99 accord aem ems 1040 starting issues
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: twin cities, Minnesota, USA
This is a repost of the same thing in the tech area but i thought maybe itd be more useful here too.......
Hey i was wondering if anyone could help me out i have a 1050 for my 99 accord, it was tuned in the summer and now that it is cold it doesnt like starting at all. It is turbocharged stock motor.
What ive tried working with
-The warm-up enrichment table/graph
-crank injector timing table/graph
the crank injector timing table works to get it to sputter but never fully turn over.
Most of the time i half to mess with it for so long the battery runs out of juice and i have to hook up to another car for awhile and keep trying. i just got a new redtop optima a week ago so its not the battery, it does start but it has to be warm or worked on for a decent time period
any ideas what i can do? if any of you know the ems very well please help! i can give you more information if needed
thanks in advance!
Modified by hotaccord243 at 3:00 AM 2/2/2007
Hey i was wondering if anyone could help me out i have a 1050 for my 99 accord, it was tuned in the summer and now that it is cold it doesnt like starting at all. It is turbocharged stock motor.
What ive tried working with
-The warm-up enrichment table/graph
-crank injector timing table/graph
the crank injector timing table works to get it to sputter but never fully turn over.
Most of the time i half to mess with it for so long the battery runs out of juice and i have to hook up to another car for awhile and keep trying. i just got a new redtop optima a week ago so its not the battery, it does start but it has to be warm or worked on for a decent time period
any ideas what i can do? if any of you know the ems very well please help! i can give you more information if needed
thanks in advance!
Modified by hotaccord243 at 3:00 AM 2/2/2007
interesting - how are you running a 1040 on your 99 accord? is it OBD1 wiring? a 1050 would be the plug & play for F23 wiring.
I would suspect the crank injector time table, but if it used to start fine and now doesn't that's very odd. Warm up enrichment shouldn't come into play until the engine actually starts.
Have you pop started the car? does it run right once started?
I had a starting problem with my 1010 when I put my built motor in - eventually had to send the box to AEM for repair.
I would suspect the crank injector time table, but if it used to start fine and now doesn't that's very odd. Warm up enrichment shouldn't come into play until the engine actually starts.
Have you pop started the car? does it run right once started?
I had a starting problem with my 1010 when I put my built motor in - eventually had to send the box to AEM for repair.
these AEM boxes are almost more of a pain in the *** then anything else. i mean yea its nice to have somthing that can give you complete control over the motor and sensors but still just a pain.
im still workin on my setup, lookin in to the hall effect for the timing, but ill get there at somepoint.
mine has an issue starting somtimes but its more of timing then the fact that its cold. altho when it is cold and in buffalo its been COLD latly, 20 and lower, it dies have a harder time starting.
im still workin on my setup, lookin in to the hall effect for the timing, but ill get there at somepoint.
mine has an issue starting somtimes but its more of timing then the fact that its cold. altho when it is cold and in buffalo its been COLD latly, 20 and lower, it dies have a harder time starting.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: twin cities, Minnesota, USA
alright first of all, haha whoops 1050 is what i meant i have, typo i guess
second of all, yes the from what ive been learning B, yeah warm-up is when it is already started, and ive just been recently been working with the crank injector timing which is set at 80 across the board until about 95-100% throttle and drops to 0, and i have been working with it moving it within 70-90 and 75-77 works the best but it still doesnt want to start.
As far as after it has started, it runs like a top, boosts fine, idles fine everything, but as soon as the motor gets cold it just wont start, i either have to fight with it to start, or let it warm up every 4-6 maybe 8 hours just to make sure it keeps starting! it's driving me crazy.
B- when you say pop starting im assuming rolling pop the clutch type start, well yeah i could but it takes a couple guys to get it going and then do it, but yeah i guarantee it'll start that way too, when you sent the box in for repair was there a problem with the physical box? please explain, also any other ideas, thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated
also it seems im running rich because when i pull the plugs they are really black and reek of fuel, which means rich so i have tried to lean it down and it helps but doesn't solve the problem
today i bought NGK laser platinum and was told to gap them to .044 for the accord and havent been able to try them but hoping to tommorrow to see if it makes a difference, FYI i had NGK Vpower gapped to about .034 which is way different so well see........
second of all, yes the from what ive been learning B, yeah warm-up is when it is already started, and ive just been recently been working with the crank injector timing which is set at 80 across the board until about 95-100% throttle and drops to 0, and i have been working with it moving it within 70-90 and 75-77 works the best but it still doesnt want to start.
As far as after it has started, it runs like a top, boosts fine, idles fine everything, but as soon as the motor gets cold it just wont start, i either have to fight with it to start, or let it warm up every 4-6 maybe 8 hours just to make sure it keeps starting! it's driving me crazy.
B- when you say pop starting im assuming rolling pop the clutch type start, well yeah i could but it takes a couple guys to get it going and then do it, but yeah i guarantee it'll start that way too, when you sent the box in for repair was there a problem with the physical box? please explain, also any other ideas, thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated
also it seems im running rich because when i pull the plugs they are really black and reek of fuel, which means rich so i have tried to lean it down and it helps but doesn't solve the problem
today i bought NGK laser platinum and was told to gap them to .044 for the accord and havent been able to try them but hoping to tommorrow to see if it makes a difference, FYI i had NGK Vpower gapped to about .034 which is way different so well see........
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: twin cities, Minnesota, USA
So i think i found the problem and please let me know what you guys think those of you who know aem ems's
i replaced the spark plugs and started cranking it and got a lot better response out of the car but still did not start,
lately i have been noticing that the cooling fans are always on and the coolant temp says 175F so i went into setup sensors and the coolant temp sensor wizard selected the honda sensor, and it jumped down to 5F and i cranked it and it started right up, no problems runs fine, could that really have been the problem?
anyway i have yet to see if this cures my problem but any response is appreciated!
i replaced the spark plugs and started cranking it and got a lot better response out of the car but still did not start,
lately i have been noticing that the cooling fans are always on and the coolant temp says 175F so i went into setup sensors and the coolant temp sensor wizard selected the honda sensor, and it jumped down to 5F and i cranked it and it started right up, no problems runs fine, could that really have been the problem?
anyway i have yet to see if this cures my problem but any response is appreciated!
That really could have been it. Cold start you need alot of extra fuel, wheras hot start you barely need any. Here's the better question, is it still working?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 439
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From: twin cities, Minnesota, USA
well i went to work from about 445-1230 which is longer than id usually let it sit without starting it midshift, and it sit for about 8 hours or so, and it started right up! i couldn't believe it! it cranked once and it turned on and died, tried it again, didn't even crank, it just turned on
it would never start sitting that long in below zero weather let alone 10 above weather!
i think i just got it, i appreciate the feedback those who did, but i'll have to see over the next few days to see if it holds true!
it would never start sitting that long in below zero weather let alone 10 above weather!
i think i just got it, i appreciate the feedback those who did, but i'll have to see over the next few days to see if it holds true!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotaccord243 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you sent the box in for repair was there a problem with the physical box? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, the interface board was shot.
glad you found the problem! the prodigy
hit the nail on the head:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prodigal Son »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That really could have been it. Cold start you need alot of extra fuel, wheras hot start you barely need any. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, the interface board was shot.
glad you found the problem! the prodigy
hit the nail on the head:<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prodigal Son »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That really could have been it. Cold start you need alot of extra fuel, wheras hot start you barely need any. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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