I'v don't all the research and I still can't find some kind of comparison of all 3. I just dropped over $3000 into my suspension and now I'm tending to the brakes. OK so I'm replacing everything on this car. it's 93 dx hatch. i bought a 95 DC as a part car so every part on that car will be used if it's not being replaced with an after-market part. so i have the DC brakes and i was gona use them in my project but i'v came across some good threads about using 01 V6 accord and 95 duel legend caliper and bracket so what I'm getting out of my research is that the accord caliper is better then the GSR caliper because it's bigger and you use a 11" rotor. now same goes for a legend caliper but it's a duel caliper, but in one caliper it's not an even distribution on pressure because each piston has a diff pressure, it's like 40 in the leading edge and 36 in the trailing edge. not sure but something like that. so what sure i use GSR - Accord - Legend? thx for the help

 

First, you're thinking of the wrong Accord. I think it's an early-mid 90's, and utilizes the same caliper as the ITR.

Second, what are you using the car for? The only benefit to bigger rotors/calipers is heat dissipation, which is only needed for track use. If you're street-driving the car only (or are a noob tracking it), GSR/LS brakes will be fine. You'll be keeping the weight down a little too, as the bigger setups are definitely heavier. If it's a track car, and you have experience, either the Accord/ITR or Legend will be fine, the benefit of the Legend being that it's 2-piston, and thus will have more even pad wear (though at the expense of some weight I think, not to mention caliper availability).

Lastly, the "different pressure" of the Legend caliper you're referring to is incorrect...sort of. The two pistons are different sizes, and the setup on the Legend is different than on the Integra (caliper on the back of the Legend, as opposed to on the front of the Integra, or something like that). The solution is to put the right caliper on the left side of the Civic, and vice versa. Again though, unless the car is seeing serious track duty AND you're experienced, none of that is necessary.

 

yes my last set up would get a lil soft feeling in the petel so i figer i'd do the OE up grade to one of thies. and i and get a re pop caliper from autozone. and just get the braket ot the junk yard.. so if i were to go with one of thise. what one would be the better of the 2?

 

bumpy

 

Guys, its the CD5 accord wagon (94-97 style, only made 94-95)

Single piston, but just larger.

 

so why am i hereing it's the V6 vtec accord

 

also shared w/5th gen v6 caliper

 

that would includ the 01 rite. i'm the a pro on the accord yr modles. lol.

 

If you're going with 11" rotors, just use the single-piston 17CL15VN calipers found on ITR/CB9/BB1/BB6/some others. They're more than enough for a 2200lb car with 200whp.

If you're using a 10.3" rotor, use the 17CL14VN Integra calipers.

The dual piston OE calipers are just friggin heavy. They don't even out pad wear because they're still a floating type caliper so the inside pad wears faster than the outside. Did I mention they weigh a metric assload?

 

ight lol, thx for the info. it helps alot. thx again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They don't even out pad wear because they're still a floating type caliper so the inside pad wears faster than the outside. Did I mention they weigh a metric assload?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I won't disagree with the weight, but I will disagree with this. People who had problems with ITR/Accord calipers destroying pads have had much more luck with the Legend ones. I know for sure Todd Reid did, and I remember hearing the same thing from another racer or two.

Edit: When I say uneven pad wear, I mean the pads getting banana shaped, not left to right wear.

 

so I think this is a fair question then:

What is the best 11" setup for the money.. .

I only say 11" b/c most people want to run 15s.. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I won't disagree with the weight, but I will disagree with this. People who had problems with ITR/Accord calipers destroying pads have had much more luck with the Legend ones. I know for sure Todd Reid did, and I remember hearing the same thing from another racer or two.

Edit: When I say uneven pad wear, I mean the pads getting banana shaped, not left to right wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah, I see. Do you know of any threads where this problem was addressed? I'd like to see the comparison of pad wear between the two and what was discussed. Caliper slide pin lube (or lack thereof) can sometimes play a big role in uneven pad wear with floating calipers.

 

Unfortunately, I don't. My experience with Todd's situation was just gathered from talking to him in person. I know he stated specifically that with the ITR ones, the slide pin was properly lubed.

6spd, which is "best" is kind of subjective. It would depend on how much stopping power a car needed, driver's braking style and ability, and so on. My own opinion would be that unless you're really having a problem with weird wear, the ITR/Accord setup is the best compromise, as it stops well, has a big enough heatsink, but is lighter than the Legend setup.

 

just to add in my personal experience, I have only ever used gsr calipers on my eg which i use on track. Many others use the larger caliper and rotors but wont stop as fast as mine because I have a better set of pads and use a steel braided brake line which really helped for pedal feel.

 

the legend gs dual piston calipers are heavy, but i use them because with the 28T brackets i can use the 28mm x 11" rotors (redrilled to 4x100), which can handle more heat than the 23 or 25mm 11" rotors, and they fit beneath my 15" wheels. as i improve my driving and eventually upgrade to R comp tires, i'll add ducts and step up to a newer, more aggressive Cobalt brake compound, but for now i'm on GT Sports and Azenis tires, my car weighs ~2600#s w/an old, tired, stock b16. i run in the intermediate class, and am by no means fast, but we (relative) noobs tend to be harder on the brakes, and where before i could easily fade my itr brakes with Axxis Ultimate pads (same Valvoline Synth fluid), fading my new setup takes notably more effort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
6spd, which is "best" is kind of subjective. It would depend on how much stopping power a car needed, driver's braking style and ability, and so on. My own opinion would be that unless you're really having a problem with weird wear, the ITR/Accord setup is the best compromise, as it stops well, has a big enough heatsink, but is lighter than the Legend setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say a 2600 lb race weight car would be a nice figure for all to concider.. .
I think my ideal setup would be a 2 piston alluminum caliper, 11" 23-25T 2pc rotor. But I'm staying OEM and more cost effective.

I'm going from a GSR to an ITR front which I think will be enough for me.. .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i run in the intermediate class, and am by no means fast, but we (relative) noobs tend to be harder on the brakes, and where before i could easily fade my itr brakes with Axxis Ultimate pads (same Valvoline Synth fluid), fading my new setup takes notably more effort. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm in the same boat, but I think my speed and driving style wont require the thicker heatsink.. . Hopefully I will get better/faster and stop using the brakes so much.. .

 

we noobs are hard on brakes because we brake longer than do better drivers, who may be yet harder because, while they are on them for less time, they brake harder and generally have to slow the car more and from higher speeds.

there's quite a difference between fading the brakes from dragging them with lower temp-rated pads and putting more heat into the rotors in less time by using race pads (same rotors, same car) to slow the car. you also have to consider that the increased traction afforded by R comps which allows for higher cornering speeds also allows for more potential braking force = more heat.

in short, in the same car, the faster you are, the harder you are on the brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where before i could easily fade my itr brakes with Axxis Ultimate pads (same Valvoline Synth fluid), fading my new setup takes notably more effort. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The pads were the problem there, not the calipers.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in short, in the same car, the faster you are, the harder you are on the brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not quite. As you get faster, you'll find out how little you really need to use the brakes. You may be going faster at the end of the straight, but your final "slowed speed" will be higher as well (meaning higher corner entry speed).

 

great info. i agree entry speed is very important, as is corner entry and exiting with the rite line. but as much as i love talking about cornering and things to better skill level. this is off topic.

so if were to go and bay brand new calipers and braket. what would be a gppd set up for someone building car from the ground up?

BTW, i got my new SS brake lines in today

 

Don't think of it as building from the ground up, think of it as developing skill. You don't want to start doing this stuff with a full-blown racecar, a lot of the pieces will hide your mistakes. You want to start off with a streetish car, then work your way up from there as you gain experience.

And I forgot my point : Go with the GSR/LS calipers.

 

https://www.kingmotorsports.co...cat=3

my new brake lines

 

i have work with a car like that. and i guess i could say i maxed my old set up out. i ended up going around turns side ways like a mild drift. but in compleat control of what "I" was doing. so i've taken the car off the road and began building that bitch up. so now i have a full out race suspention. but i wanted to start out wath a lower spring rate say i could get use to the new satr up and i'll buy more aggresive rates later when and if needed.

but i do a bit of down hill and have your brakes start getting shity on you going down hill is a tarifing feeling

 

FYI:

I've been running '96 Accord wagon calipers on my '97 Integra for almost 8 years now. I'm using redrilled Prelude VTEC rotors and Porterfield R4S pads the entire 8 years. I had to mill ~2mm of material from the caliper mounting brackets and have had ZERO problems with this set up after 10+ HPDE weekends and ~80k miles of street use. Along with stainless lines and ATE Superblue fuild, this setup has been the best modification I've done to my car.

.02

 

I think this dude is a lost Cause Stinky.. . What do you think???