It seems like my heat is dying. I don't know what to even look at, all i know is that i replaced the raditor this summer, and i have never changed the thermostat. I have 120kish on the motor, i believe alot of it is the original stuff. Is it something small that could making my heat not so warm? The fan motor works fine, its blowing, its just not as warm as other cars.. but it does eventually get warm.

 

If your thermostat is stuck open that could be the culprit, it was in my case. The easiest way to identify it's that is if it takes a while for you car to reach normal temp on the internal thermometer. Also does turning on the heat full blast once it's warmed up, lower your temp? Mine was open pretty bad so turning on the heat full blast caused the temp to drop.
If not, then maybe there's something wrong with your heater core?
Not sure if you need this but it puts your cooling system together pretty well:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm

 

it seems like it warms up normally. i mean the heats not cold after like 2 mins of the car being warm and the heat on full blast. I mean my sister has a 2000 jetta, and that thing burns my eyeballs out in like 30 seconds. I know they are different cars, but im just wondering if theres something wrong with my heat or if theres anything to do to make it warmer? I think im going to change out the thermo anyways, but is there anything else i can do

 

I dont know a whole lot about the coolant system but changing the thermostat might help. In your case it doesnt seem to be in bad shape. Mine takes about 5 mins to get "eye ball burning" hot. If yours never reaches that, your thermostat might be open a little to far but I'm not to certain about the other parts. I'm not to sure what causes your coolant system to slowly become less efficient. Essentially your heater core is a smaller radiator though...so it can succumb to the similar problems as a radiator.

 

how hard is it to replace the core? and isn't it behind the dash. i dunno much about that system either.

 

yeah, I have a feeling it's not easy to get to. Don't go by what I'm saying, it could be other factors in the coolant system. If you can get it pretty damn hot you shouldn't worry about it. Let's just see if changin the thermostat helps. You might as well at 120,000 miles...

 

it doesn't get like so hot i have to turn it off like my sisters does, but i dunno it might just be how they are.

 

yeah well then the thermostat might be the case. I have 176000 on my car and the heat gets pretty freaking hot after a while. Wait for someone else for better advice, and check the search for coolant related problems.

 

anyone else have any ideas?

 

do the t-stat and see what happens, like the other dude said getting to the heater core is a BITCH you'd have to take apart your entire dashboard. i see what you mean my heat gets hot it burns my face (94 accord).

 

from what i understand the thermo just lets the car know when its at operating temp, how would that effect the heat? Jw

 

it affects the heat. The thermostat opens and closes depending on the coolant temp. If it's running through to much the coolant stays cold and cant heat up the heater core as fast. Trust me.. I had a bad thermostat, replaced it, and my car heated up faster, and have heat much much faster now.

Look at the link I showed you, it explains that a little bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i understand the thermo just lets the car know when its at operating temp, how would that effect the heat? Jw</TD></TR></TABLE>The coolant temperature (ECT) sensor lets the car know what the coolant temperature is.

The thermostat actually controls the coolant flow thru the radiator. If it directs coolant thru the radiator when the engine's cold, it ain't gonna GET warm.

 

i got a new thermo. i got an offset one.. will it matter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... i got an offset one...</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know what that means?

 

After you replace the T-stat you can check the valve in the heater hose under hood to be sure it is opening the flow all the way.
There is also an adjustment under the glove box area that is the middle point of the linkage for the heater valve.
The simple things can also cause problems; those heater control ***** are known to break where they join the shaft. Jerk that puppy off the shaft and be sure the plastic isn't cracked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know what that means?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he means the actual body of the T-stat is offset in the plate of the T-stat. As in 'not centered'.
Thats a normal thing.

 

i replaced it today.

it didn't seem like the old one was bad, but im pretty sure it was the orignal. So i replaced it and i looked at the valve. It moves when the **** is barely moved, it seems like it is functioning normally, plus when its all the way on heat you can hear it shut. I think that the **** is ok, and the heat seems alot warmer already. I just had a question about refilling the coolant, i filled the raditor again, and squeezed the top hose until it stopped bubbling, and added more. then i started it and watched it rush by and then put the cap on. Will air work itself out, cus i can't undo the bleeder screw, unless theres a certain way to do it. I just put a 12mm socket on it, and tried to open it 1/2 a turn but it wouldn't move.

 

I usually pop open the bleeder screw. But if you can also just let it sit till all the air comes out. It usually takes at least 15mins. Most guys just wait until the cooling fans turn on twice, I usually wait for the third cycle.

As for the bleeder screw, you'll need a swivel socket of some sort to open it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I usually pop open the bleeder screw. But if you can also just let it sit till all the air comes out. It usually takes at least 15mins. Most guys just wait until the cooling fans turn on twice, I usually wait for the third cycle.

As for the bleeder screw, you'll need a swivel socket of some sort to open it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you do that without the radiator cap on? wouldn't the coolant bubble out?

 

Do the best you can to work the air out. I usually can't get the last air out. Try pushing & squeezing the upper radiator hose to push the air towards the radiator cap.

Every time the engine heats up, it pushes some coolant into the expansion tank. Every time it cools down, it sucks it back. Each time a little more air gets worked out of the system. After a few cycles of this, you can check for air. Squeeze the radiator hoses when it's cool. You'll hear sloshing if there's still air. You should only hear the sound of that little rattle pin in the thermostat.

 

thanks, i did that the best i could. I don't think theres much air in there, i drove today and didn't over heat so i think im ok

 

yay, so the heat seems to be back to the eye searing level? If so, I'm glad to hear it... just mainly a simple stupid thermostat fix. Yours probably didnt take that long to heat up but was stuck open slightly. Did you look at the old one to see if it was functioning properly? Mine was slanted on the coil, and stayed open all the time.

 

it still doesn't warm up as fast as i'd like, but its alot warmer now. so i think it was just getting worn out. i think i might have fried it a bit in the summer when i had a leak in my raditor and was overheating for a few days.