I have a 91 accord F22A. The engine is being completely rebuilt, all new seals gaskets and sensors. I'm getting a p/p with a 3 angle valve job, stainless steel valves, titanium retainers, dual rate springs, new pistons and rods, lightened knife edged crank, unorthodox racing light weight crank pulley, OBX cam gear (not sure what cam to go with), RC injectors 750CC, not sure what engine managment to go with either. I'm looking to shoot for around 350hp. Can anyone give me some ideas about a good turbo for my engine?? Thanks

 

http://www.secureleadercom.com...block

 

Is it better to swap the f22 for a h22 then turbo it? Im kinda jumping in with a new question but, I think it would be easier to achive the wanted HP gains from a turbo'd H22 than from a turbo'd f22... Any ideas about that??

 

Do research, there's 2 tons of info on the subject.

f22's are known for being able to handle turbos better without as much building of the block/head as they are I believe cast iron? vs the h22's aluminum

 

Ahhh, So, The f22 is better than the h22 in some ways. Good to know for me seeing how i want to do turbo on my 95 accord in the future. What is the estimated hp on a turbo'd f22/f23? sorry for being lazy and not lookin for the answer

 

haha not a problem really, just it's all been said

H22 you HAVE to build the head/block to hold a good amount of boost, but 400hp - 500hp is do-able on those (there's a white one that's build h22 + turbo = 500 hp)

F22 is a bit more budget and from what I've seen/read can do 200-250 horsepower with minimal building of the head. I'm sure they can go higher with building of it


Some people do a Frankenstein g22 = f22 block + h22 head and build the head and then turbo and those hold up decently well

 

So do you think it would get him his wanted 350 hp from the F22? Would there be more mods needed to get that high up on that motor/car?

 

how much is this rebuild costing?

 

350 hp at the crank or the wheels? T3/T4 claims a 75-100 hp gain safely on the stock engine. So that's going to put you in the ballpark of 230 or so. Definitely need to build up the engine (F22) if you're going to put a big enough turbo on it to boost it to 350 hp. the H22A goes for about 220 hp stock, so you could turbo that with some engine buildup and probably hit 350. Why in the world does he want 350 hp out of his accord, is this strictly a racing application?

 

from what i hear f22 are high compresion so u dont wana run to much boost, and some with h22. they say h23s are the best turbo motors

 

when i researched on this topic found that turbo can give upto 50% boost

now what i am curious to know is how can one get 500hp from a h22
does it have something to do with the fuel too ?

and even i have a f22 where to find a turbo and how much it costs plz help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c.dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i researched on this topic found that turbo can give upto 50% boost

now what i am curious to know is how can one get 500hp from a h22
does it have something to do with the fuel too ?

and even i have a f22 where to find a turbo and how much it costs plz help</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much power the turbo can provide all depends on how much boost you run. Bigger turbo=more boost=more power.
For 500 HP on a H22, yes, it has just as much to do with the fuel as it does with the air (from the turbo). Or you could just run a 300 shot of nitrous on your H22. Once. You'd get at least 500 HP.
You have you get bigger injectors to run more fuel, and a modified or piggyback ECU to adjust your timing curve since you're shoving so much more air into the engine, the fuel supply has to be able to match it for optimum performance, and the ECU controls the fuel supply.
A popular turbo for the F22 is the Turbonetics T3/T4 hybrid. (claimed power = 210 hp @ 8 psi) Plan on spending around 3-4 grand, if you're going to install it yourself. If you piece a kit together yourself or buy used you could save money, but if you buy the kit you know everything will fit correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themurrell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i hear f22 are high compresion so u dont wana run to much boost, and some with h22. they say h23s are the best turbo motors</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow that seems very i guess wrong, depends what compression of f22 you have they vary a bit from about 8.8 to 9.2?? anyway the f22 has cast iron sleeves, and the h series have aluminum sleeves, basically cast iron are way stronger. i have seen a accord with a f22 in it push 12 psi all day and sadly was only tuned with a FMU, so it was likely to run lean or rich at times. so i suggest doing a f22 block for boost unless you are balla status and can afford to sleeve the h22. the bore on a h22 is higher compression too. at 10.4to 10.6 for usdm and right at 11.0 for a jdm (usually) just my words of advice from a lil research

 

wow there is alot of misinformation in this thread and I dont know were to start or finish.

the f22 is not high compression in the world of boosted honda's or honda motors in general... rather it has very forced induction friendly compression imo (8.8:1 to just over 9:1 in the various f22 series of motors) among other attributes that are benficial (such as the iron sleeves).

also you would not ness. need any headwork to push 350hp out of f series... although it would make a hp goal more easily reached at slightly lower boost levels. rather a properly tuned turbo setup with a bigger turbo able to support that hp goal (and of course the required supporting mods, fuel upgrades and what have you) would do it.

I would not go to an h22 for only a 350hp boost build... seems to me to be more a novelty idea than a practical one.

personally I know of 335 to the wheels (which is more than 350hp at the crank), on a stock valvecover to pan f22. it had no more than a custom turbo kit, fuel upgrades, and proper fuel management/ tuning.

too little credit is given to the f series and I dont need to change anyone mind about it... its just my 2 cents here.

on to the turbo question... turbo selection could range from a variety of capable units depending on what your intended application of this power is. ie... road racing or daily driving you might want to consider something of a more reasonable size/ spool time than you would with a weekend warrior or drag race setup (although at a slight trade off in cost or more boost needed). so whats your intended use of this setup?


Modified by twkdCD595 at 7:29 PM 2/7/2007

 

well then why are u talkin about 8 pounds and 10 pounds and my freinds eclipse runs 15 pounds

 

that means absolutely nothing without the type of turbo, it's been said a trillion times before that 15 lbs on a t4 is not the same as say on a smaller turbo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha not a problem really, just it's all been said

H22 you HAVE to build the head/block to hold a good amount of boost, but 400hp - 500hp is do-able on those (there's a white one that's build h22 + turbo = 500 hp)

F22 is a bit more budget and from what I've seen/read can do 200-250 horsepower with minimal building of the head. I'm sure they can go higher with building of it


Some people do a Frankenstein g22 = f22 block + h22 head and build the head and then turbo and those hold up decently well</TD></TR></TABLE>

As of this being said, what about h23 block and h22 head in a 6th gen? My cousin was going to try this in his 92 lude but totaled his car the day he was going to pick up the block.

 

forced induction forum would be my vote haha, I just know all that stuff from what I've read/seen on here and AD

 

My final intentions for the car is to be somewhat of a daily driver but I will be at the track doing some road racing on the weekends. The 350HP goal is just what I thought a reasonable power goal would be.

 

Yeah I would say that I heard the same thing about the Fs having cast iron instead of aluminum thus making it better to turbo. Makes sense to me.

 

Also, 350 HP is not unheard of for honda's by any means but, it does take extra effort. Rebuilding the engine, the tranny, the frame, and you probably need to put NOS as well as FI. Im not sure, but isnt super charging better for the 1/4 mile when a car has NOS. Less lag in pick up than its cousin the turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jondrethegiant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, 350 HP is not unheard of for honda's by any means but, it does take extra effort. Rebuilding the engine, the tranny, the frame, and you probably need to put NOS as well as FI. Im not sure, but isnt super charging better for the 1/4 mile when a car has NOS. Less lag in pick up than its cousin the turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good God, you don't need "NOS" to get 350 whp out of an f series. "Rebuilding the frame"??? WTF?

 

/end thread

This is a bunch of misguided he said, she said, and 'I saw on F&F' bull.

 

Woops, I forgot to put that I was switching to another HP range with that line. I was talking about 500+ HP out of a Honda. I think that was mentioned earlier. So, yeah, WTF. Sorry, didnt mean to make you **** your pants over there Hando. Relax, take your meds, and go for a drive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jondrethegiant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Woops, I forgot to put that I was switching to another HP range with that line. I was talking about 500+ HP out of a Honda. I think that was mentioned earlier. So, yeah, WTF. Sorry, didnt mean to make you **** your pants over there Hando. Relax, take your meds, and go for a drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a tech forum so I'd rather not read any posts that sound like they came out of a movie. You have to admit, your post sounded completely retarded