motor stopped on the freeway last night
if anyone can throw out some opinions on what happened that would be great..
motor pretty much felt like it was loosing power while going 70ish..
opened the hood and noticed the all the teeth on the timing belt was shaved off. the belt was still on the sprockets and retained tension.
towed the car home :
-can't turn the car over with the key
-I turned the crank by hand and watched the sprockets move for half a turn then stop.
-the crank will keep turning with no problems , smooth rotations.
- spark plugs removed to look down at the surface of the pistons..
no debris , smooth surface..
- I then tried to turn the cams by hand with the timing belt removed, each cam will only move half a turn in both directions ( don't know if that's normal )..
- no scaring on the cams - oil level in the motor is fine.. no metal flakes.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
im thinkin maybe a few valves stayed open or closed?
my valves did chatter - told it would do so for using a b16 motion assembly with a toda b cam.
Im just guessing.. lol
you're input would be really appreciated , thanks~
to super bowl sunday
motor pretty much felt like it was loosing power while going 70ish..
opened the hood and noticed the all the teeth on the timing belt was shaved off. the belt was still on the sprockets and retained tension.
towed the car home :
-can't turn the car over with the key
-I turned the crank by hand and watched the sprockets move for half a turn then stop.
-the crank will keep turning with no problems , smooth rotations.
- spark plugs removed to look down at the surface of the pistons..
no debris , smooth surface..
- I then tried to turn the cams by hand with the timing belt removed, each cam will only move half a turn in both directions ( don't know if that's normal )..
- no scaring on the cams - oil level in the motor is fine.. no metal flakes.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
im thinkin maybe a few valves stayed open or closed?
my valves did chatter - told it would do so for using a b16 motion assembly with a toda b cam.
Im just guessing.. lol
you're input would be really appreciated , thanks~
to super bowl sunday
Depending on the location of the pistons, its normal for the cams to only turn as much as you mentioned. The valves are hitting the pistons and thus ending the rotation as a result.
The teeth being ripped of the belt would indicate to me that something siezed. Most likely the water pump. Can you turn the water pump by hand? What cams are you running? What valve springs? How old is the belt?
The teeth being ripped of the belt would indicate to me that something siezed. Most likely the water pump. Can you turn the water pump by hand? What cams are you running? What valve springs? How old is the belt?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put on a new timing belt and do a compression test
if all fine then you are lucky</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would never just write something like this off without fully understanding what caused it to begin with. If so, you are just going to run into trouble later on down the road.
if all fine then you are lucky</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would never just write something like this off without fully understanding what caused it to begin with. If so, you are just going to run into trouble later on down the road.
How many miles are on this engine?
A good friend of mine once decided not to check the clearances of his rod bearings, and ended up seizing this particular GSR engine after 3.8 miles.
A good friend of mine once decided not to check the clearances of his rod bearings, and ended up seizing this particular GSR engine after 3.8 miles.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would never just write something like this off without fully understanding what caused it to begin with. If so, you are just going to run into trouble later on down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if he can spin the crank by hand then its not seized.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:Reza:. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-I turned the crank by hand and watched the sprockets move for half a turn then stop.
-the crank will keep turning with no problems , smooth rotations.
- spark plugs removed to look down at the surface of the pistons..
no debris , smooth surface..
- I then tried to turn the cams by hand with the timing belt removed, each cam will only move half a turn in both directions ( don't know if that's normal )..
- no scaring on the cams - oil level in the motor is fine.. no metal flakes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the cams are fine also. you have checked the oil pan and oil filter for metal flakes. i would tinik the timing belt just went bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put on a new timing belt and do a compression test
if all fine then you are lucky</TD></TR></TABLE>
doing a compression test doesn't mean start her up and drive away. that would just be my next choice of action
I would never just write something like this off without fully understanding what caused it to begin with. If so, you are just going to run into trouble later on down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if he can spin the crank by hand then its not seized.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:Reza:. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-I turned the crank by hand and watched the sprockets move for half a turn then stop.
-the crank will keep turning with no problems , smooth rotations.
- spark plugs removed to look down at the surface of the pistons..
no debris , smooth surface..
- I then tried to turn the cams by hand with the timing belt removed, each cam will only move half a turn in both directions ( don't know if that's normal )..
- no scaring on the cams - oil level in the motor is fine.. no metal flakes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the cams are fine also. you have checked the oil pan and oil filter for metal flakes. i would tinik the timing belt just went bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put on a new timing belt and do a compression test
if all fine then you are lucky</TD></TR></TABLE>
doing a compression test doesn't mean start her up and drive away. that would just be my next choice of action
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dayam man , a lot of good info ..
thank a lot guys..
alterd : my friend told me the same thing happened to him and he threw a new timing belt on and got lucky with no bent valves.. even after trying to pop start it and crank it over...
this is a TODA timing belt by the way...
the motor has 12k on it , driven very hard...
4 open track day events and some mountain driving...
watcha think?
thank a lot guys..
alterd : my friend told me the same thing happened to him and he threw a new timing belt on and got lucky with no bent valves.. even after trying to pop start it and crank it over...
this is a TODA timing belt by the way...
the motor has 12k on it , driven very hard...
4 open track day events and some mountain driving...
watcha think?
bent valves might be the problem. when you manually cranked the motor by hand, did you check to see that the cam gears lined up perfectly at TDC?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esohsee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should take the head off and see if you bent any valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Removing the head would destroy the head gasket and take too much time. Why not do a leakdown test/compression test and save yourself the time.
Removing the head would destroy the head gasket and take too much time. Why not do a leakdown test/compression test and save yourself the time.
same problem.. was doing around 60 downshifted to 2
and engine died.. cranked it a couple of times ... turns out took it to the shop.. leakdown and compression were good...timing belt ripped.. and by me cranking it and trying to start it... bent the valves..
.. hope this helps
and engine died.. cranked it a couple of times ... turns out took it to the shop.. leakdown and compression were good...timing belt ripped.. and by me cranking it and trying to start it... bent the valves..
.. hope this helps
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrackSpeedRacing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bent valves might be the problem. when you manually cranked the motor by hand, did you check to see that the cam gears lined up perfectly at TDC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
when I crank the motor by hand the cams only move half a turn then stop , the block will keep rotating.
hence why the teeth of the timing belt ripped..
something in the head seized.. im assuming.
when I was driving on the freeway it was with little throttle pressure , just cruising..
first time the car was driven for a few weeks.
when I crank the motor by hand the cams only move half a turn then stop , the block will keep rotating.
hence why the teeth of the timing belt ripped..
something in the head seized.. im assuming.
when I was driving on the freeway it was with little throttle pressure , just cruising..
first time the car was driven for a few weeks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esohsee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your b16 LMA's might have froze up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't know what you are talking about, its usually best to say nothing. "frozen" or stuck LMA's would do nothing more then cause excessive valvetrain noise and possible vtec rocker arm wear/cam lobe wear if left unrepaired for a long period of time. Considering the amount of noise it would make, this would be hard to not adress.
If you don't know what you are talking about, its usually best to say nothing. "frozen" or stuck LMA's would do nothing more then cause excessive valvetrain noise and possible vtec rocker arm wear/cam lobe wear if left unrepaired for a long period of time. Considering the amount of noise it would make, this would be hard to not adress.
i hear the power timing belts dont last very long.
did you take a 12mm wrench and turn the cams yet?
or you tried it with a wrench and it seized?
did you take a 12mm wrench and turn the cams yet?
or you tried it with a wrench and it seized?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear the power timing belts dont last very long.
did you take a 12mm wrench and turn the cams yet?
or you tried it with a wrench and it seized?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried to put the sprockets tdc but the intake side won't line up..
the block is tdc before I tried this..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't know what you are talking about, its usually best to say nothing. "frozen" or stuck LMA's would do nothing more then cause excessive valvetrain noise and possible vtec rocker arm wear/cam lobe wear if left unrepaired for a long period of time. Considering the amount of noise it would make, this would be hard to not adress. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats funny is my valve train was always super noisy and loud...
i should have looked further into it..
I should have had a adjusted the valves after the first thousand miles...
did you take a 12mm wrench and turn the cams yet?
or you tried it with a wrench and it seized?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried to put the sprockets tdc but the intake side won't line up..
the block is tdc before I tried this..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't know what you are talking about, its usually best to say nothing. "frozen" or stuck LMA's would do nothing more then cause excessive valvetrain noise and possible vtec rocker arm wear/cam lobe wear if left unrepaired for a long period of time. Considering the amount of noise it would make, this would be hard to not adress. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats funny is my valve train was always super noisy and loud...
i should have looked further into it..
I should have had a adjusted the valves after the first thousand miles...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:Reza:. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took the head off today...
wow...
every valve is open and smashed into each other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ouch
wow...
every valve is open and smashed into each other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ouch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about some pics?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
tomorrow morning for sure...
very odd.
</TD></TR></TABLE>tomorrow morning for sure...
very odd.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:Reza:. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took the head off today...
wow...
every valve is open and smashed into each other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn man that suck..... sorry bro.......
wow...
every valve is open and smashed into each other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn man that suck..... sorry bro.......



