So I had some odd ball clunk every once in awhile at the front end of my car when I'd slow to a stop and immediately accelerate and thought I'd replace the radius rod bushings to see if they were the problem.

So I took off the old ones with about 85k miles on them and compared them with the new ones, you can see a big difference:



Just took it for a test drive and the clunk is gone and it feels like there is less slop when launching the car. So I'd recommend it, especially if you have alot of miles on your car. Plus it's pretty easy to do, just remove the small splash shield and remove the two bolts connecting the radius rod to the LCA and remove the one nut at the end of the rod and it slides right out.

 

DAmn!

 

These are the bushings in the front crossmember, correct?

Thought about getting a traction bar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These are the bushings in the front crossmember, correct?

Thought about getting a traction bar?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah they are.

nope.

 

Thats where you make your caster adjustments. May wanna have it checked out

 

yeah, I'm going to have it looked at soon.

 

i just put in ES ones to replace the stock ones

 

McKinney Race Works makes a set of spherical bushing ones for the Prelude... Makes caster adjustable and will eliminate wheel hop.

 

How come not too many companies make traction bars for preludes?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">McKinney Race Works makes a set of spherical bushing ones for the Prelude... Makes caster adjustable and will eliminate wheel hop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do u have a site?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How come not too many companies make traction bars for preludes?

Do u have a site?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The one company I am aware of that makes traction bars for preludes really has an unsafe-looking design. Full-Race wants to do one but they can't find a test car, as I understand it.

http://www.mckinneyraceworks.c...th=22

 

those are expensive. I think innovative mounts make some also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The one company I am aware of that makes traction bars for preludes really has an unsafe-looking design. Full-Race wants to do one but they can't find a test car, as I understand it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explicitspeed and PFI in Colorado both make traction bar setups for Preludes...and PFI's has been used on a 10 sec Prelude for years now. There's also a member on here who makes 5G traction bars, but I'm not sure of his name...BB6-213 or something along those lines....

 

#12 and #13

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Explicitspeed and PFI in Colorado both make traction bar setups for Preludes...and PFI's has been used on a 10 sec Prelude for years now. There's also a member on here who makes 5G traction bars, but I'm not sure of his name...BB6-213 or something along those lines....</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a difference between a car that only sees speed in a straight line on a flat surface in terms its needs in regards to bind-free suspension travel, and one that has to drive on regular, everyday roads and make turns at speed.

 

i use the explicit speed traction bar and i have no issue with the suspension binding and works great on average everyday driving

 

there was a thread a long time ago that i was looking for that replaced these rubber bushings with a "ball in socket" type of joint. all you had to do was drill 4 holes for the mounting screws. I wish i could find that thread.

 

damn the mckenny racework set up is nice.

hey azcivic, are those OEM or where did u buy them from? and is it (2) for each side?


Modified by budget at 2:45 AM 2/1/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvteclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use the explicit speed traction bar and i have no issue with the suspension binding and works great on average everyday driving</TD></TR></TABLE>

The reason their setup doesn't bind is because there is a heim joint on each end of the radius rod. This prevents binding in the case of poorly-designed radius rod geometry. There should not be a joint on each end of the radius rod.

The other issue with that design is the attachment of the radius rod to the LCA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was a thread a long time ago that i was looking for that replaced these rubber bushings with a "ball in socket" type of joint. all you had to do was drill 4 holes for the mounting screws. I wish i could find that thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The link I posted above is a link to a source for those.

 

here is a link

http://www.mckinneyraceworks.c...id=32

I still have 3 or 4 kits left in stock if anyone wants them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The link I posted above is a link to a source for those.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha sorry about that.. thanks for the link.