I've had my new motor assembled and in the car a few weeks now, working out some minor bugs. For some reason ever since we put it in I've had to prime the pump a few times for it to actually crank. I didn't really have to do this before. I installed a new 255 Warlboro maybe 4months ago, but the car sat for at least 2 months while the new motor was getting ready.

This past weekend I tied up a few odds and ends, fixing the DP, overflow etc. Test drove the car and it ran great, but suddenly the left side of my guage cluster dropped dead...turned out to be a blown fuse. Well, after I fixed that I was going to drive it again but noticed the car missing alot in the RPMs. I'd hit the gas and it would just bog/die down. Looking over everything, I noticed my fuel pressure was sitting at 24 with the vacuum on ; where as before it was at 40 and would rise when needed. Now it sits at 24, hit the gas it doesn't move, take off the vavuum it doesn't move, adjust the regulator, still doesn't move. It's barely getting fuel. When priming you can barely here the pump at all anymore.
I checked the voltage at the pump and its good. I just can't figure out why it would go from being good to bad in less than 24 hours. There is no fuel leak anywhere. I am going to check the return lines for possible clogs today. I'm just looking for any other suggestions before I drop the tank and have to install a new pump...

The fuel setup is...
Warlboro 255
Fuel filter has less than 100 miles on it
RC 550s
NRG off rail regulator (always worked perfectly)
CROME

 

if the return lines were clogged, you should be seeing MORE pressure, i'd imagine.

you could have sucked up some nasty crap, thus clogging the new fuel filter, but i doubt it.

it all points to the regulator or pump. pumps and regulators fail before anything else, typically. sounds like the regulator though..i've only ever seen walbros totally die, not partially. good luck man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it all points to the regulator or pump. pumps and regulators fail before anything else, typically. sounds like the regulator though..i've only ever seen walbros totally die, not partially. good luck man</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll pull the line off the reg and try priming it with the line in a bottle to see if the fuel is going strong to the rail. You can still hear the pump prime, but instead of a solid buzz/hmm, it's more like a faint wind...almost like long a weak poot

 

NRG off rail regulator (always worked perfectly)


^^ replace that with an oem one, for **** and giggle to see if it is your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NRG off rail regulator (always worked perfectly)


^^ replace that with an oem one, for **** and giggle to see if it is your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try that today, I should have a few stock ones somewhere.

 

bump for more ideas/theories

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NRG off rail regulator (always worked perfectly)


^^ replace that with an oem one, for **** and giggle to see if it is your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a funny suspicion that it's the regulator as well. If the pump is getting the same voltage, but the regulator isn't allowing any more pressure, then it wouldn't sound nearly as loud. Also...adjusting the regulator should always have some effect on pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have a funny suspicion that it's the regulator as well. If the pump is getting the same voltage, but the regulator isn't allowing any more pressure, then it wouldn't sound nearly as loud. Also...adjusting the regulator should always have some effect on pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm definately going to look at the reg.

Just a thought, but if the reg. was fine and the pump was weak, if the pump couldn't put out any more pressure then adjusting the reg. wouldn't make a difference. (that probably dosen't even sound right....but hopefully you see my point)

 

I had something very similar happen to me. I would shut off the car and the fp gauge would drop to 0 pretty quick. Before the problem started it would hold steady pressure for a while after shutting off the car. Turns out the fp was leaking a little.

 

Check the Sock on your fuel pump.. .. something could have got in your tank?

If you dont hear the pump prime like it normaly does.. then I would say... its pump failure... or sock is clogged and struggling to get fuel through.

I dont see how your lines could get clogged.. if they where to get clogged with something.. that something would have had to travel threw the pump.??

I would also check you main relay.. and your grounds under your dash...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by havok hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the Sock on your fuel pump.. .. something could have got in your tank?

If you dont hear the pump prime like it normaly does.. then I would say... its pump failure... or sock is clogged and struggling to get fuel through.

I dont see how your lines could get clogged.. if they where to get clogged with something.. that something would have had to travel threw the pump.??

I would also check you main relay.. and your grounds under your dash...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
From exoerience on my last B16 CRX (had a rusty tank) The Warlboro actually got louder when the sock was clogged...extremely loud wine. Once the new tank was put on, it actually got quieter.
I thought it may have been a clog, but when I replaced the orig pump it was still in great shape, so there definately shouldn't be anything in there now to clog it.

I will check the grounds and the relay today.

Also on the last CRX once the relay was out it was out completely. It died while idleing at the body shop, put in a new relay and problem wsa solved. It never showed a sign of getting "weak" just died on the spot.

 

 

walbro has been having some issues lately. i would check fo 12 volts at the tank, if it does have 12 volts i bet it will end up being the pump locking up. keep us updated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">walbro has been having some issues lately. i would check fo 12 volts at the tank, if it does have 12 volts i bet it will end up being the pump locking up. keep us updated </TD></TR></TABLE>
It has 12v at the tank.
I'll update today as soon as I get to the car.

 

Well...here's what I did today.
1st.-checked to see if anything magically happened to correct itself...no such luck.
2nd. installed an OE FPR. The result was the same. The pump sounded the same and it would still bog and die.

3rd. Put the NRG FPR back on and put a hose on the fuel return leading outside the bay. I thn primed the pump a few times to see if there was a steady fuel flow. There was a steady flow, the FPR gauge read right at 15psi.

4th. I then (for some reason) decided to stick an LS ecu in to see if that would do anything. The car then would rev perfectly fine, threw a code 41, but revved fine.

5th. I put my ECU back in and installed another FP gauge (a B&M) on the fuel filter, which is reading before the rail and FPR. It consistantly read 18-20 while the FPR read 15-16.

(now I'm at the point were I can't get the ECU swap out my head). So I grab these and try them out...

1.virgin P28-idled fine, revved fine, threw code 41
2.socketed H22/440 P28- threw code 41, still idled better than the orig...but of coarse it was off a bit
3. virgin LS-idled fine, revved fine, threw code 41
4. put my ECU back in, hit the gas boggy, code 0, boggs like the timing is just way out in left field

Through all the ECU swaps the FP never changed, it would not raise with the throttle or vacuum. Increasing the pressure on the regulator would not raise the pressure on either gauge...like the pump just won't put out. And the ECU, I'm about to email pherable now to see whats up with it.

My conclusion right now is just replace the pump and go from there; and figure out what happened to the ECU. It went from fine to fucked at the same time as the pump...coincident...

 

I'm dropping the tank today. Any more suggestions?

 

Make sure it is a real walbro pump when you have it out.I've seen a couple postings (I believe from walbro sellers) about counterfeit pumps.

 

The ECU doesn't control the fuel pressure, so that's out of the scene (even thouhg you seem to have some issues with it) Why don't you crimp the return line right after the regulator and see it the pressure raises up?

Adriano

 

i'll bet the stocker ecu's make it run better because of the bigger injectors.. big injectors w/ less pressure= small ,near stock injectors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adriano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Why don't you crimp the return line right after the regulator and see it the pressure raises up?

Adriano</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will try that, but if the pressure raises, wouldn't that still point to the fuel pump as being bad?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll bet the stocker ecu's make it run better because of the bigger injectors.. big injectors w/ less pressure= small ,near stock injectors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I put the stock ECU in to move it (pull it out & back it up to the bay door) and once it actually did crank it did idle fine at the low pressure.

I decided to wait to drop the tank until I get another pump here, prob Wednesday. Outside of the tank everything looks fine, no loose or cracked lines on the drivers side. Just a litle boggled by the whole ordeal.

 

Did you put the stock regulator in already? It's has to be either the pump or frp. Unless there something wrong wiht the feed line/filter (it's very rare)

Adriano

 

If the fuel pressure raises (really high, about 90+psi) when you crimp the return line, it leads to the fpr being bad. Because the pump shows that it's making pressure but the regulator is not holding up.

Adriano

 

i'd try changing the filter too (just to be sure) ..you never know what could be wrong. i'd quick change it with a known good one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adriano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you put the stock regulator in already? It's has to be either the pump or frp. Unless there something wrong wiht the feed line/filter (it's very rare)

Adriano</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I put a stock reg. on and took it back off. There was no change at all with the regulator swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd try changing the filter too (just to be sure) ..you never know what could be wrong. i'd quick change it with a known good one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The filter is fairly new as well, I changed it the same day I changed the pump. I'll probably just change it again as well.

 

Isn't a code 0 a bad ECU?