along with the tubing bender, I also built up a set of rolling stands and bumper brackets to allow my CRX to be spun around 360 degrees (rotisserie style). All material used was 2.5" x 0.25" wall square tubing. 800 lb capacity casters are used (3 per stand). I've only got some pictures of the fab process and completed/painted units. I will try to get some better pictures of it in place and with the bumper brackets as well.

Basically works like an engine stand. Pins can be installed at 0, 90, 180, 270, 360 degrees.

 

Great !
you made it Heavy Fu%!@k'n duty...

now you got to build another one identical, and the adapter to bolt on the shock tower in the back and in the front on the engine stand!

now what's your plan for this rotisserie, what restoration project you plan on ??

great work ! keep it up!
nice weld's too!

Kranked

 

Looks good but it seems a little undersized to me.

 

prolly a stupid ??? but how exactly do you secure the car and how do you get the whole car to the level you need to mount it?

 

i was thinking it is a bit small as well. wouldn't you want it to be almost as wide as the car going on it? otherwise it looks nice!

 

It is a bit wider than it may appear. The base is 48" wide with a 40" runner coming forward. The distance between the center line of the rotation point up top and the bottom forward runner is 46", allowing a vehicle of up to ~90" wide. I'm very confident that I won't have any issues of supporting the cars weight or size at any angle. The supporting peices that mount to the car are done and installed and their design is such that it puts the rotational axis as close to the CG as possible. This allows the car to rotate easier and provide less rotational forces when locked in 90/270 degree.

To raise the car to slide the car mount into the stand requires that I use a engine hoist I have on one end, and a ceiling mounted 2000 lb cap strap. Steps include raise car on jack stands, remove wheels, support one end with strap, raise other end with hoist and strap, move hoist to other end and raise and insert car mount into stand, move hoist back to other end and raise and inser second car mount into stand - Done This process isn't the easiest, but I don't mind the steps. I imagine it would take about 30 minutes to complete.

Reason behind this is I plan on cleaning up the bottom side of the car, designing new custom exhaust, and underbody pans/defuser.

 

In for pics with the car on the spinner.

Nice setup man.. Pretty straight forward.

 

what kind of car??

I have built a few rotisseries and though your setup looks fine, its not going to be fun raising your car up...

Here are some plans that use a hydraulic jack to lift the car. Its for a mustang but same principal

http://home.comcast.net/~bossbill/rotisserie/

 

How are you gonna make sure the frame is completely square when youre welding on it? If youre welding in braces for stiffness shouldnt it be on a jig to make sure nothing warps?

 

The car isn't going to go up on the rotisserie until I finish building a 8-point cage for it this spring. All welding will be done with the car supported with stands on the frame with a maintained height. Once on the rotisserie, I don't plan on doing any welding on the car, other than cleaning up some cosmetic things along the underbody. The main purpose is to have a good angle/working environment to wire wheel the underbody/wheel wells, and allow easy fabbing of exhaust and aero panels.

I had seen that mustang site with that integrated lift. Good idea, but I thought I would have better success with the shop lift for my app.

 

Question how the hell do you get a car up on a rotisserie.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andy R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To raise the car to slide the car mount into the stand requires that I use a engine hoist I have on one end, and a ceiling mounted 2000 lb cap strap. Steps include raise car on jack stands, remove wheels, support one end with strap, raise other end with hoist and strap, move hoist to other end and raise and insert car mount into stand, move hoist back to other end and raise and inser second car mount into stand - Done This process isn't the easiest, but I don't mind the steps. I imagine it would take about 30 minutes to complete.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

you dont really weld on them while on a rotisserie..they are mainly for detail purposes. Lots of classic car guys do it to do finish welds for new floorpans and use them for easy cleaning of the undercarriage.

The rotisseries are not built to hold a full cars weight though. The most I ahve had one one was a 69 mustang body with suspension... not made for a full interior/motor/tranny/suspension on it

 

not to mention you really don't want to have the engine/trans in there when rotating it considering oil will go everywhere

 

Here is a drawing/Pic of the one my customer made to work on his 37 panel. It is kind of self explanatory!






These two use hydraulic rams to lift and lower the project for ease. Pretty straight forward to build and use.

 

I'd hit it.

 

Rotisseries FTW!

 

very nice! High five!

 

Took some pics in the cold of how the car has been sitting for a while. I won't get to start working on it until march/april.

 

That's awesome. I'd love to have the room to do this. Quality looks It looks better than the engine stand I bought from Advance.

 

Good work!

You may find though (as i did) that those mounting points on the body are not strong enough to hold the cars weight without bending significantly... this may not matter in some cars (particularly older muscle cars), but since those points also mount the bumpers in our cars, any misalignment will mean that the bumpers won't line up either when you reinstall them in the end... just some thoughts.

Here was my solution:



This rack mounts to the (much stronger) suspension points...

 

Thanks for the suggestions!

I think the front mount should be pretty beafy, and I can also add a plate to the front mount that will pick up the two bolt holes on top for each side. I have been a little worried about the back mounting points though. I was hoping since the bracket is a fixed size and is level horrizontally, that once installed/slipped into the stand, it would keep it from putting any forces that would cause the body at the mounting locations to bend.

Since you obviously have experience with the EF body, do you have any specific ideas for the rear bracket that I could modify the existing unit to run an arm to a beefier mounting point in the closest proximety. Preferably a point that can be used without having to remove any suspension items. When I get a chance, i'll have to go check out the car.

I'm also considering modifying the stands to include the long ram hydraulic jack. I'l have to make some calculations, but I think I should be able to cut the existing verticle square tube at about 23", and weld the top circular tube to a new peice of square tube 24" one size smaller so it will slide inside of the other. then drill some holes at the desired hight so I can install pins once it is jacked high enough.

 

wow, that's awesome.