My h23 is running pretty damn rich right now, and seems to have kind of a misfire(not to mention shitty gas mileage in town)..instead of a steady rumble out of the exhaust when its idling it kind of puffs and hickups every once in a while sending out a puff of black smoke....now ive done numerious repairs to this car and it still hasnt fixed the fuel problem, i also checked the timing and its going crazy, from WAY advanced to WAY retarded..heres what i have done..

1.new distributor
2.new knock sensor
3.new map sensor
4.new 02 sensor (which is probably toast by now)
5.new denso plat plugs
6.new OE wires
7.new iac
8.new cap/rotor
9:new fuel filter

the only thing i have not changed on it is the ignition coil and the entire fuel system to solve the problem...the guy i bought it from had some headwork done, the valves tick because they arent seated properly and one of my mechanics suggested that might be forcing some of the gas out during overlap...but then again its misfiring so im totally lost..no code just a 43 (fuel system), but the timing is what has got me stumped i can always change fuel system components. anyone have a similar issue, that they might have resolved? thanks

edit: i forgot to mention that i have already tried resetting the ecu but to no avail.

 

Using any type of engine management or the stock ecu?

 

stock ecu, just boltons and some port and polishing..thats it.

 

Could be the valve issue. That is something that you should have fixed, regardless.

Are you considering something like crome or Hondata for tuning (air-fuel ratio)?

 

i was planning on crome for my a/f tuning, instead of wasting money a vafc that doesnt really do much for my car. So honestly the valves could screw up timing like that?

 

ok im reading up on the valve adjustment procedure, when i do this..will i need to take off the crank bolt? or do i just put a torque wrench on there and move the crank to "tdc" for each cylinder as stated in the manual? its a little fuzzy on how im supposed to move things..

 

You only need to use the crank pulley bolt to turn it over to TDC on each cylinder. Check your cat. If it's plugged it will run like poorly too. Otherwise put a wideband O2 sensor on there and see what it's really doing. If it is rich then look into tuning it with Crome and a P28. Be sure the previous owner did not try to install some sort of chip in the P14 ECU.

If you plan to do extensive modification to your car/engine I would recommend a Helm manual. They have proven to be invaluable in many situations.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/pr...75B27

 

alright thanks for the advice, im gonna take care of that **** today...after the temperature goes above 25*

 

Timing going all over indicates that the ecu is having a hard time figuring out what load the engine is under.....make sure your map sensor is connected, and that the vac line it is connected to is sound...

Are the cams still stock?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timing going all over indicates that the ecu is having a hard time figuring out what load the engine is under.....make sure your map sensor is connected, and that the vac line it is connected to is sound...

Are the cams still stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup cams are stock, i didnt feel like idling at 2.5k rpm so i decided not to install any at this point..the map sensor is brand new and i connected it myself bolted it to the firewall and seated the vac hose properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup cams are stock, i didnt feel like idling at 2.5k rpm so i decided not to install any at this point..the map sensor is brand new and i connected it myself bolted it to the firewall and seated the vac hose properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you closely inspected the pins on the MAP sensor connector? Those things can get corroded or broken....just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you closely inspected the pins on the MAP sensor connector? Those things can get corroded or broken....just a thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm another thing for me to check out, thanks

 

****** egr bolts are stuck, i have to go to sears and get some of those bolt breaker sockets (the ones with the little sharp *** teeth). gay

 

i found the god damn problem..after all that crap i did to the motor and all that money spent..it was a vac line! the vac line that ran into the map sensor! i checked it right where the line meets the map...what i neglected to check was the line leading from the T junction to the metal vac line along the firewall..there was a tiny tear right where the metal and rubber lines meet! As soon as i cut and advanced that...the car ran like a dream..instant throttle response no more black smoke and no more ****** shitty gas mileage! WOOT! problem solved..expletive vac leaks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timing going all over indicates that the ecu is having a hard time figuring out what load the engine is under.....make sure your map sensor is connected, and that the vac line it is connected to is sound...

Are the cams still stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

w00t

can i gets a cookie?

 

you get an A+