Hi guys,

I would like to post this here to get some ideas before I have this Fabbed up. My reasoning for doing this is to create an adjustable camber control arm that will not come out of spec once it's been set. With this design, once you set the camber and bolt it to the car, it will not come out of camber.



Let me know what you guys think.

 

yeah, that would work, but it'll be a pain to adjust when you get it setup. why not just use some rod ends- making it easier to adjust? i understand the idea of having something that won't come loose... i've got no ideas for preventing that with a rod end setup other than a couple lock washers, or maybe a pin through the sleeve and the bolt once it is in the location you want it.

 

well maybe you can answer a question for me, why would I use a ball joint instead of this pivot point idea from old race car wish bones?

 

if tightened down correctly i wouldnt think the current control arms move. i havent had any problems with the 2 types ive had.

 

I've heard a lot of complaints about them coming out of alignment over time.

It's not a huge deal, just a project for me.

 

You need balljoints so you can turn Or if you ever want to adjust rear toe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Str8 outta Cliff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need balljoints so you can turn Or if you ever want to adjust rear toe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Instead of welding a bunch of tubes together, why not check around and see what it would cost to get the whole thing machined out of aluminum. It would be lighter, and guranteed to be accurate, unlike a welded assembly where the heat could tweak it.

 

I completely agree about the one-piece construction, I'll rework my design a little for the ball joint as well.

Anyone have a stock 96 integra UCA so I can take measurements?

Anyone know where I can buy ball joints?


Modified by Nataku at 2:31 PM 1/27/2007

 

The biggest hassle in your design is that you would have to take the arms off every time for adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The biggest hassle in your design is that you would have to take the arms off every time for adjustment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, But "every time" is only onces, once it's set it will never have to be set again (unless you change your setup).

I personally would prefer it this way, but lets through out some other ways to achieve this, maybe there is a more sound idea for a adjustment.

 

Alright guys,

I've reworked my design so the body of the UCA is one piece, as well I have left a spot for the ball joint. My sizes in this model are a little off, I don't have a stock UCA or ball joint to measure yet.

 

Look into the new SPC units they look good, only thing is they might look like they would slip like your concern.....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/825731

 

Thanks, That picture does bring something I didn't think about...Will I have to put that same arch in the frame for it to work properly, or if I can leave it flat like my last design...

 

getting those made out of solid alum is gonna cost a rediculous amount. unless u got a cnc..

u will prolly **** yourself when a machine shop quotes u for that piece.

 

if that's what it comes to, then I will bite the bullet and buy one of the off the shelf A-arms. But I will at least go talk to them.

 

I'd fab it up out of tube, as shown in your first diagram and NOT thread the the steel tube for adjustment.

Have it so that the threaded rod slides through the tube and put a jam nut at both ends. That way you could adjust it without removing the arm!!

Wes

 

the other issue with your design is having room for the strut to move. The first design, I don't think you could get a strut in at all.
There are also camber kits that just replace the inner joints. But those are a set adjustment in increments of 1 degree, I believe...

 

the main issue with your design is the amount of time it would take to get the camber setup on the alignment rack

the good thing about a Skunk2 type control arm is you can losen the balljoint and change the camber without having to jack the car up off the lift. with your design you would have to do that.
On most racks when you jack the car up the software will have you go thru the alignment steps again from scratch. at least that has been my experience on some Hunter and Beissibart racks.

it takes a decent amount of time to properly align a car. alot of places will get the specs where you want them, and then print out the alignment specs. then when they go to tighten all the jam nuts on the rear toe arms, tie rods,etc, the specs will all go out of whack. it takes alot of fiddling to get the specs exact. my friend that works at a very high end performance shop that works on Radicals, ferraris, porsches, etc, does my alignments, and it takes him like 2-3 hours sometimes to get my car exactly where he wants with everything tightened up.

you'd be better off with a design like these. they are common on dirt track cars, etc. it allows Caster and Camber changes without removing the arm.

 

^ how do those rods work exactly? I've not seen anything like that.

I also have an idea where to two outer rods will not be threaded and there will be a 3rd in the middle that is threaded that you can adjust while on the car. I draw it up and post it.

 

Just use standard off the shelf adjustable arms, only once you set the camber, weld them up so they can't slip out of adjustment.

You're going to be going through a huge PITA for no good reason.

 

How about this (besides manufacturing costs), this one can be adjusted while it is on the car. The two outer posted are NOT threaded and can slip forward and backward. The inner post IS threaded and as you turn the bolt head, the assembly gets closer or further (depending on which way you turn the bolt).

There wil be a plate (not pictured) that you place over top of the bolt head (similar to the design of that A-arm link above) that keeps the bolt from turning after it's been set. I will give you a close up of the plate once I have more time.

 

looks not bad, but need to test fit it to see how real life functionality behave...

 

im by far not expert at this, but just trying to throw out ideas. the last design looks good, but wouldnt that have some weight to it compared to other kinds? that would be part of your suspension weght, making for slower response. i think it would be better with some well placed gussets, ect. keep up the designing
-quikflip

 

Cool new design, but the coilover won't fit with that design.