Timing belt broke.....1989 crx si
So my timing belt broke while driving home from work. Will I be better off towing the car to a mechanic and spending the money to put a new belt on or do it myself? Or should I just wait it out save money for a new engine because more than likely the valves are bent.
how do you tell if the valves are bent without taking it and getting a compression test?
how do you tell if the valves are bent without taking it and getting a compression test?
just rip the head off and assess the destruction... chances are the valves are bent, and the pistons have dents in them now, so new motor is the best route because its the cheapest.. d16a6s go for like 100$ now..
if the valves are just fucked and it didnt screw the pistons, u can just replace the head also...
a mechanic is gonna cost u a shitload watch out.
if the valves are just fucked and it didnt screw the pistons, u can just replace the head also...
a mechanic is gonna cost u a shitload watch out.
you have to have a timing belt to do a compression test. the belt is like $35 at autozone if you can do it yourself. you might get lucky and it be ok.
Well, today I had the Rex towed to my place. I went to advanced auto parts bought a timing belt for 29 dollars. Went to home depot, bought an impact wrench, and rented a air compressor.
I jacked up the car,
removed the drivers side tire,
Tried to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, didn't budge
put a 2X4 ontop of a hyd, jack, jacked the engine up a bit, removed the drivers side motor mounts. losenend the alternator, removed the belt. took off th bolts for the lover cover on the crankshaft. And that is where I am stuck.
The crankshaft bolt must be removed before i can remove the lower cover. I was told to use an impact wrench to get that bolt off but it would budge. What am i doing wrong. Is the car supposed to be in gear, would that help, i didn't catch that i didn't have it in gear until i threw the towel in for the night.
Thanks for the read and any advice would help. It is a SOHC, missing upper cover.
I jacked up the car,
removed the drivers side tire,
Tried to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, didn't budge
put a 2X4 ontop of a hyd, jack, jacked the engine up a bit, removed the drivers side motor mounts. losenend the alternator, removed the belt. took off th bolts for the lover cover on the crankshaft. And that is where I am stuck.
The crankshaft bolt must be removed before i can remove the lower cover. I was told to use an impact wrench to get that bolt off but it would budge. What am i doing wrong. Is the car supposed to be in gear, would that help, i didn't catch that i didn't have it in gear until i threw the towel in for the night.
Thanks for the read and any advice would help. It is a SOHC, missing upper cover.
if the crank pulley looks like a 6 sided socket (sort of anyways) and spins when you try to take it out, you will have to use a pully holder (there is a special one for hondas) to take the bolt out.
I had this happen on New years day. Had it towed to work. ( a honda dealership) The techs there including a master tech, said the valves should be fine. They just took off the valve cover, and checked the clearance. New t belt, water pump, all oil seals and valve adjustment for 100 bucks. No problems so far. My point, from what the master tech and others said. The vtec engines are more likely to bend valves. Hopefully your in the clear. At least you wont have to worry about the t belt for a while. Good luck on it. Hope it goes well for you.
The crank pully bolt,Since you have a compressor, impact it off. Not sure what the psi is on your compressor, but 200 takes it off like nothing. My 125 psi tank at home wont do it though. I'm sure you'd be ok with 150 psi and up.
The crank pully bolt,Since you have a compressor, impact it off. Not sure what the psi is on your compressor, but 200 takes it off like nothing. My 125 psi tank at home wont do it though. I'm sure you'd be ok with 150 psi and up.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jusnsx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where would I get such a thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ebay belive it or not, search for "honda crank pulley, tool" without the quotes, they run about $25, good investment.
ebay belive it or not, search for "honda crank pulley, tool" without the quotes, they run about $25, good investment.
the cheaper way would be to take off the flywheel access panel and use something big to jam the flywheel. then the engine wont spin and you can use the impact gun to get the bolt off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cheaper way would be to take off the flywheel access panel and use something big to jam the flywheel. then the engine wont spin and you can use the impact gun to get the bolt off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Had mine break on my first CRX years ago on the freeway at about 55mph. Had to only replace 1 valve. Tagged it just a little.. Since I had to replace just one valve, It snowballed from there. Had the head ported and polished and that was the start of it all. (way back in 88)
That would explain why this impact gun that i got isn't making an impact on the bolt. 120 is as high as i can get it. So i have been trying the jamming route, and right now i am waiting for a friend to come to help out, it definitly isn't a one man job. THanks for the info all it has been great i really hope i can get this, it is driving me crazy.
Later
Later
if you have a 120V husky compressor don't expect too much from it Lol. the regulator and 1/4" fittings are very restrictive and make pneumatic tools seem weak.
galvanized gas pipe reducers, nipples and an 18" pipe wrench=homemade crankpulley holder.
galvanized gas pipe reducers, nipples and an 18" pipe wrench=homemade crankpulley holder.
My impact won't break the crank bolt loose either. The last time I did this, I took a couple of small 8mm or so sockets and placed them in two of the holes in the pulley, then ran a long pry bar through them braced on the ground. This held the pulley long enough for me to break the crank bolt loose with a breaker bar.
A breaker bar with a jack handle or something on the end to really extend it. I had to break my first crank pulley bolt loose this way before I had the right tools (Man that was long ago). This method with your Ebay tool you just bought will make it a snap
.....no pun intended
.....no pun intended
Ok, so i finally got the bolt off. Talk about a nightmare. Well i followed what the book said to do, got everything zipped up and took her for a spin around the complex. Got it is second gear and she seems bogged down so i think the timing is wrong, not to mention there is smoke coming from my 02 sensor.....?
My 89 civic si has 191,000 miles on it,I just bought it last summer I am reading this....and think I best put a timing on it.I have no idea when the last one was put on!
Dave
Dave
I highly recoment it! It is a nightmare but worth it in the long run. Right now I think my timing is off. So hopefully i can figure that out. But for some reason, I only had the car running for a few minutes and there was smoke coming from what looked like the 02 sensor, or the exhaust manifold area. I hope it is nothing bad but we will see. Still learning here.
I love that most people don't know which motors are non-interference (valves won't hit the pistons when the timing belt breaks)
I have bought two LS integras now for $500 each (on different occasions) from people who thought they had blown the motor when the timing belt broke. I still have 'em both and they run great. Put 30k on one after an afternoon water pump and timing belt change.
That crank pulley is a bitch though. You can try a chain wrench to hold the pulley if you can't find the honda tool locally / quickly. Just be careful not to crush the pulley.
I have bought two LS integras now for $500 each (on different occasions) from people who thought they had blown the motor when the timing belt broke. I still have 'em both and they run great. Put 30k on one after an afternoon water pump and timing belt change.
That crank pulley is a bitch though. You can try a chain wrench to hold the pulley if you can't find the honda tool locally / quickly. Just be careful not to crush the pulley.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love that most people don't know which motors are non-interference (valves won't hit the pistons when the timing belt breaks)
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I read this and was hoping for some kind of list which motors are interference and which not. You didn't even tell the OPer if his is an interference or not.
good post just not informative (I don't know which motors interference otherwise I would post it)
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I read this and was hoping for some kind of list which motors are interference and which not. You didn't even tell the OPer if his is an interference or not.
good post just not informative (I don't know which motors interference otherwise I would post it)
it has been my understanding that all honda engines are interference engines. I too would be interested in a list of which are not. i believe all b-series are interference, so if they are not, enlighten me.



