the innerjoint housing.
So if the problem happened after it was lowered, that would be the first thing I'd check
hmm wouldn't know, already bought the car lowered, but i'm going to put a front camber kit on in the next few days and get it aligned and hopefully that will take care
of things.
of things.
Yeah, they never say the year. But the inner joints wobbling can happen pretty much any year.
Even without being lowered, the inner CV joints can wear out & wobble. They tend to wobble under power & run smooth when you're not on the gas pedal.
With the front up on ramps you can grab the axles & try to shake them. Look for looseness in the inner joints. That's different from the outer CV joint making clicking sounds when you turn.
If the alignment shop doesn't go out of their way to look for loose stuff, they might not find it. So tell them...
Even without being lowered, the inner CV joints can wear out & wobble. They tend to wobble under power & run smooth when you're not on the gas pedal.
With the front up on ramps you can grab the axles & try to shake them. Look for looseness in the inner joints. That's different from the outer CV joint making clicking sounds when you turn.
If the alignment shop doesn't go out of their way to look for loose stuff, they might not find it. So tell them...
Yeah Jim you're right, the bearings in the joint wear divots in the joint housing. Not just in this particular situation, but in many different cases.
The best way to know for sure is to take the inner joint apart put your finger into all the slimy grease and feel for the divot in the bearing groove.
I've gotten burned checking for this problem with the car on the lift because the joints bearings shift when the car is raised on the lift by the body; much the same as the bearings shift in the joint when the car is lowered.
Of course we will ALL be fooled if we find out the car has plugged up EGR ports causing a slight stumble. LOL
The best way to know for sure is to take the inner joint apart put your finger into all the slimy grease and feel for the divot in the bearing groove.
I've gotten burned checking for this problem with the car on the lift because the joints bearings shift when the car is raised on the lift by the body; much the same as the bearings shift in the joint when the car is lowered.
Of course we will ALL be fooled if we find out the car has plugged up EGR ports causing a slight stumble. LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I've gotten burned checking for this problem with the car on the lift because the joints bearings shift when the car is raised on the lift by the body; much the same as the bearings shift in the joint when the car is lowered.</TD></TR></TABLE>That's exactly why I said ramps instead of a lift or jackstands.
Still, if you don't take the inner joint apart, the amount of motion when you just shake the axle is kinda inconclusive.
Inner drivers with divots worn in them is a very common problem in 1st gen Saab 900. Wobble only under power is classic for that problem.
Still, if you don't take the inner joint apart, the amount of motion when you just shake the axle is kinda inconclusive.
Inner drivers with divots worn in them is a very common problem in 1st gen Saab 900. Wobble only under power is classic for that problem.
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