Brake Question, what do you guys thing??
Well front brake pads need to be replaced on my Teg. When i inspected it, the driver side rotor, it is starting to grove a little bit, passenger side is fine(Rotors are cross drilled).
What should I do. Already bought EBC red stuff . Would the red stuff smoothen it out, or will the grooving continue.
O yeah the passenger side have a lot less material left that the driver side. Am guessing the caliper sliders needs some maintainence.
What should I do. Already bought EBC red stuff . Would the red stuff smoothen it out, or will the grooving continue.
O yeah the passenger side have a lot less material left that the driver side. Am guessing the caliper sliders needs some maintainence.
putting new pads on will not fix your rotors. And you can't get drill rotors machined that i'm aware of.
for the slides, all you have to do is lube them up and make sure they are sliding well. your piston could also be seized and pushing the pad into the rotor.
for the slides, all you have to do is lube them up and make sure they are sliding well. your piston could also be seized and pushing the pad into the rotor.
Yeah, you can't machine cross drilled rotors. The pads were a long shot also
I figgure the sliders are seized, because the calipers are only 2 years old(new, not rebuilt).
I guess am gonna go with a pair of these:
http://www.racingbrake.com/INT...8.htm

I figgure the sliders are seized, because the calipers are only 2 years old(new, not rebuilt).
I guess am gonna go with a pair of these:
http://www.racingbrake.com/INT...8.htm
If I were you, I wouldnt even worry about getting an expensive rotor...
I know I used to try to worry about all that, and wasted a lot of money on them all... Rotors are going to mess up, thats just the way it is.. heat gets to them.
Now Im just running Axxis Ultimate brake pads, with cheapy autozone rotors
and thats what id recommend to you...
I really dont notice anything different in braking power.. if you want that, think about the legend/nsx brake swap or something.
I know I used to try to worry about all that, and wasted a lot of money on them all... Rotors are going to mess up, thats just the way it is.. heat gets to them.
Now Im just running Axxis Ultimate brake pads, with cheapy autozone rotors
and thats what id recommend to you...I really dont notice anything different in braking power.. if you want that, think about the legend/nsx brake swap or something.
your brakes are a crucial part of the driving experience – and any degradation in braking power means you’re in danger of losing control. ...with your ebc redstuff you’ll be able to get incredible performance from your brakes, its guaranteed..it has a 42-foot improvement in braking distance at high speeds in quality testing. :-)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well front brake pads need to be replaced on my Teg. When i inspected it, the driver side rotor, it is starting to grove a little bit, passenger side is fine(Rotors are cross drilled).
What should I do. Already bought EBC red stuff . Would the red stuff smoothen it out, or will the grooving continue.
O yeah the passenger side have a lot less material left that the driver side. Am guessing the caliper sliders needs some maintainence. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You may also try the EBC Greenstuff. They are made for heavy street driving and formulated with low dust formula. Try to have one to evaluate it yourself...
What should I do. Already bought EBC red stuff . Would the red stuff smoothen it out, or will the grooving continue.
O yeah the passenger side have a lot less material left that the driver side. Am guessing the caliper sliders needs some maintainence. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You may also try the EBC Greenstuff. They are made for heavy street driving and formulated with low dust formula. Try to have one to evaluate it yourself...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DamnYank! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why buy drilled and/or slotted anyway? (do not say because of pad gases, etc)
buy a good quality std blank rotor and you'll be fine. also save yourself some $$$</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with this, im not really sure why people buy those drilled and slotted rotors anymore, i guess they like changing pads more often
buy a good quality std blank rotor and you'll be fine. also save yourself some $$$</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with this, im not really sure why people buy those drilled and slotted rotors anymore, i guess they like changing pads more often
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crossed drilled rotors for a DD
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cross drilled rotors period
</TD></TR></TABLE>Cross drilled rotors period
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danzel88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your brakes are a crucial part of the driving experience – and any degradation in braking power means you’re in danger of losing control. ...with your ebc redstuff you’ll be able to get incredible performance from your brakes, its guaranteed..it has a 42-foot improvement in braking distance at high speeds in quality testing. :-)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Brakes are only a small component of stopping distance. For most modern cars, a single high-speed stop will not result in brake fade. Therefore, tires and suspension are the most critical components for a shorter stopping distance. Better brakes mean that you can repeatedly stop from high speed without the risk of brake fade.
Blank rotors are best for a DD.
Brakes are only a small component of stopping distance. For most modern cars, a single high-speed stop will not result in brake fade. Therefore, tires and suspension are the most critical components for a shorter stopping distance. Better brakes mean that you can repeatedly stop from high speed without the risk of brake fade.
Blank rotors are best for a DD.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wayne_Curr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cross drilled rotors period
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even better. Cross drilled for Integras = form. No function here.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Even better. Cross drilled for Integras = form. No function here.
what i THING is that you should go and machine the rotors..find a place that can resurface the warped rotors..
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS RESURFACE THE ROTORS WHEN INSTALLING NEW BRAKE PADS
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS RESURFACE THE ROTORS WHEN INSTALLING NEW BRAKE PADS
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW_98gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i THING is that you should go and machine the rotors..find a place that can resurface the warped rotors..
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS RESURFACE THE ROTORS WHEN INSTALLING NEW BRAKE PADS</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors do not commonly warp. Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS RESURFACE THE ROTORS WHEN INSTALLING NEW BRAKE PADS</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors do not commonly warp. Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't resurface machined crossdrilled rotors!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes you can...i used to have crossdrilled...the machine they use to resurface, you have to do it slower than normal...I've done it before
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes you can...i used to have crossdrilled...the machine they use to resurface, you have to do it slower than normal...I've done it before
Guys the rotors arent warped, they are just starting to grove a little bit. Its not a daily driver. Most likey I will be goin back with Cross Drilled.
Only had the car for a few weeks. Just put rims on it on the weekend, and saw that the back has crossed drilled on the back too ( previous owner didnt mentioned that). It would make sense to put back cross drilled in the front.
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference
Only had the car for a few weeks. Just put rims on it on the weekend, and saw that the back has crossed drilled on the back too ( previous owner didnt mentioned that). It would make sense to put back cross drilled in the front.
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep telling yourself that
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep telling yourself that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's all in your mind dude, just keep thinking that
just like my friend, he deleted the air conditioning and got a carbon fiber hood and thought he was alot quicker because of the weight reduction
Also, for the few that dont think cross drilled makes a difference. It makes a HUGE difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's all in your mind dude, just keep thinking that
just like my friend, he deleted the air conditioning and got a carbon fiber hood and thought he was alot quicker because of the weight reduction


