Ok my set up is this. Mugen lowdowns, JDM rear upper bar, alignment is within factory specs. I have always thought my rear was just TOO tight. When I say tight, I mean that in turns, no matter it i was full throttle, half throttle, my rear end always seemed to want to come around...and i know that the ITR is known for that and rotating and if you lift off the throttle it will come around blah blah blah...but it always seemed that my back end was so tight that no matter how I took a corner it would never stay planted.

Ive played with my lowdown settings...nothing really changed.

Well I finally said to myself, I'll just take off the rear bar and see if that doesnt losen the back end a bit more to allow some flex or what ever. Well for some reason it did! I have driven around all week to test the theory on all the turns I take on a daily basis...especially the on and off ramp turns I take to go to work.

Where before I was going thru these turns at about 50-60mph with the back end ready to come around...I'm now doing it at a comfortable 75-80mph with the car planted like glue! Not sure if its in my head or what...but the car feels much more stable now...I'll keep testing it out, but I just wanted to share my thoughts and experience.

 

Have you tried adjusting your tire pressures too? Maybe upgrade your front upper bar to something stiffer than stock...

 

You need a front Mugen bar.

 

Loose is better

PB - who likes manhandling FF oversteer BOOYAA

 

I have kept my tire pressures the same. 34psi all the way around.

I would like a Mugen front bar but Sean wont sell it , much like those GSR seats he's holding for ransom!

 

I'll let you touch it at the next autoX. Actually, I can't use the mugen bar since it plows with the bar at the autoX. You're more than welcome to try it out with your jdm rear bar. I want to see if the bar actually makes a difference.

 

Mugen front bar makes me Smile every time I open my hood

 

Spoon front bar blinds me everytime I open my hood. Bling bling!

 

RatedR: Same thing happened with me. I had a spoon rear upper strut bar which the quality is sorry imo and a waste of money. Everytime I took a cornor hard it felt like the back end wanted to come around or it felt like massive body roll from the rear. Once I took off the rear strut bar the car turns sooo much better. Imo, everyone should ditch the rear upper struts.

 

On the street I would agree with you but on the course, it's more helpfull to be able to rotate the rear.

 

Rotation to a degree is faster on many CORNERS (TRACK)

 

***Sorry for bringing this back from the dead***

I have a related question,

My car tends to feel way more oversteery than it understeers. If i go hard enough my car will over steer.

Is this my driving style or the way my car is? And is it supposed to be like this?

I've been told by others that my car may require a wheel alignment - this makes alot of sense considering the amount of times i've hit the kerbs.. and smacked over huge pot holes in the past.

the way i enter a corner (ie a round about) is usually that i enter it relatively slowly but as i'm negotiating through it i go at abit of speed (NEVER lift the gas) but the back end keeps getting nervous and if i go hard enough through there it will come out.


As a result i have alot more experience dealing with oversteer than i do understeer. The understeer usually only occurs when from taking off (like getting into the round about) too hard and slight loss of traction at the front wheels.

I have NO rear upper strut bar at ALL but i intend on getting one soon....

Does this mean my car is going to oversteer even more?

I would really like my car to be alittle bit more neutral.. do i need to fix my car... or my driving?

i'm on 38psi all round.

 

isn't 38 psi a bit high????

-Bryan-

 

First get an alignment... then test it... and then repost. It is amazing what 1/16th of an inch can do for handling.

 

~35psi front
~32psi rear

check the alignment... zero front toe and the max toe out to stay with-in the stock limits on the rear.

It is amazing what a toe adjustment will do for road feel. I had mine adjusted last weekend and love it.

Testing this weekend (and weekend after next) at VIR.

 

It's amazing, this is the exact opposite of what Trey posted to ITRCA in regards to the handling of his ITR after he removed the rear strut bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's amazing, this is the exact opposite of what Trey posted to ITRCA in regards to the handling of his ITR after he removed the rear strut bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same thing Jeff. I did however remove the B-pillar camera bar at the same time and can't attribute it to one bar or the other directly. I did find that having the bars in there provided the rear much more grip (opposite of TJ's problem) and it prevented almost 100% of the rotation I now have.

 

WOW, so it's not my driving!


Also, my rear tyres are wearing out faster than the front.

 

MyYellowHonda - does your R come with JDM rear sway bar? If so, you'll definitely get more oversteer with just enough aggressiveness on the turns. But, first thing first, have your alignment checked out. I would do zero toe up front if you don't competitively race your car.

 

Sorry for that noobie question again.. but could you give me a quick/brief explaination of what is meant by "toe" adjustment?

It sounds like it's to do with the wheel alignment and ultimately how oversteery/understeery it is..

So zero toe up front, implies less stiff, implies more understeer, implies less oversteer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MyYellowHonda - does your R come with JDM rear sway bar? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know... but my guess is it'd be the same as USDM/UKDM if they are the same..

 

Sean, I think I woudl recommend 1/8" (3.175mm) toe out in the front and Zero toe in the rear for a non competitive car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RATEDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok my set up is this. Mugen lowdowns, JDM rear upper bar, alignment is within factory specs. I have always thought my rear was just TOO tight. When I say tight, I mean that in turns, no matter it i was full throttle, half throttle, my rear end always seemed to want to come around...and i know that the ITR is known for that and rotating and if you lift off the throttle it will come around blah blah blah...but it always seemed that my back end was so tight that no matter how I took a corner it would never stay planted.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the whole point in making the rear more stiff, so it will oversteer (rear end loose)... better for racing....understeer is probably what your comfortable with and is a feature on most oem vehicles.

 

toe is how the tires are pointed.

example: / \ would be negative toe (toe in) where the front tires are pointed inward/towards each other.
\ / would be positive toe (toe out)where the front tires are pointing away from each other.
| | would be zero toe where the front tires are parallel to each other.