stock ecu is poop
ok, i have the stock jdm ecu in my car. i want to eliminate the speed governor and lower the vtec engagment point. i cant find anyone around here that will do it and buying a whole new ecu is way too expensive, any suggestions?
Most jdm ecu's have speed limiters programmed. What's the ecu code? OBD0 or OBD1? There are a few free programs that'll do...TE, Crome (not just for obd1 anymore), Uberdata, BRE (for obd0 pr3's and pw0's) just to name a few. BTW, if the ecu date is older than 1990, don't even waste your time...everything from 1989 and down has it programmed into the mcu chip...you have to build a special board to run an eeprom.
its set up obd0 and its either a pr3 or pw0 I'm not sure. if I had to guess, I'd say pr3. the limiter is at 115 which sucks a lot. I hit that all the time. vtec is at 4800 which is ok but I would like it a little lower. how do I found out when the ecu was made. I don't know what year car the motor came out of.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scfrank82 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its set up obd0 and its either a pr3 or pw0 I'm not sure. if I had to guess, I'd say pr3. the limiter is at 115 which sucks a lot. I hit that all the time. vtec is at 4800 which is ok but I would like it a little lower. how do I found out when the ecu was made. I don't know what year car the motor came out of.</TD></TR></TABLE>The ecu will have it stamped in blue ink on the side, next to the code...like '90 pr3 and some other numbers to dictate whether it's an auto trans or manual trans ecu.
Pr3's are chippable, use a program called BRE to make the changes you want. Avoid BRE version 2.2b for now, it's still in beta testing (I've come across a few bugs so far, and one involving vtec crossover rpm) so get the stable version 2.2. http://www.pgmfi.org has all the info you need on BRE, just go to their forum and search around. As for vtec activation, I would advise leaving it at the 4800 mark. Anything lower and you'll start to lose bottom end power if you're n/a.
Pr3's are chippable, use a program called BRE to make the changes you want. Avoid BRE version 2.2b for now, it's still in beta testing (I've come across a few bugs so far, and one involving vtec crossover rpm) so get the stable version 2.2. http://www.pgmfi.org has all the info you need on BRE, just go to their forum and search around. As for vtec activation, I would advise leaving it at the 4800 mark. Anything lower and you'll start to lose bottom end power if you're n/a.
i baught a chip off of ebay for 25 bucks, it takes the speed gov. away and lowers the vtec to 4400 rpms. and also takes the rev limit away, you just have to have it soldered in, good to know someone who has done it before.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxdxsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i baught a chip off of ebay for 25 bucks, it takes the speed gov. away and lowers the vtec to 4400 rpms. and also takes the rev limit away, you just have to have it soldered in, good to know someone who has done it before.</TD></TR></TABLE>Those are the worst things to do. They usually have modified timing and fuel maps which run way more fuel than you need, and way more timing than you should have. A stock map is more than sufficient for a motor with just basic bolt on's. Anything else you should have the motor dyno-tuned anyway.
I have done it several time with no problems or regrets, it easy cheap and did exactly what i wanted it to do. and it is reversable if the socket is soldered into the ecu. so if you dont like it, you only out 25 bucks and 30 min of time.
Also he asked for suggestions, that was all i was doing.
Also he asked for suggestions, that was all i was doing.
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