I just recently put high compression pistions, valves, surface my head on my B16. Today i pulled out one my spark plugs and it was really burnt and white and the spark plugs are brand new ngk's. Do i need bigger fuel injectors? Any recommendations on what size if i need bigger ones

 

What you mean burnt. were they just white. White is not necissarily that bad. If it runs good not much to be conserned about. Just check you A/F ratio and make sure your not running dangerously lean. Otherwise I usually just consider white plugs a sign of a clean buring motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you mean burnt. were they just white. White is not necissarily that bad. If it runs good not much to be conserned about. Just check you A/F ratio and make sure your not running dangerously lean. Otherwise I usually just consider white plugs a sign of a clean buring motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL omg

take it from the pro's

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/t...2.asp

hope this helps

and if you still do not believe me

http://www.densoiridium.com/howtoreadusedplugs.php


you might want too look into your fuel fpr for temp and GET them damn thing tuned!

 

The A/F varies with operation. Are you checking your plugs after a light cruise down the freeway or are checking your plugs after putting new plugs in doing nothing but full throttle and then immediately shutting down the motor (turning the ign key to off).

Most fuel injector motors operating mostly in part throttle will have plugs with very white insulators and some browness on the end of the threads.

Info Learnt from Gene Berg Enterprises

 

Those plug company articles are very basic and give you no real info on how to properly read plugs. By reading plugs you can figure out if you low mid and high end are too rich/lean, if you need more or less timing (literally to the degree), if the heat range is correct or not, and if you are getting some detonation--you can have heavy detonation even if your plugs are fluffy black from a rich mixture--too much timing or wrong plug heat range. That is why those general plug charts aren't very good. Try this http://www.dragstuff.com/techa....html If you see the plugs in that article that have very close to perfect burns, the porcelain is bone white--although you don't read jetting/fuel off of the porcelain. Also, you can only reliably read one specific area of the powerband at a time. For a full throttle read, the dyno is great because you can immediatley coast down and shut the car off--if you do a full throttle pass and the idle the car for 3 minutes you are not getting a true indication of what is going on in the chamber. I believe a proper plug cut BEFORE I trust a wideband--I use both, but plug reading is infallable. What ever the plug is showing is EXACTLY what is going on in your motor while the wideband sensor may be old or not warmed up or coated with debris that gives you a false readout. I personally think properly reading plugs is the most important tool you can use in getting a perfect tune.

I was on the dyno yesterday--and by reading the plugs I was able to discern that the car was close to perfect--at least as far as ignition timing is concerned--maybe a degree more which was actually a few degrees less than what I thought was "ideal"!! Those old plug articles for the "general public" are useless.

Also, to truly read the full throttle mixture--you either have to cut the threads off the plug to expose the whole porcelain or have a very, very good magnfier/plug reading light--to see the fuel ring which is way the hell down in there.


Modified by d16dcoe45 at 9:31 AM 1/18/2007


Modified by d16dcoe45 at 9:42 AM 1/18/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those plug company articles are very basic and give you no real info on how to properly read plugs. By reading plugs you can figure out if you low mid and high end are too rich/lean, if you need more or less timing (literally to the degree), if the heat range is correct or not, and if you are getting some detonation--you can have heavy detonation even if your plugs are fluffy black from a rich mixture--too much timing or wrong plug heat range. That is why those general plug charts aren't very good. Try this http://www.dragstuff.com/techa....html If you see the plugs in that article that have very close to perfect burns, the porcelain is bone white--although you don't read jetting/fuel off of the porcelain. Also, you can only reliably read one specific area of the powerband at a time. For a full throttle read, the dyno is great because you can immediatley coast down and shut the car off--if you do a full throttle pass and the idle the car for 3 minutes you are not getting a true indication of what is going on in the chamber. I believe a proper plug cut BEFORE I trust a wideband--I use both, but plug reading is infallable. What ever the plug is showing is EXACTLY what is going on in your motor while the wideband sensor may be old or not warmed up or coated with debris that gives you a false readout. I personally think properly reading plugs is the most important tool you can use in getting a perfect tune.

I was on the dyno yesterday--and by reading the plugs I was able to discern that the car was close to perfect--at least as far as ignition timing is concerned--maybe a degree more which was actually a few degrees less than what I thought was "ideal"!! Those old plug articles for the "general public" are useless.

Also, to truly read the full throttle mixture--you either have to cut the threads off the plug to expose the whole porcelain or have a very, very good magnfier/plug reading light--to see the fuel ring which is way the hell down in there.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the website very good info as for mine yes generic but just a starting point!

 

Oh yeah, its just that the spark plug companies are catering to the lowest common denomitor IE--white is too lean, black is too rich, and grey/brown is perfect--when in reality its so much more in depth. Its true though, while its possible for an EGT gauge or a wideband to give a false reading it is IMPOSSIBLE for the spark plug to "lie" about what is going on in the chamber!!

 

I don't need to take it from pro's because I leared it from a pro. And as d16dcoe45 pointed out "If you see the plugs in that article that have very close to perfect burns, the porcelain is bone white." So don't believe everything you read.