Hopefully the image shows up. I want to know if the MAp sensor on this vehicle is correct. I have a vehicle with a no start condition. the timing is correct, I have spark, I have compression, I have fuel and air. It still does not start, How beats me. I have checked everything I thought, but felt to just ask this. IF you see anything else in this pic that might be a problem I should address other than it look like crap, please let me know.



In case you have trouble locating it, It is the only vacuum like going from the throttle body to a piece by the evap canister. It does have a plug for the 3 wire and the plug does fit. There shows to be another plug next to it, that would seem to go with it, but nothing plugs into it. I have redone the timing belt so it was perfect. it had a misfire and the cel would come on and off. I have checked what I thought to be the CEL and I can't remember if it stayed on or not. I have basically given up, BUT before i go out and buy a whole new motor, as I was not the one who installed this one, and the person who did, has not come out to take a look at it, I don't want to buy another motor and have the same problem ya know. So before I get into all that, I want to show the pic. I do have another intake I can stick onto it to see if that would make a difference. maybe??

 

Did you check your wiring??

 

dood, nobody is going to be much of help when that engine bay looks that sloppy. Did you try spraying some starter fluid in the intake manifold??

 

Your motor doesn't fire up? or your motor doesnt even crank at all...

If your motor just keeps cranking but not firing up, take out a spark plug and smell it for fuel. If you don't smell the fuel, you might have some problems with the injectors or injector wiring. Go over it again.

From what I can tell in the pic, you dont have a purge solenoid.

If your motor is not even cranking, check fuses, check proper grounds are in place, check starter, check wiring, use a volt meter.

 

bumps my friend has the same problem..fuel/spark and motor does not fire..GL..keep us posted..

 

i think you need a battery in there.......

for starters maybe some better pictures and give us some details like kim_2_da_chee said what is it actually doing? then maybe we can be of a little more help

 

ummm, ok. I had another post with all this info and i didnt get much responce. The car cranks, but no start. I have tryed every damn thing possible. You want timing, its dead on. you want spark, I have spark, you want fuel on the new NGK spark plug, I give you fuel. You want me to check injectors, so I check them and they are fine, you want me to fire starting fluid into the intake, Ok, I did and it doesnt start. I mean, theres only so much you can do before you want to use C-4. Any other suggestions? I thought by posting a pic, that might help

 

did you change the timing belt???because if you did yeah you could have it in time BUT you could be 180 degrees off I've seen some peeps do this you need to turn the motor by hand take the #1spark plug out and check that the piston is all the way up then check the rotor to be sure its at #1 firing point...try that let me know whats up...peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spluvs2install &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm, ok. I had another post with all this info and i didnt get much responce. The car cranks, but no start. I have tryed every damn thing possible. You want timing, its dead on. you want spark, I have spark, you want fuel on the new NGK spark plug, I give you fuel. You want me to check injectors, so I check them and they are fine, you want me to fire starting fluid into the intake, Ok, I did and it doesnt start. I mean, theres only so much you can do before you want to use C-4. Any other suggestions? I thought by posting a pic, that might help</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same issue with my old motor.

Turns out that the rotor was melted and it cause it to be off. Check the rotor.

 

when i did my swap it was the same, spark, fuel, turned out to be the dizzy,
then car would idle and then shut right off, bad iacv
yeah i know thats a lot more to check for but that map doesnt look right ot me. it should be a bigger one, with like 3 or 4 hoses coming in and out, one from that on the throttle to the map then from map to charcoal canister, and then one more from map to back of intake manifold. that's how mines looked anyways

 

Compression?

 

check all your grounds...including the one on the thermostat housing! this happen to me, the exact same way! i hooked up my thermostat housing ground and it fired right up.

 

yes thats the map sensor and your car will run with it hooked up like that so thats not your problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turns out that the rotor was melted and it cause it to be off. Check the rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i doubt thats your problem but check it anywase cause this has happened to me too. it will still spark but not at the right time so it wont start. aslo maybe the dizzy is on 180 degrees off.

 

well, I have checked that and the dizzy was on key. I replaced the cap and rotor they are brand new. I also checked with the new stuff on to see about spark and I have spark. i DID replace the timing belt BUTY i made sure the #1 piston was up top. I looked at it by eye, then by taking a screwdriver and waiting till it was at TDC and the checked the timing marks and made sure they were perfect. The one good question is there are some marks on the crank pulley. One is a "WHITE" mark and one is a "RED" mark between two other notches. I set it at both to just try and the car would start on the red mark better than that white mark, so i set it there, but after the car misfired a bunch and then started to run better, as soon as the fan kicked on, the vehicle shut off and has never started since. It just cranks. I replaced fuel filter, I have done my testing, so this is why i am stumped. I'll keep bumping this up so maybe get some other new ideas or something

 

the white mark is tdc no1. the other marks are for checking ignition timing. Set the crank timing to the white mark. Try swapping the dizzy with a working one. Sounds like coil trouble.

 

"does this look correct" no...it looks dirty...check and make sure that no wires have shorted out along with everything else

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xTimmyx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check all your grounds...including the one on the thermostat housing! this happen to me, the exact same way! i hooked up my thermostat housing ground and it fired right up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 I also had this problem but was clued to it by the CEL freaking out.

 

If there isn't a wire at the thermostate mounting bracket, what would I be looking for as far as this is concerned? So I will go back to the car and check the timing mark again and if its not set at the white mark, I will reset it again. I just remember that when I set it, it didn't start at all. I have checked the dizzy and it was ok when i ran tests on it. yea, tell me about it, grrrr. so Ok, i'll do that again and see what i am able to come up with. I believe my findings as for this was the engine didnt start. I have also made sure the dizzy wasn't 180 degrees off by checking the rotor and making sure everything was aligned. IF I get it running which I highly doubt, and it starts to SMOKE real bad, would that be the rings since compression was at a all time low of 135 psi across the board?

 

youhavetolookforthegroundwireonyourwireharnessthat connectstoyourthermostathouseing,hookthatup,discon nectthebatterytoresettheECU,hookupthebatteryandthe ntryandstartherup////////////////sorry///my///spacebar//doesnt///work

 

[QUOTE=spluvs2install]I have also made sure the dizzy wasn't 180 degrees off by checking the rotor and making sure everything was aligned. [QUOTE]


That really doesn't tell you much. Pull the timing cover and belt and start over. Remember in a 4 stroke motor the piston comes to TDC twice. Also compression is super low, unless the rings were dry when you tested you may have bigger problems on your hands.

 

****, I can almost bet you the rings are gone on the motor, BUT i feel that if I can get the motor to run somewhat right, then when or if I buy a new motor, then I don't have as many problems to deal with, BUT i'll take a look for that ground wire!