Hey guys, I have a question for you all. I searched for this and apparently SHakes had the exact problem I am having right now, but until he IM's me back (hopefully) I was hoping one of you might know what's going on...

I have a 93 prelude si, and about a month ago I rebuilt the head, and about three weeks ago I replaced the water pump, and ever since the car has been dying everytime I put the clutch in, but only after the car has been driving for awhile.

Then, this morning as I was driving to class, the car completely gave up on me. It got completely gutless and then stalled out, so I puttered it into the nearest parking lot and investigated. It idled fine, but everytime I even barely put the clutch in it would immediately stall, and after awhile of just sitting there it would also stall. Any ideas?

Also, my oil light is one even though the oil levels and pressures seem to be fine.

Thank very much for any help.

 

well the fact that it slowly died eliminates the idea of some wierd prob with the clutch switch....

we had a prob kinda like that with johns lude...thought it was dizzy related...turned out the ecu ground on the thermostat housing was loose...

check the grounds....id also look and see if you have any major vac leaks...

 

Thanks for the help. I will check on all of that. Also, I talked to Shakes and he said a dented oil pan caused bad oil circulation and it threw out his thrust bearing, and it caused the exact same problems I'm having, so that may be it as well, I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomservo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I talked to Shakes and he said a dented oil pan caused bad oil circulation and it threw out his thrust bearing, and it caused the exact same problems I'm having, so that may be it as well, I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess thats phat...man that would suck a big one...hopefully its something small...enslave a friend or two and scour your engine bay..let us know

 

uhhhhg. Yeah, I will let everyone know what happens. Thanks again.

 

I'd check the timing first, before you tear the engine apart. I'd be willing to bet that your autotensioner gave out and your cam timing is off

 

That would be AWESOME if that was the problem. Here's hoping. THanks.

 

I think 4g's are manual tensioners correct?

 

Well first I wanna know a few things. Do you keep the car in neutral or in first when you are not driving it. And is it dieing while you are driving or is it dieing when you put the clutch it to start off in first gear?

Two things I feel like possibly could be a compression problem. If you are experiencing it dieing while shifting gears while already in motion than probably the engine is having a hard time dealing with the change of friction from the transmission to the lack of friction which would designate a problem with the head. When you took the head gasket off please tell me you replaced the head gasket? I guess I just need some more info before I can give you a better judgement of the problem! Hope it gets worked out bro, I hate to see fellow ludes no driving :-(

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wsteun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think 4g's are manual tensioners correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

h23s have manual tensioners
h22s have the autotensioner

 

your avatar kills me. I hate matlab soo much AGH!!! lol

 

wierd issue for sure, let us know what you try and if it helps. and hey since its good to see a fellow colorado luder, check out coprelude.com

 

Alright guys, I just want to say first thanks for all the opinions and advice. I checked the timing on the car and is seems as dead on as when set it a few weeks ago, so that unfortunately is not the problem.

I just started working on the car to figure out what IS wrong and I have two updates to report that I hope will make sense to someone: The first is that the car currently sounds like **** when it revs over about 2500 rpm. My dad seems to think I fucked up a bearing or six, but it's not certain yet until I take the thing apart. The other thing I noticed was that the knock sensor above the oil filter was completely broken off and not doing anything. I don't know enough about them to say if this is important or not, so I'll ask you guys. If the knock sensor is compelely fubar'ed, will it possibly screw with the timing enough to cause it to do what it's doing now?

Thanks again guys, and feel free to keep those ideas comin' at me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomservo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the timing on the car and is seems as dead on as when set it a few weeks ago, so that unfortunately is not the problem.

If the knock sensor is compelely fubar'ed, will it possibly screw with the timing enough to cause it to do what it's doing now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your timing probably hasn't been affected by your knock sensor if your timing is dead on...

I would check what CGags13 said about wiring. Check EVERYTHING under the hood that you might have unhooked and didn't rehook. You never know. It could be something very simple that is causing this...I've never even heard of this. It idles perfect, but the clutch kills it.

 

You know it really could be a drive bearing in which case you need to not run it too much . I this isn't the same aplication but my friends Mini Cooper died after a day of hardcore autoxing and basically his main drive bearing frictionwelded itselt to the block and ******* killed the motor. However it doesnt sound too much like the problem you are having. Like the aboves said if it isn't something mechanical that I would assume it would be something electrical. Have you worked on the car lately before you had the problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomservo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
about a month ago I rebuilt the head, and about three weeks ago I replaced the water pump
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He said this was what he has done recently.

 

How much does the crank move if you push on the accessory pulley? If the thrust bearings are going out then is it likely that there is some end play. Good luck.

 

I guess I was just looking for maybe more details about what he did and messed with so that it will easier to see if maybe he put something back on wrong or something small happened.

 

Thanks guys again for all of your help. Like I said I just got done rebuilding the head a few weeks ago and I am 95% positive that was all done correctly. The car was running fine for about a week and then it started crapping out after about 20 minutes, which I'm convinced is due to the knock sensor. The new problem, however, I'm pretty sure is because the oil light came on.

Anyways, my next step is to replace the knock sensor and check the oil pressure somehow (any suggestions?) .

Also, you guys are keeping this car alive, theoretically. Both my girlfriend and my dad are telling me it's probably time to let the car go and get something else, but I hate quitting and you guys are the only support i have anymore. :Sniff: I love you guys, man :sniff:

 

Did you do what Flyrod suggested?

How do you know your oil pressure is fine?

I would start looking at your oil there guy. If it is shiney or there's metal flake in it then your engine is toast, or about to be.

Knock sensors have very little to do with the oil pressure sensor. Get the Helm manual and take a cursory look at the wiring diagrams for the oil pressure sensor.

Pirate

 

I'd check to make sure that the knock sensor isn't giving you the big problem. i'm sure that if your knock sensor isn't hooked up, especially for the h22, the ecu will have the car acting all kinds of funny. Also, when you reassembled the head, did you put all 3 orfices back in their places??? there is an orfice under cam cap E1 and I1 and another one in the middle of the head on top (the one that goes in the block for h23s goes in the head for h22s).