Head was milled 0.020 of an inch, using a oem 3 layer hg on my c5.
s2s2 cams, dizzy is set at 16 degress with the timing, but do i need to advance my gears some, i left them at the settings before the milling +2 intake and -1 on exhaust.

 

bump

 

Do you know how to do it?Yes you should.If you don't know how I will tell you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toddz Grafixxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know how to do it?Yes you should.If you don't know how I will tell you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The expletive..I'm asking if i need to adjust my gears according to w/e to compenstate for the head milling...i'm not asking how to set timing..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The expletive..I'm asking if i need to adjust my gears according to w/e to compenstate for the head milling...i'm not asking how to set timing..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is asking "do you know how much to adjust the timing per amount taken off the head"

calm down

 

General rule is ~ 1 deg advance for every .012" taken off.

 

Thats what i needed to know..so i would assume my whole tuning is goin to have to be redone, cam timing wise.. cause i did have it set at +2/-1 so now i guess i'll go +3 on intake and put the exhaust back at 0..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">General rule is ~ 1 deg advance for every .012" taken off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that it was for every 20 thou????
i had mine milled 40 thou and set to 2/2 to even everything out

 

There is no general rule.As the head goes down it changes the amount the belt needs to be tightened.Its not an even amount.I took over .100 off a B16 head and it took more than 12 degs on both sides to get them both back straight up.Don't go by some ones guess.I'll ask again do you know how to get your cams back to "0" @ tdc ?

 

If you don't get it yet, you're going to need to degree the cams in after the engine is assembled.

 

The engine is assembled, and running..i was driving it alittle bit last night, but i haven't "gotten" on it..
The head is a jdm gsr head. and its only milled 0.020 so Correct me on what i'm saying i need to it..
The cam lobes on cyl1 should both be pointing at 11/1 o clock correct? So tell me what's wrong.. if the cranks on TDC.. and the cams are at 11/1 whats the problem..enlighten me toddz... Because i'm stuck the car does seem alittle slugish but i assumed it was because i needed to retune because of the milling and making the CR alittle higher.. ..help me lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toddz Grafixxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took over .100 off a B16 head </TD></TR></TABLE>



Any chamber left??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The engine is assembled, and running..i was driving it alittle bit last night, but i haven't "gotten" on it..
The head is a jdm gsr head. and its only milled 0.020 so Correct me on what i'm saying i need to it..
The cam lobes on cyl1 should both be pointing at 11/1 o clock correct? So tell me what's wrong.. if the cranks on TDC.. and the cams are at 11/1 whats the problem..enlighten me toddz... Because i'm stuck the car does seem alittle slugish but i assumed it was because i needed to retune because of the milling and making the CR alittle higher.. ..help me lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much of a CR change is that? Did you reset the timing? If you upped the compression you are probably going to have to pull a little timing out. As for your original question advancing the cams a degree should be just fine.

 

why dont you get the proper tooling and check it right. then you would have to ask such generalized questions. as todd said there is no set amount. there are easy rules to follow by but that only gets you so far. take it to the dyno and tune it. you wont have to worry about how much your head is milled assuming you have already taken into account your V2V and V2P clearances.

BTW: just for reference i had .025 taken off my block and didnt have to compensate at all to get the cams dialed in back to 0. theres my experience with the matter.

 

I have a timing light.. Dizzy is at 16..Crank was at tdc and so were the cams..i'll just advance.

 

bump it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 87sivtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Any chamber left?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
There is all of the chamber left.But now it has Quench pads like a GSR head but with more compresion .So you don't need a tall piston that blocks off the valves.
What you do is put the crankshaft on TDC and have someone hold it there.Then yo turn the cams to where the lobes are pointing up at around 45degs.Then there is a hole in the top of the second cam cap.And there should be a hole in the cam also .That is used to line the cam up at TDC.Then you loosen the cam gears and slide the belt on at as close to "0" as you can .Now hold the crank at TDC and tighten the belt.after you do that then tighten the cam gears.Now look at the cam gears and see where they are.Then write it down so you know where your gears are to be at TDC.Then pull the pins out of the cams and there you are.Perfectly at "0".

 

The end result will make the lobes on cyl1 point where because i was always under the impression..That if the lobes for the exhaust are pointing at 11 oclock, and the lobes for intake are point at 1 oclock..which i think is 45 degrees..

I'm not asking if i need to turn the cams a certain way, i'm asking do i need to adjust my gear settings in gerenal to compensate..i'm told by most people who've had the same head work just advance the gears by 1 degree...The head/block height really hasnt 'changed i'm running a greddy t-belt and its pretty tight...In other words..i've always set my timing the NORMAL way you should i did it this way...am i wrong?

 

Well you can do it right or you can guess.I told you how to do it the right way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm told by most people who've had the same head work just advance the gears by 1 degree...</TD></TR></TABLE>

In this instance, you cannot go by what someone tells you. There is no rule or equation for deck height and TDC, because there are small variables that negate any "rule of thumb" that exists.

The only way you can tell if your cams are truly at TDC when the crank is at TDC is a degree wheel and fixtures. Once you degree the cams and crank at TDC, you can make the gear adjustments to where they were on your previous tune. For example, lets say you actually do it right and degree them in, you find out you need to compensate 0.5 degrees, so you set your camgears at 0.5 degrees and your crank at TDC. Now you are at TDC for both your cams and crank. You said previously that your tune was at +2/-1, so now your new settings should be +2.5/-0.5.

If you're looking for an approximate number (which is worthless), it will be somewhere between 0 and +3.

The easy way? Leave them at +2/-1 and tune again. As long as you know your clearances, that will be the best way to solve this problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toddz Grafixxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is all of the chamber left.But now it has Quench pads like a GSR head but with more compresion .So you don't need a tall piston that blocks off the valves.
What you do is put the crankshaft on TDC and have someone hold it there.Then yo turn the cams to where the lobes are pointing up at around 45degs.Then there is a hole in the top of the second cam cap.And there should be a hole in the cam also .That is used to line the cam up at TDC.Then you loosen the cam gears and slide the belt on at as close to "0" as you can .Now hold the crank at TDC and tighten the belt.after you do that then tighten the cam gears.Now look at the cam gears and see where they are.Then write it down so you know where your gears are to be at TDC.Then pull the pins out of the cams and there you are.Perfectly at "0".</TD></TR></TABLE>

do this and write the numbers down that put the cams back at tdc (say it takes 1 degree to get the exhaust cam back at tdc and you previous setting was -1 degree then put the cam gear at 0. do the same for the intake but add the number it takes to get the cam back at tdc to your previous setting. ie if it takes +1degree to get the intake cam at tdc then add 1 degree to you previous setting)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93-lsvtec-eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do this and write the numbers down that put the cams back at tdc (say it takes 1 degree to get the exhaust cam back at tdc and you previous setting was -1 degree then put the cam gear at 0. do the same for the intake but add the number it takes to get the cam back at tdc to your previous setting. ie if it takes +1degree to get the intake cam at tdc then add 1 degree to you previous setting)</TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't that what I said?

 

Update:: I went ahead and did a check on the tdc and everythign time was DEAD on..so i went +4 on the intake and 0 on the exhaust..car idles and runs strong, hell, it even spins the tires in 3rd now..which is pretty good..i'm still working out the cinks.. The speedometer even when i'm at a stand still is bouncing around..and my slave cyl is going bad but other then that its making progess.,.., Thx for the help guys it was really easy after i started doing it myself no guessing here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toddz Grafixxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
isn't that what I said?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but it didn't seem like he understood it to well so i just explained it a little more so if he didn't understand the way i put it he doesn't need to be working on a car.

 

Yeah your right there