Ok guys, after 2 weeks of going back and fourth with should I or shouldnt I with building or just buying a longblock I've decided tonight that I am going to build my own motor!!

So far I've networked either a GSR head or B16 head that needs a dizzy and IM.
I havent decided yet but think the GSR is the better bet cause it's complete and the owner seems like he actually wants to sell it lol

I've also networked 2 bare blocks both being b18a's but it really doesnt matter if its b18a or b18b so what ever. With these blocks I've also made sure to get the matching crank as I was reading that it could be bad to have a mismatched crank when it comes to bearing clearances and such.

I guess what I'm looking for from the community is some help with my list. I know there's the how to thread for LS/VTEC's but I wanted to start one to look back on when this is all done. Any reliable info/help on parts and tech would be greatly appreciated. Now.......On with the list of parts..

1. B18 bare block (60-100 dollars)
2. Bearings (around $120)
3. Crank (have it inspected and possibly micro polised/knife edged) 50 + machining costs....?)
4. shot peened LS rods or aftermarket (40 dollars up to xxx.xx)
5. ITR pistons 81.5mm (150 via ebay with hasting rings)
6. ITR oil pump/water pump and GSR T-belt (<--I think? Dont remember off hand) (Roughly 200 for all items)
7. All brackets/mounts/hard lines for pumps and what not. (misc. prices. about 30-50 bucks)
8. The Golden Eagle MFG. Vtec conversion setup with sandwich plate/lines/fittings (250 with head gasket)
9. Possible the matching Head gasket with the LS/VTEC kit from Golden eagle mfg.
10. Arp head studs and Vtec conversion dowel pins. (Around 100 bucks)
11. VTEC head complete ( 400 roughly)
12. Machine work for the bottom end (bore/hone) (not sure yet)
13. Possible minor Port/polish of the head by me.
14. Chipped P28 with atleast a GSR/ITR basemap chip until I get my LM-1 and better software
15. ???? Anything I'm missing on this list?

Total so far = $1300-1500 if I get friendly prices on some items.

Please dont flame this thread, if you have something negative to say.......Go start a thread in GDD and let me know about it and we can take it there. Dont trash this for me. Thanks for all positive/helpful advice

Modified by one bad dx at 8:19 PM 1/24/2007


Modified by one bad dx at 8:56 PM 1/24/2007

 

15. ARP Rod Bolts
16. Main Bolts
17. Bottom end gasket set

Modified by one bad dx at 11:22 PM 1/25/2007


Modified by one bad dx at 11:22 PM 1/25/2007

 

I take it you are only going to build the bottom end?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Eric &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I take it you are only going to build the bottom end?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well for now I'm not looking to drop 4k into a motor. I just want something together quickly. I went from 33mpg and no oil consumption to 31mpg and 1quart per 1500 miles on my daily driver and I know that it's only a matter of time before I either snap a ring or blow a cylinder completely and that would just be a waste considering it is a running longblock that just needs rings.

If you didnt understand what I meant at first. I'll explain further. I cant build the motor thats currently in my car cause I cant have any down time other than swapping it over. So I cant remove my current motor and fix it cause it's going to take me longer to do that than to just build a motor while this one is still going atleast.

 

if you have the $$ bore it, go 84.5-85MM it helps tremendesly, my old gsr was 86mm bore running about 12.6:1 compression it was beast

 

^^ dont listen to this person, unless he tells you that he sleeved it first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95BG33PGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have the $$ bore it, go 84.5-85MM it helps tremendesly, my old gsr was 86mm bore running about 12.6:1 compression it was beast </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not if it was stock sleeved.

But to the OP, everything looks to be kosher.

With that compression, I would look into a set of cams to round out the build.

Alot of people, (myself and my father included) have great experience with these builds, and I promise you'll love yourself for saving up for a good set of cams/valvetrain.

Hell, I even recommend the Underground Racing cams/valvetrain. The stuff has been working perfectly in our CR-X build!

Good luck!

- Derek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95BG33PGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have the $$ bore it, go 84.5-85MM it helps tremendesly, my old gsr was 86mm bore running about 12.6:1 compression it was beast </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be great if I had another 1k to put into sleeving the block......I'm not looking for a race setup that overheats under daily driving and needs to be rebuilt every couple thousand miles.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not if it was stock sleeved.

But to the OP, everything looks to be kosher.

With that compression, I would look into a set of cams to round out the build.

Alot of people, (myself and my father included) have great experience with these builds, and I promise you'll love yourself for saving up for a good set of cams/valvetrain.

Hell, I even recommend the Underground Racing cams/valvetrain. The stuff has been working perfectly in our CR-X build!

Good luck!

- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of Underground Racing cams/valvetrain. Do they have a website?

Thanks everybody for the input so far

Also

part # 16. JG Edelbrock header thanks to summit

Think I might even order it today

 

http://www.undergroundracingus...=SFNT

 

Thank you for the site addy. It seems that their cams are priced really well but when it comes to valve train would I be better off going with something more name brand? I know that sounds n00bish but it's just R&D that separates a "name" brand vs. the competitor

 

Nothing wrong with sticking to a brand name you trust.

I recommend Skunk2 Pro Series stuff, in that case.

 

I think for starters I'm just going to keep the head mostly stock. I have a stepped process and many different directions going on right now so I cant dedicate all my money to just this setup.

I'm currently getting my software and products together for tuning so it's hard to stretch bank that I dont currently have lol.

 

Perhaps I missed something, but I would do main bolts for the bottom of the block as well. This would be more of a safety precaution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps I missed something, but I would do main bolts for the bottom of the block as well. This would be more of a safety precaution. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll add it to the list. Also, what is a good company to get main bolts from? I'm sorry but I'm not 100% familiar with some of the terms that I hear when it comes to internal parts of a motor yet.

Also, would it be smart to add a girdle say from a GSR? I can get one with my bare block at a lil xtra charge and I've been thinking about it I just haven't had time to do adequate research on whether or not they are worth the upgrade or not.

One more thing. When doing the main bearings would it be better to upgrade to "race" bearings or stay with STD? I'm not sure nor could I find a description from ACL on the differences between the 2. Thanks in advance for an answer on this one.

 

Main bolts are probably a little over kill for the setup, oem are more than capable. I'd use oem bearings also.

Let me know when you want pick up that head.

 

Do main bolts attach the crank to the bottom end? Like the bolts that are in the main caps? Or am I off on this one?

Also, if all goes well I'll pick that head up *** soon as possible lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do main bolts attach the crank to the bottom end? Like the bolts that are in the main caps? Or am I off on this one?

Also, if all goes well I'll pick that head up *** soon as possible lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the main bolts are the ones that go through the main caps to hold the crank in place.

Aftermarket ones are not needed AT ALL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, the main bolts are the ones that go through the main caps to hold the crank in place.

Aftermarket ones are not needed AT ALL.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Excellent!! I'm getting there lol. I also located a great machine shop just over in VT (Vermont) that can take care of all my needs. So now I just have to get all the goodies and start this ish'!!!

 

Sounds pretty good, but I would get real oem pistons and rings.... not the 150 stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds pretty good, but I would get real oem pistons and rings.... not the 150 stuff. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I'm going to see about coming across some good pistons for my build. Either OEM's or some decently used forged pistons.

 

What about these pistons????

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1569878

 

Could i ask how you're going to do a minor/pNp ? do a write up! when its finished!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shatchi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could i ask how you're going to do a minor/pNp ? do a write up! when its finished! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure. I'll be doing a write up with pics of everything I do for sure. But a the idea behind a minor p&p is that your ideally just cleaning up the ports/bends and bowl and then just match porting your manifolds. It's very similar to the stock ITR head without the 1200+ dollar price on it.

 

Alright so........ If all goes well I'll be heading down to Jersey this weekend to pick up the block/pan/piping/alt./caps/brackets/ and possibly crower rods. I wanted to make it one complete trip and swing over to King of Prussia to pick up the head but unfortunatly the seller of the head is going to be gone on vacation.

Also, I was browsing through the sponsor classifieds today and came across a seller called streetrays. So I asked about pricing on their GE (Golden Eagle) VTEC conversions..............They replied with a price of 210 including the H/G of my choice!! Now I dont know about anybody else on here but the pricing I got from their site with the H/G was around 280 + shipping then another 20 bucks for dowel pins. This kit comes with them as well!!! So yea saving a bill by searching on our offered sponsor's was deff. cool.

I also think I found the machine shop I'm going to be going with. RPM Rick in St. Albans VT. Very good price's on services. 220 for bore/hone/wash, then its like 150 for balancing. He only charges like 50 bucks for shot peening if needed (stock rods) and he was also very leary about me calling around to get other prices due to the amount of "hacks" as he called them around our area lol. So it's all starting to come together now.

 

I just did some reading online about the B16B CTR pistons. In a combination of a GSR block with a B16 head those only yielded a CR of 12.03:1. For the power I'm looking to put down after I get done building the head I think that would be right around where I want to be for my compression ratio.

What do you's think about 12:1 for a daily driver