ok, the run down. You great guys and gals helped me out with a problem before. Car is a CRX d15b7 with new mpfi swap. pm6 computer. i came across a new distributor for the crx and got her running. The old problem was it would start then die, now it will run fine, no check engine light, but will not go past 4000k. have rechecked wiring again for um-teenth time... This is the first real problem i have had with an mpfi swap...Always worked fine for me before...This car is jinxed. i swear..!!! I was using wrong distributor before. was using an obd1, now it is obd0 from integra 90-91. fit it on head, runs now. The map and tps wires are not mixed up, and no other problems with wiring. have checked schematics and pin outs for ecu and still cant seem to find problem...someone told me it could be in limp mode where crank angle sensor is not right or cylinder position sensor is screwed up or not wired right...? A little help would be much appreciated...thanks in advance, Bill.

 

sounds like limp mode did you reset the ecu from the old cel?

 

what old cel and how do you reset pm6 ecu..? thanks.

 

to reset the ecu, just unhook the battery for about 20 seconds, and then hook it back up. you can also pull some fuse on the passenger side shock tower, but i never figured out which one it was.

and, do you still have a check engine light? or is it gone now?

either way, reset your ecu and youll probably be in good shape.

 

have never had a check engine light...and have reset the ecu just like that many times. still have rev problem. feels like i hit fuel cut at 3500 - 4000 k and thats as far as it will go. have checked ecu codes on computer and it says that there is nothing wrong. the car is a 88 crx d15b7 mpfi swap integra dizzy and pm6 automatic computer from integra. will the automatic ecu pm6 from teg make it do that..? thanks, bill.

 

the pm6 is the 88-91 civic si computer. if it is an automatic ecu, then you should be getting a auto trans lockup solenoid check engine light. if you arent, and your computer IS a auto pm6, that means it has been converted, which could also mean that the ecu might have been chipped. this is a huge longshot, but i think the ecu might have been reprogrammed with launch control, which will cause that fuel cut at 4000rpm if the car is stationary. over 8 mph the ecu will turn off launch control and you will be able to go above 4k rpm.

if you have only ever tested it in the garage, take it for a short drive.. and hopefully youll get above 4k rpm when your car is above 8mph.

 

i pulled the ecu straight out at the junkyard...it was a 1990 acura integra running perfect condition. it was a b18 automatic. then i put it into my crx with mpfi swap...the code on the ecu is pm6. i have done this before, but it was a longshot that maybe, just maybe, it is acting this way do to it was an automatic before hand. But that still would not explain the wont rev past 4000k...basically it's in limp mode...i have run all the according wires correctly for mpfi swap yet it' acting like there is no crank (or) cyl position sensor what so ever. it will only rev to 4000k standing still or driving down the road, any gear it does this...this is what i am having a hard time figuring out why in the world it would do this...Does anyone think it could be the tps..? I have not ohm'd it out yet to see what it is at...Thanks in advance, Bill.

 

maybe try a know good dizzy and see if you problems go away

 

yeah, or a known good ecu

 

Something is wrong with the ecu. IT's in limp-mode. Try a different one. or take both cables off the battery, and touch them together to drain all power out of the system quickly. Then connect them again and see what happens.

 

this was all pulled out of a running car that had no check engine lights and pulled very hard, idled smooth...no problems...But i swapped with another ecu and dizzy, then mismatched and still same old thing...will hit limp mode...Still don't understand what is wrong with this honda...! And yet no check engine light, no thrown ecu codes. just blinking light on the ecu. standard ecu check on both. so what else you guys/gals have for me...i'm out of ideas and the wiring is correct. When the car was dpfi it ran fine. Timing is right, firing order, everything is hooked up correctly and there are no loose/broken wires anywhere. I'm at a lost, and the worst thing is i've done this swap several times on my other honda's and yet this one has got me stumped. Appreciate the help, disgruntled in Illinois.

 

i went thru problems that sound kinda like that. but not with the dpfi to mpfi conversion on my old hatchback. instead it was on my rex. it turned out to be the dizzy and the iac. check out ur iac. its worth a shot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spidy005 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i pulled the ecu straight out at the junkyard...it was a 1990 acura integra running perfect condition. it was a b18 automatic. then i put it into my crx with mpfi swap...the code on the ecu is pm6. i have done this before, but it was a longshot that maybe, just maybe, it is acting this way do to it was an automatic before hand. But that still would not explain the wont rev past 4000k...basically it's in limp mode...i have run all the according wires correctly for mpfi swap yet it' acting like there is no crank (or) cyl position sensor what so ever. it will only rev to 4000k standing still or driving down the road, any gear it does this...this is what i am having a hard time figuring out why in the world it would do this...Does anyone think it could be the tps..? I have not ohm'd it out yet to see what it is at...Thanks in advance, Bill.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I thought that the pm6 came out of a 88-91 civic/crx si.

You need to get a dizzy from a 88-91civic/crx si

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spidy005 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this was all pulled out of a running car that had no check engine lights and pulled very hard, idled smooth...no problems...But i swapped with another ecu and dizzy, then mismatched and still same old thing...will hit limp mode...Still don't understand what is wrong with this honda...! And yet no check engine light, no thrown ecu codes. just blinking light on the ecu. standard ecu check on both. so what else you guys/gals have for me...i'm out of ideas and the wiring is correct. When the car was dpfi it ran fine. Timing is right, firing order, everything is hooked up correctly and there are no loose/broken wires anywhere. I'm at a lost, and the worst thing is i've done this swap several times on my other honda's and yet this one has got me stumped. Appreciate the help, disgruntled in Illinois.</TD></TR></TABLE>

post your dpfi-&gt; mpfi conversion pinout, maybe you wired something wrong. Did u switch the white wires on the dizzy plug by accident?

 

can you post or email a picture of the ecu sticker? because.. pm6 came in the 88-91 civic si <U>only</U>. and if the ecu is a automatic, you should be getting a check engine light for an auto trans lockup solenoid..

the ecu last 3 characters should be something like -A50 or higher.. -A52 is the most common, and that is what designates that the ecu is a automatic ecu.

either way, this story doesn't add up..

edit:.. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spidy005 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this was all pulled out of a running car that had no check engine lights and pulled very hard, idled smooth...no problems...But i swapped with another ecu and dizzy, then mismatched and still same old thing...will hit limp mode...Still don't understand what is wrong with this honda...! And yet no check engine light, no thrown ecu codes. just blinking light on the ecu. standard ecu check on both. so what else you guys/gals have for me...i'm out of ideas and the wiring is correct. When the car was dpfi it ran fine. Timing is right, firing order, everything is hooked up correctly and there are no loose/broken wires anywhere. I'm at a lost, and the worst thing is i've done this swap several times on my other honda's and yet this one has got me stumped. Appreciate the help, disgruntled in Illinois. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if the led on the ecu is blinking, it means there is a stored check engine code that hasnt been cleared

 

i had the same exact problem when i had mine crx swapped. i had wiring problems. i paid $200 for a new dizzy and it didn't fix it. so i went back and checked on my wiring. the CPS sensor wires weren't in all the way on the ecu harness. and once i fixed that it could rev past 4k. that was my fix. hope it helps out

 

Make sure your MAP sensor is connected to a vaccum source and is plugged into the harness.

 

ok today...i took my friends distributor and installed it on my car and still nothing. Still will not rev past 4000k. Installed my integra distributor on his car and his purred like a kitten and would rev past 4000k. The ecu is definetely a pm6 that came out of an automatic integra, i would post pictures, but the question is how to..? As for the cps wires being wrong or disconnected, i have re-pined them today and still same old story.
Wire conversion was as follows: b10-b12 empty c1-c2 orange wire and white wire. c1 and c2 go to distributor as blue/green blue/yellow old c1-c2 go to b10 and b12. tps wires switch around, aka yellow and green flipped. a3+a7 go to the new found injectors. Am i correct so far, or have i made a grave mistake? Thanks again, Bill.
P.S. also have attempted a pm7 computer and a ecu from a crx si 1990 variety, all known and tested working ecu's.

 

sorry one more thing...The vaccum source for the map is good and also the red led blinking on the ecu is one long flash every few seconds. Have reset the ecu many times now and still same old, unless i am reading the ecu codes wrong..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spidy005 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wire conversion was as follows: b10-b12 empty c1-c2 orange wire and white wire. c1 and c2 go to distributor as blue/green blue/yellow old c1-c2 go to b10 and b12. tps wires switch around, aka yellow and green flipped. a3+a7 go to the new found injectors. Am i correct so far, or have i made a grave mistake? Thanks again, Bill.
P.S. also have attempted a pm7 computer and a ecu from a crx si 1990 variety, all known and tested working ecu's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds good maybe your dizzy wires are fucked up

 

Ok, will test those puppies out tonight, because i definently know it is not the dizzy itself nor the ecu. It's just driving me nuts why this poor little honda is having so much trouble. thanks.

 

any luck on ur car??my dpfi-mpfi hb is doing the same exact thing.i dont know how to check codes for my car because it has an obd1 swap in it...dizzy...ecu...o2 sensor..jumper harness.