92 Accord keeps stalling after it warms up
okay let me explain i just bought my car and yesterday i drove it around it drove fine all day....then that night when i was leaving work i got on the interstate on the way home, it just died so i hit the clutch let off it started back up, then died again so i rolled off the side of the interstate waited about 5 or 10 mins of tryin to start it finally it started i drove it to the nearest gas station. it wouldn't start pulled the plug wires and oil was dripping out of the boot and the plugs were covered in oil, so in the snow i changed the plugs and wires, it started and stopped again about 5 miles up the road, so i went bought another set of plugs and valve cover gasket, changed those in the parking lot in the snow, it started drove home and died about 10 feet from my house, i pulled the valve cover gasket this morning replaced the gromet pieces in it, started it drove fine for about 30 mins, then started to hesitate and died, i let it sit pulled the plugs no oil on them at all, but oil was on top of the valve cover let it sit for about 30 mins, it started back up i revved the motor twice once it started and it died again. can anyone please help me
AND FOR THE RECORD I DRIVE A 92 ACCORD DX
AND FOR THE RECORD I DRIVE A 92 ACCORD DX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TALDRIDGE85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i mean you can hear the motor attempting to turn over, but i would expect that before it wasn't sparking due to the oil soaking the plugs</TD></TR></TABLE>
The spark plug seals are a common thing. The next time it wont start.....check for spark.
The spark plug seals are a common thing. The next time it wont start.....check for spark.
buy better parts, or learn to install them properly. I'm not trying to be a dick, but they only way that wires arc within a couple days is if they were either bad to begin with, or they were installed incorrectly. Also, you need to find out where the oil is coming from first. Clean the engine with degreaser, and fire it back up, and see whats leaking. Theres no sense to change randon parts, its a waste of time and money. Fix it once, and fix it right.
well for one time I would agree with JDM_DC4_Fanatic; a correct diagnose is better than throwing parts at the car.
if you want to go thru some testing you could save some money nd headaches.
if you want to go thru some testing you could save some money nd headaches.
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by arc i meant that i checked for spark and i waited again till it got hot and cut off. and it was getting no spark also pulled the wire from the coil off the distributor to see if it was getting spark after it got hot. and it wasn't so i may have narrowed it down to the something in the coil but i still am not sure. but no more oil being thrown in the plug holes. so i would say that the parts are fine and installed them properly
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a coil/ignitor problem. Are you getting spark?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you even going to check them first, or are you just going to replace them? You can use an ohm meter to check for resistance on the coil to see if it's good or bad. And I believe a voltage meter to check the ICM.
Could also be cracked solder joints on the main relay. Ignitors usually fail for good. When it won't crank, check for voltage on the black and yellow wires on the ignitor with the key on. If you dont get voltage, suspect the main relay.
Listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key on, also. It is fed from the main relay, as well
Listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key on, also. It is fed from the main relay, as well
problem solved....once i took the distributor off it had oil in it...so i would imagine that was causing the ICM or rotor button break up current. i replaced the distributor, and rotor button. no more problems at all...no more idling up and down at start up. and car is running perfect.
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