ok so u guys might remember me posting about the torque killing my car... well i finally got the mount fixed, the new subframe put in, and i had to get a new control arm as myne got stuck in the subframe kuzz the bolt broke. anywho.. we get the motor dropped in and plug back in all the wires.. start the car and it doesnt start first try, or second, on the third it kinda idled for a second... then 4th try it idled but it still jumps from 1500 rpms to 2600 rpms non stop when its ideling... were thinking a new throttle body will fix that HUGE vacuum leak...

ok now my questions come.

why does my vtec no longer work.?
the check engine light is on.
and why the hell to i literally have to SLAM it into every gear?

and if i just brought this thing to a racing shop can someone tell me an honest guess on what i would be paying for them to make this thing run like a normal car? 600? 800? i just want it to drive and idle right!?!?!

 

first step is to get that CEL checked out and fixed!

Not trying to point you out specifically, but why do people get CEL's and not check them? (If you did check it and simply didn't mention what it was, my apologies)

 

Gibsanez is right, the CEL you need to fix and also if you have any and I mean ANY CEL on, Vtec does NOT work. Buddy had no o2 on a b6 he traded for, couldnt figure out why no vtec, found out it doesn't work if a CEL is on... Hope this helps! What kind of motor is it? b16 b18c?

Usuaully the jumping idle is the vaccum hose on the back side of the intake manifold probably got unplugged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dephtone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gibsanez is right, the CEL you need to fix and also if you have any and I mean ANY CEL on, Vtec does NOT work. Buddy had no o2 on a b6 he traded for, couldnt figure out why no vtec, found out it doesn't work if a CEL is on... Hope this helps! What kind of motor is it? b16 b18c?

Usuaully the jumping idle is the vaccum hose on the back side of the intake manifold probably got unplugged.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Vtec will still engage with a check engine light it depends on which one it is.

 

well in my case i have the check engine that makes my vtec stop working.. kuzz i can drive for about 5 minutes and then a CEL comes on and my vtec doesnt work. although.. it still is pretty damn fast non vtec.. is it about what an LS non vtec would be like ?? i mean when my vtec is out anyways.

 

What code is it

 

Check your code!

 

i dont know how!!! should i go to like shucks? does it matter that there is a p28 chipped ecu in the car?

 

archive search -
"Your search for check cel returned 124 results."

 

would the fact that i have 2 leaking injectors be the problem? could the motor not sence there is enough fuel and set that light off?

 

Its sounds like to me by the way your describing your problem that your iacv is iether not plugged in or not working properly.

 

whats the code dude

 

Do you have a code 14?

 

i brought it to a place but they said they didnt have to run a code. they new it was my fast idle valve. i found the valve on hondas site but its like 80 bucks. then i looked on ebay and found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

what hurt would it do for me to make one of those from scratch and try to plug it?
the guy showed me that when he put his finger over that hole in my throttle body that the car idles correctly. thats how he knew that was the problem. and he said its throwing a code and putting my car in " limp mode" ( no vtec ) he also saw i had a small injector leak. which sucks kuzz i have no clue how to do injectors. lol

 

anyone ever heard of the fast idle valve blocker?

 

I fab'd a FITV blockoff plate on my LS. No pictures though. Car ran fine without it.

 

it ran perfect while it was plugged. im gunna try it and baby the car around and see if a CEL comes on. just in the meantime while i save for a new throttle body.

 

I don't understand how it could be the FITV. The only lines going into that assembly under the throttle body is 2 coolant lines, that's it. And even if it was "faulty", it won't toss a code because there's no wires or plug running to it. The dude up top got it right...IACV. Not only does it connect to the intake manifold, but it also has a plug as well as 2 coolant lines going into it. More than likely you have the plug for IACV and IAT switched around, seeing that both sensors have identical looking plugs, and the IAT won't toss a code usually because they both read the same voltage range. IACV will usually make the car run like crap...fluctating idle, cel, no vtec, etc. Try swapping the plugs around first, then go buy yourself or download a workshop manual for your motor.

 

the plugs couldnt be mixed up kuzz they wont reach if i try switching. the 2 vacuum line hose connectors dont have lines hooked to them.

 

Sorry newbie question here, how do you know if the plugs are mixed up? I just purchased a crx b16 and its idling around 1800 warm, 2000 cold. All the help i can get would be appreciated. Thanks

 

So just curious if you fixed your leaking injectors and your clutch cable not being adjusted right?

 

Is it a solid idle? No bouncing? Sounds like it just needs an adjustment.

 

thread is over 2 years old, WOOT!

 

Yeah it's solid, when cold its at 2,000 for around 30 sec's then drops and maintains at 1800, no jumping or un-steadyness. What would you suggest i look at to adjust? Thanks for your help

 

wtf guys? bringing up a dead thread. newbies.