Dual point experts

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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Default No start!

I've got an issue with my 90' Civic. It has a D16Y7, and the stock PM5 manifold, injectors, airbox, etc. The car ran great. But i recently attempted to replace the throw out bearing. I had taken all the connectors under the distributor off airbox off, and taken out the battery. And in the process of replacing it, i realized i didnt have the punch i needed for one of the linkages. So i then began to put everything back together and in the process my friend dropped a nut from the dual point box, into the throttle body , and then tried to grab it out with his hand, and it fell onto the secondary "butterfly" which he didnt know the dual point had. And so he opened up the throttle to see if he could see it, and the second one opened up and dropped inside. So we disconnected everything to get the manifold off, and took it off, and the nut dropped out. So he put everything back together, and i had everything back together under the distributor. And i tried to started, and it cranks, just doesnt start. So i replaced the plugs, coil, and rotor, and still no start. So now i am begining to think its the ignitor...but im not completely sure. I also thought the timing could be off, but how would that be possible, since i havent done anything to throw it off. Basically what im asking is, if anyone has any idea what the problem could be. Any idea's are appreciated. Thank you!


Modified by jdmtuner_00 at 1:44 PM 1/29/2007
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Default Re: Dual point experts (jdmtuner_00)

are you getting fuel and spark?
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 04:51 AM
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Twice when working on my DX, I have swapped plugs when putting things back together. Check with a HELM to make sure the correct wire color is going to the correct sensor. Also make sure your thermostat ground is connected.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Default Re: (DaX)

Everything is connected correctly. I have no idea what the problem is. I've gone over it a million times, and still no start. I recently replaced the ignitor, and it cranks faster, but still doesnt turn over. So if anyone has any other ideas please throw them at me. Thank you.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Yesterday my battery was dead, so i charged it up, and when i was starting it, fuel shot out of the manifold/TB (airbox is off), and almost up to my hood. Im getting fuel and spark. Could the timing belt have slipped? and caused the timing to get off...Would the car still start even with the timing issue? Please help! Thanks!
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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hey.... i know this sounds strange, but its a little hard to follow your first post (not to detailed to the bone). I can say..... ahhh... "fuel shot out of the manifold" from what area?

did you remove your injectors and re-install them? my previous experience with re-utilizing orings--- after removing and re-inserted around 5 times they are bad and need to be replaced.

could be the source of your pressurized fuel/water gun effect (its not fun when it hits close to your face) :-}

since you're questioning the timing belt slipping, reset the timing belt. if you moved the dizzy, then yes, your timing is off--advance your dizzy, when the car fires and idle, re set it properly.

hmmm hows your compression across the board? poor compression will cause your motor to NOT start.....
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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The fuel shot out of the throttle body. Injectors were not removed. Im not sure of the compression, im going to test it tomorrow. I appreciate the help. I will keep you updated. Thanks!
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Default Re: (jdmtuner_00)

you make sure you connected all the grounds?
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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wierd how fuel shot out. Check the transmission gound on the clutch cable bracket and check the grounds on the thermostat housing
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 05:45 AM
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All grounds are connected. Went over them 3 times. Results from the compression test were: Cyl.1-120, Cyl.2-60, Cyl.3-75, Cyl.4-120. Let me know what you guys think....thanks!
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:14 AM
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thats EXTREMELY low, I beleive your timing is off!
take the timing belt off and put it back to normal, Im pretty sure its gonna start.
an engine needs 3 things to start. fuel, spark & compression.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:30 AM
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Default Re: (vtec8200)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec8200 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an engine needs 3 things to start. fuel, spark & compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+ air + timing
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:33 AM
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compression is air and timing, well thats just a little detail
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Default Re: No start! (jdmtuner_00)

You only pulled the tranny and the throttle body, right?
And the car was running before you did that.

I know you said you checked the grounds, but that's still going to be my guess for why it won't start.
Take a jumper cable and clamp one end to the NEG on battery and other end to the tranny and see if that starts.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Default Re: No start! (4drEF)

does your map sensor have vacuum going to it... ?

Do you have the spark plug firing order correct.. Do you get spark?
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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I have yet to check the MAP. But will. What is a good compression for my car ?
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Default Re: (jdmtuner_00)

hello again.... when i get home i'll hit the books to verify what the service manual considers good compression... from rough experience I personally would swap the head gasket. If you search you'll discover, normal compression is average at 160 to 200 across all four cylinders.

I bought my 88 std hatch with a d15b1 motor at 153000 rocking a compression of 203 - 207 across all 4 cyc. I've seen turbo cars run like champs with 165- 175 across the 4.

About 4 years ago i bought an 89 4dr civic-d15b2= i believe the compression was around 120-130 across the 4 and it wouldn't start at all (i bought the car dead for $400).

I know someone else above said it has ran before you touched it and it should run now. I'm not saying that person is wrong because it should run now! you didn't touch the head gasket at all. if your head gasket or rings are bad you'll have low compression. hey, if you believe its good though... maybe the timing belt if off... re-align it and compression test it again...
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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one thing i can tell is by your compression numbers your head gasket isnt the best inbetween 2 and 3. is the firing order right and the plug wires pushed all the way on the plugs as well as the cap.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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So should i replace the head gasket and timing belt?
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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don't just throw parts at it untill it works cause it will start costing you. you compression in 2 and 3 is way too low should be in between 140-160 with less then 10 from each other. i would make sure the plug wires were in the correct firing order since you said you pulled the dizzy
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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I've checked the firing order over and over, and i know its right. Although i did find that, one of the connectors on the ignitor, would not stay down on the bracket. Could that be causing it not to start ?
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 04:47 PM
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Well turns out i have absolutely no vacuum. So im thinking its timing...I have no idea why i would not have vacuum though. Any ideas?
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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TTT
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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no vaccum going to where did you pull out a vaccum gauge and started pulling vaccum on random lines? please provide more info for help
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