my final plan... take a look plz..
Ok after searching honda-tech and asking questions I think I have my performance plan. I want to triple check this just because it's a big investment (for me anyway). Any input/comments would be GREATLY appreciated.
My car: 93 Prelude Si h23a 2.3L engine everything stock.
my goals: More horsepower naturally.. don't really get into high rpm's with my car, would just like to be quick off the line.
my plan:
1. Exhaust: Greddy EVO2 catback exhaust - After reading a ton of info about exhausts although expensive a lot seem to agree that greddy is a quality choice.
2: Header: DC Sports header - Again after research it seems that I shouldn't go with a cheap header whatsoever and that DC Sports is a good option to go with.
3: Intake: Having trouble deciding here.. I originally thought of going with aem cold air but having read old posts it seems like that might be a waste of money? I've read just to get the pipe of ebay but then get a really good filter such as K&N? Still not sure of the cold air vs short ram.. your opinion on what would be best with my setup?
4: High flow cat: I recently have been reading that if i'm going to spend money on a good exhaust and header then I must get a good high flow cat..I'd like to use a direct fit becaust I'm going to attempt to do this all myselfand want to avoid any welding/modifying. Research has pointed me towards Carsound direct fit converter...is this a good idea for my setup or will adding this not matter?
That is the end of my current project. My hope is to be able to put this altogether and have a car with slightly more hp and an exhaust that sounds good and not 'ricey'. Is there anything you guys would change or reconsider here? Sorry for asking the same type of questions in my recent posts, but as I come closer to the final decision I feel the need to check it again. If this all goes smoothly I would love to post pictures of my accomplishment.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
My car: 93 Prelude Si h23a 2.3L engine everything stock.
my goals: More horsepower naturally.. don't really get into high rpm's with my car, would just like to be quick off the line.
my plan:
1. Exhaust: Greddy EVO2 catback exhaust - After reading a ton of info about exhausts although expensive a lot seem to agree that greddy is a quality choice.
2: Header: DC Sports header - Again after research it seems that I shouldn't go with a cheap header whatsoever and that DC Sports is a good option to go with.
3: Intake: Having trouble deciding here.. I originally thought of going with aem cold air but having read old posts it seems like that might be a waste of money? I've read just to get the pipe of ebay but then get a really good filter such as K&N? Still not sure of the cold air vs short ram.. your opinion on what would be best with my setup?
4: High flow cat: I recently have been reading that if i'm going to spend money on a good exhaust and header then I must get a good high flow cat..I'd like to use a direct fit becaust I'm going to attempt to do this all myselfand want to avoid any welding/modifying. Research has pointed me towards Carsound direct fit converter...is this a good idea for my setup or will adding this not matter?
That is the end of my current project. My hope is to be able to put this altogether and have a car with slightly more hp and an exhaust that sounds good and not 'ricey'. Is there anything you guys would change or reconsider here? Sorry for asking the same type of questions in my recent posts, but as I come closer to the final decision I feel the need to check it again. If this all goes smoothly I would love to post pictures of my accomplishment.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
My opinion, get a custom exhaust made with a high-flow cat and Magnaflow muffler (resonator if you want it quieter), Megan header from ebay, and ebay short ram with an Apexi or K&N filter.
exhaust - greddy is good no doubt about that. but it would probably be cheaper for u to have a custom mandrel bent 2.5" system made. carsound(magnaflow) highflow cat. have the exhaust shop that builds ur exhaust weld it up for u. as for muffler...im running a borla muffler. its kinda loud but its not ricey its very deep. u can get numerous exhausts to sound good when u have a resonator in ur exhaust too, thatll help with any raspyness. i dont wanna recomend a muffler ill leave that to some1 else bc i hve an odd taste in exhaust sound
header - ur outta ur mind if u wanna get a dc. if u cant afford one of the big guys then either keep ur stock header or try n get ur hands on a greddy and do the 2.5" collector.
intake - ebay pipe, k&n filter, bpi flowstack if u want too
header - ur outta ur mind if u wanna get a dc. if u cant afford one of the big guys then either keep ur stock header or try n get ur hands on a greddy and do the 2.5" collector.
intake - ebay pipe, k&n filter, bpi flowstack if u want too
my $100 ebay megan header has held up just fine. so if you wanna spend the extra $$ on a name-brand, go for it.
2nd: make ABSOLUTELYYYY sure you dont wanna go F/I.
when i first got my prelude, i had 0 intentions on turbo'ing it, then after "wasting" more than a grand on header, exhaust, clutch, and flywheel, i realized i wanted boost, so my CAI and header were pointless, my exhaust is wayy too small for F/I, and i'll be lucky if my clutch holds the power
2nd: make ABSOLUTELYYYY sure you dont wanna go F/I.
when i first got my prelude, i had 0 intentions on turbo'ing it, then after "wasting" more than a grand on header, exhaust, clutch, and flywheel, i realized i wanted boost, so my CAI and header were pointless, my exhaust is wayy too small for F/I, and i'll be lucky if my clutch holds the power
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I also recommend megan header with 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" magnaflow cat, 2.5" custom piping to some muffler of your choice. For the intake I would get an ebay short ram with the 6" BPI velocity stack and K&N filter. I think you will notice quite an improvement with these mods b/c the h23 exahust/header system is total trash.
Good luck buddy!!
Good luck buddy!!
custom exhaust. (n1 flows better)
headers.... (edited)
reworked head
intake manifold
double stacked plenum spacers (black trax has em)
afc
and a few ignition mods.
thats what i'd do anyway
Modified by king_me at 5:52 PM 1/31/2007
headers.... (edited)
reworked head
intake manifold
double stacked plenum spacers (black trax has em)
afc
and a few ignition mods.
thats what i'd do anyway
Modified by king_me at 5:52 PM 1/31/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by king_me »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">custom exhaust. (n1 flows better)
rmf headers
reworked head
intake manifold
double stacked plenum spacers (black trax has em)
afc
and a few ignition mods.
thats what i'd do anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is no RMF header or any custom header for that matter for the h23
rmf headers
reworked head
intake manifold
double stacked plenum spacers (black trax has em)
afc
and a few ignition mods.
thats what i'd do anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is no RMF header or any custom header for that matter for the h23
for everyone suggesting a short ram intake, they actually lose power over stock.
definately go w/ a cold air. if $$ is a concern you can make your own for about $75. and thats including a good cone filter. aluminum intake piping ( straight and angled) and silicone hose is available (cheap) from several different sources although i doubt you will find it on h-t. try google
definately go w/ a cold air. if $$ is a concern you can make your own for about $75. and thats including a good cone filter. aluminum intake piping ( straight and angled) and silicone hose is available (cheap) from several different sources although i doubt you will find it on h-t. try google
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by king_me »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the correction. reading pwns me.
you won't see or feel a diffrence between short ram or cold air</TD></TR></TABLE>
have you tried both on the dyno back to back? better yet, have you tried stock vs. short ram (hot air) on the dyno back to back??
better yet have you tried all three at the track on the same day in the same conditions back to back to back???
cold air allows more hp to be made than warm or hot air, thus why our cars run better in cooler weather. cai<stock<short ram. make that stock w/ a drop in filter
an aluminum cold air intake will heat up. thus heating the air.
an aluminum short ram will do the same thing but has a shorter distance to travel.
short ram flows better than stock.
pcv short ram doesn't heat up like an aluminum one. so air temp isn't a problem.
4" filter with a 4-3" adapter on 3" pvc shortram will allow air to speed up, giving it less time to heat up.
no i havn't ran back to back dyno's. I don't feel like spending 100-150 for dyno runs over 1hp.
Modified by king_me at 3:33 PM 2/1/2007
an aluminum short ram will do the same thing but has a shorter distance to travel.
short ram flows better than stock.
pcv short ram doesn't heat up like an aluminum one. so air temp isn't a problem.
4" filter with a 4-3" adapter on 3" pvc shortram will allow air to speed up, giving it less time to heat up.
no i havn't ran back to back dyno's. I don't feel like spending 100-150 for dyno runs over 1hp.
Modified by king_me at 3:33 PM 2/1/2007
we get more power when its cooler just because cooler air is denser which equals more oxygen per area which equals a leaner mixture which equals more power. I'm more than happy with my SR and BPi stack.
when the car is moving, i highly doubt the temperature difference between cold air and short ram will have THAT much of an effect on the HP result.
but then again i could be talking out my ***.
when the car is moving, i highly doubt the temperature difference between cold air and short ram will have THAT much of an effect on the HP result.
but then again i could be talking out my ***.
no dyno, no problem, try the track.
aluminum does hold heat, BUT..........when your drawing in cold air from outside the engine bay its not going to get as hot as the piping. an aluminum short ram is drawing in already hot as hell air which makes you LOSE power from stock or at best makes the same power due to better flow w/ hotter air.
short ram w/ a good filter will flow better than stock, but add a drop in filter such as an AFE proguard 7 or prodry, AMSOIL nanofiber, or even a k+n to a stock air box and then you have cold air w/ great flow. to beat that just go w/ a CAI
aluminum does hold heat, BUT..........when your drawing in cold air from outside the engine bay its not going to get as hot as the piping. an aluminum short ram is drawing in already hot as hell air which makes you LOSE power from stock or at best makes the same power due to better flow w/ hotter air.
short ram w/ a good filter will flow better than stock, but add a drop in filter such as an AFE proguard 7 or prodry, AMSOIL nanofiber, or even a k+n to a stock air box and then you have cold air w/ great flow. to beat that just go w/ a CAI
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we get more power when its cooler just because cooler air is denser which equals more oxygen per area which equals a leaner mixture which equals more power. I'm more than happy with my SR and BPi stack.
when the car is moving, i highly doubt the temperature difference between cold air and short ram will have THAT much of an effect on the HP result.
but then again i could be talking out my ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good in theory, but if you try it at the track you will have solid proof.
or try a temp probe on the dyno w/ each. make sure to close the hood to keep all that hot engine air in there
you would be suprised what gains can be had by cold air induction vs. warm or hot air.
when the car is moving, i highly doubt the temperature difference between cold air and short ram will have THAT much of an effect on the HP result.
but then again i could be talking out my ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good in theory, but if you try it at the track you will have solid proof.
or try a temp probe on the dyno w/ each. make sure to close the hood to keep all that hot engine air in there
you would be suprised what gains can be had by cold air induction vs. warm or hot air.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds good in theory, but if you try it at the track you will have solid proof.
or try a temp probe on the dyno w/ each. make sure to close the hood to keep all that hot engine air in there
you would be suprised what gains can be had by cold air induction vs. warm or hot air.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my car doesnt have enough power for it to matter in the first place
mr. 276
or try a temp probe on the dyno w/ each. make sure to close the hood to keep all that hot engine air in there
you would be suprised what gains can be had by cold air induction vs. warm or hot air.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my car doesnt have enough power for it to matter in the first place
mr. 276
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by king_me »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not going to spare the brain cells over something so insignificant. There's not gonna be a track run diffrence. But I'll leave it alone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats almost the worst statement i have ever heard. how do you know there will be no difference at the track w/o actually going to the track???
that is what we call bench racing. sitting home and guessing what will happen at the track. have you ever actually gone to the track? or a dyno for that matter??
you guys make it almost impossible for an oldschool guy like myself to come in and school you guys in how to make power w/ these here hondas.
thats almost the worst statement i have ever heard. how do you know there will be no difference at the track w/o actually going to the track???
that is what we call bench racing. sitting home and guessing what will happen at the track. have you ever actually gone to the track? or a dyno for that matter??
you guys make it almost impossible for an oldschool guy like myself to come in and school you guys in how to make power w/ these here hondas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my car doesnt have enough power for it to matter in the first place
mr. 276</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that brought a smile to my face
my car doesnt have enough power for it to matter in the first place
mr. 276</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that brought a smile to my face
you will not notice a gain from coldair to shortram.
yes cold air = more oxygen to burn, but the air is not significantly colder. Look at where a short ram sits. where the filter sits. Its getting plenty "cold air"
pvc pipe short ram for 15-25 dollars will retain hella cooler air than a 75 dollar cold air.
aluminum heats up much easier than pvc piping.
and you're not going to make power from a cold air. throttle response will be a bit better but thats about it.
you're not schooling anyone
cold air on my friends mustang. ran before and after. no sig. difference.
i don't bench race. and why are you questioning whether or not i've been to a track or dyno?
lol
you're a hoot
Modified by king_me at 3:34 PM 2/1/2007
yes cold air = more oxygen to burn, but the air is not significantly colder. Look at where a short ram sits. where the filter sits. Its getting plenty "cold air"
pvc pipe short ram for 15-25 dollars will retain hella cooler air than a 75 dollar cold air.
aluminum heats up much easier than pvc piping.
and you're not going to make power from a cold air. throttle response will be a bit better but thats about it.
you're not schooling anyone
cold air on my friends mustang. ran before and after. no sig. difference.
i don't bench race. and why are you questioning whether or not i've been to a track or dyno?
lol
you're a hoot
Modified by king_me at 3:34 PM 2/1/2007




