Quick Build #1:So its almost time for a new swap or what.
Of course im not asking for detail for detail on how to do it because in the end its what I want I know I know. This topic has been covered a million times but suggestions are withing the next few weeks. Plus this topic is just to bring my build to your guys entertainment.
Well the time has come to say that either my motor goes or im in for a build. I have NEVER ever built a motor. I can swap like the back of my hands. But I am also a broke ***. **** if anything I am fed up with this car. I am actually on the process of fixing the body. I recently had an accident and fucked up the whole front end. I am guessing it should be done by next week with all dings out on gray primer. I got new hood, bumper, support, radiator, lights, back bumper. I even got some GSR blades to make the car look nice. Im saying I love this car. But its so many problems.
Set Up
97 Honda Civic EX
97 B18C1
AEM Tru Time Cam Gears
Intake
Fucked up Header with like 3 holes so its crazy loud
Magnaflow exhaust
APEXi VAFC
Bad thing noticed:
Blowing black smoke like ****!
Rich fuel/oil burning
Little pipe from Valve Cover with little filter is burning fuel and shooting smoke
After car is warmed up I remove oil cap and smoke is coming out
When I rev in a still spot there is black spray behind car on the ground
Oil built up on intake manifold
Compression was like 160-155-120-155 (This was a little while ago, love to see the numbers now)
Car is slow until 5K RPM
No Vacuum Tank under intake manifolt so all the Vacuum lines are Fucked up. Motor came like that. All I did was block the vacuum lines. Car idles at 1000 rpm steady until driven then idles at 1400 steady.
Plus throttle cable open up only 96% instead of 100 I have tried adjusting sooo many times but if I adjust it any tighter it affects the idle.
Second note is that I would love a very fast all motor. I do love turbo but it seems that maintence is a bitch on those things. Second note is I would like a mild built motor to run a high 12s to low 13s. Only for the reason that there are to many theives walking around with Type R's around in their hatches with bolt ons thinking their the **** so im looking to woop some of their asses. Plus security measures are a big plus on this build. Maybe some nitrous. My budget is pretty low ever since my hours have been cut back. Im interested in spending less than $1500 to get this thing running back to stock form. If anything I dont mind spending more for a better set up but it will take more time.








If anyone can help me with body work or garage or swap or anything. Let me know guys that are local that can help me out with doing my radiator support. Hit me up and Ill definately bring the beer and pizza or w/e!
P.S This my daily driver
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 5:39 PM 2/5/2007
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 5:46 PM 2/5/2007
Well the time has come to say that either my motor goes or im in for a build. I have NEVER ever built a motor. I can swap like the back of my hands. But I am also a broke ***. **** if anything I am fed up with this car. I am actually on the process of fixing the body. I recently had an accident and fucked up the whole front end. I am guessing it should be done by next week with all dings out on gray primer. I got new hood, bumper, support, radiator, lights, back bumper. I even got some GSR blades to make the car look nice. Im saying I love this car. But its so many problems.
Set Up
97 Honda Civic EX
97 B18C1
AEM Tru Time Cam Gears
Intake
Fucked up Header with like 3 holes so its crazy loud
Magnaflow exhaust
APEXi VAFC
Bad thing noticed:
Blowing black smoke like ****!
Rich fuel/oil burning
Little pipe from Valve Cover with little filter is burning fuel and shooting smoke
After car is warmed up I remove oil cap and smoke is coming out
When I rev in a still spot there is black spray behind car on the ground
Oil built up on intake manifold
Compression was like 160-155-120-155 (This was a little while ago, love to see the numbers now)
Car is slow until 5K RPM
No Vacuum Tank under intake manifolt so all the Vacuum lines are Fucked up. Motor came like that. All I did was block the vacuum lines. Car idles at 1000 rpm steady until driven then idles at 1400 steady.
Plus throttle cable open up only 96% instead of 100 I have tried adjusting sooo many times but if I adjust it any tighter it affects the idle.
Second note is that I would love a very fast all motor. I do love turbo but it seems that maintence is a bitch on those things. Second note is I would like a mild built motor to run a high 12s to low 13s. Only for the reason that there are to many theives walking around with Type R's around in their hatches with bolt ons thinking their the **** so im looking to woop some of their asses. Plus security measures are a big plus on this build. Maybe some nitrous. My budget is pretty low ever since my hours have been cut back. Im interested in spending less than $1500 to get this thing running back to stock form. If anything I dont mind spending more for a better set up but it will take more time.








If anyone can help me with body work or garage or swap or anything. Let me know guys that are local that can help me out with doing my radiator support. Hit me up and Ill definately bring the beer and pizza or w/e!
P.S This my daily driver
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 5:39 PM 2/5/2007
Modified by StreetRacinThug at 5:46 PM 2/5/2007
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StreetRacinThug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that means Low compression ratio..not low compression pistons am i right????</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing....
same thing....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imburne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. If your planning on going forced induction then low compression is key.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it's not. Tuning is key. Plenty of people boost k20's and they have 11:1 c/r.
You can get rid of the piggyback (vafc) and get a p72, chip it and tune it the correct way. That would be a start.
No it's not. Tuning is key. Plenty of people boost k20's and they have 11:1 c/r.
You can get rid of the piggyback (vafc) and get a p72, chip it and tune it the correct way. That would be a start.
Yeah I hear this alot. Im sayin I wish it wasnt so damn cold. If I wanted to get a good *** motor rebuild. I would need Cams, Springs, Retainers, Pistons, Rods. Correct. What about boring the block out does this need to be done? Like that is my question
You're motor is not in good shape at all. Btw black smoke usually means its running rich and blue smoke is oil. If the motor is running as bad as it sounds you probably shouldnt even be driving it. Pickup a stock p72 ecu and then see how it runs. If its still running shitty then you got electrical/sensor problems. After you got the motor running properly then you can start thinking about fixing things. You can put a new motor in there but if it doesnt have a proper tune and its not electricaly sound then theres no point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StreetRacinThug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only for the reason that there are to many theives walking around with Type R's around in their hatches with bolt ons thinking their the **** so im looking to woop some of their asses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you want to beat a thieves car?...so he can know that your car is faster and follow you home later?
why would you want to beat a thieves car?...so he can know that your car is faster and follow you home later?
Not in that sense no. I would like to show them who is boss cause they talk a lot of ****. Im saying Im sure there no way in hell I would get followed without noticing due to the races bieng 50+ miles from my house. Second of all around here hard work is not sticking out like it should. A bunch a thieves showboating what they have stolen.
Well I was talking with one of my good friends and he was telling me he has a JDM H22A setup for his EK but he is also in need some major money due to debt. He was willing to sell me his whole swap, mounts, motor, tranny, axels, harness and ECU for $1800. It comes with 65K new timing belts and water pump. Should I just save up some more and jump on it or try and build. Im thinking of just saving up cause the H would definately knock some good time of the 1/4 mile. Plus the swap wouldnt take more than 2 days.
jump on the h22 swap is sucjh a good price, the build up would prolly run you like 500 bucks do that and sell it back to your friend for 1500 (the gsr) then you're only in the hole 300 for an h22 swap and hes happy with his payments and his ek not being a shell anymore
Alright due too the biggest bad luck in the world. Girlfriend got Bronchitis(sp), i then got fired from my supervisor position. My friend unlatched my hood never closed it and it broke my windshiled and dented my hood. Oh yeah and I either blew my headgasket or for some odd reason my intake manifold is leaking antifreeze.
The build is going awesome. LOL I got my windshield replaced like 2 hours after it got all f'd up. No new hood but im working on it. Mine is temporary. I got a new 99 LS longblock runs real nice. I changed my radiator support yesterday. Got my new shalf core radiator, new OEM Headlights and new bumper. Car looks fantastic. I changed the radiator support in a matter of three hours. Tools needed, Sledge Hammer, Crow Bar, High Powered Drill(battery one was weak), 2 drill bits (neither one broke), a good chizel, and self tapping screws. New radiator support looks awesome fitting is real nice. Ill get pics as soon as my type r look like grill gets here and I get a new hood.
The build is going awesome. LOL I got my windshield replaced like 2 hours after it got all f'd up. No new hood but im working on it. Mine is temporary. I got a new 99 LS longblock runs real nice. I changed my radiator support yesterday. Got my new shalf core radiator, new OEM Headlights and new bumper. Car looks fantastic. I changed the radiator support in a matter of three hours. Tools needed, Sledge Hammer, Crow Bar, High Powered Drill(battery one was weak), 2 drill bits (neither one broke), a good chizel, and self tapping screws. New radiator support looks awesome fitting is real nice. Ill get pics as soon as my type r look like grill gets here and I get a new hood.
Too confirm blown headgasket I did oil change it was milky. My car always blew smoke and it does even more so. And the car gets overheated and then dies out. LOL Just to be more clear on things. Well I forgot to say that I also broke my Hood Sensor for my alarm. as I relocated to a new position due to too many people knowing about it. I broke it in half while I was tightning it on the car. Anyone know where I can get one of these?


