Ok, to start off with I will try to explain the details pertaining to the alarm on my car. I just bought this 1994 Civic Hatchback CX from a kid working on it as a project car. It didn't come with power door locks or windows from the factory. It has shaved door handles. The kid was in the process of hooking up the door poppers when I bought the car. Both door poppers are installed in the doors and are 2 wire poppers. But none of the wiring is completed. I am trying to figure out the wiring. My alarm unit is a Audiovox Prestige model APS610. So for the problem. I wiried the alarm to the wiring diagram's specs. I want it setup for a 2 step unlock mode, which the alarm does offer. Press the unlock button on the remote once, it opens the driver's door. Press it twice, it opens the passenger. Well it's not working right. When I hit the unlock button once, it will pop the drivers door, which is what I want. When I hit it twice, nothing happens to the passenger door. I have a feeling that I need to run a supplied relay for the passenger side, but I can't figure out how to wire the relay because I can hardly understand the wiring instructions and diagrams. All I need is for the solenoids to open the doors. It's not even unlocking or locking the door that's my concern. Please take a look and tell me if you can figure it out. Since the instructions are in Adobe format, I will give you the link to them.
The installation manual is the wiring info.
The user manual is pretty well how to work the remote and options and thing.
http://www.audiovox.com/webapp...PS610

Thanks for any input in advance.


Modified by sohczcturbo at 11:03 PM 1/17/2007

 

ok first of all are these "poppers"as you put, actuators, or solenoids? second. you dont even need to use the door lock outputs of the alarm, as these are not door locks. you need to use the aux. or extra channel outputs to triggers these through relays. if you use the lock/unlock outputs it will open the door automatically everytime you turn on/off your alarm. third you will need to figure out on the "poppers" which wire gets 12v and which wire gets ground to make the "poppers" open the doors. once this is determined, ground the wires that need ground, and send 12v to the others through a relay which is triggered from your extra channels. hope this helps.

 

right now it has silenoids, but I plan on swapping actuators because the silenoids are just too loud when ever i hit the unlock button. Sounds like someones kicking the side of my car. I know which wire i need to run a positive on. I am trying not the run the passenger side door silenoid to one the aux channels. It's simple. My idea is simple. I want to press the lock button, and the alarm will engage, and that's it. When i press the unlock button, I want the alarm to disengage and the driver's door to open. When i press the unlock button twice, I want it to unlock bothe the driver's and passenger door. This is called a 2 step door unlock setup. The wiring diagram shows a 2 step door unlock setup, but It simply isn't working on my application. I think it's because I don't have this relay wired up that came with the alarm. If worse comes to worse I will just wire the passengers side to my aux. option channel, but I'd atleast like to try and see if I can get this 2 step setup figured out. I only have 3 aux channels and I intend to use them all. One remote start, one for trunk popper (key hole is shaved as well), and the last for power window roll up when I install the power windows. Thanks for the comment.

 

Actuators probably wont be enough to pop open those doors. I've had problems with solenoids not being strong enough to pop open the doors. This was on a 90 Civic. When it was cold or wet outside, the weatherstripping around the door suctioned the door so tight that you had to press the button and kick the door at the same time to get the door open.

 

The actuator is just going to be attached to the lease arm on the door catch assembly. I pressed the release arm with my finger, opening the door, and it doesn't take much pressure. As my "popper", I am using a spring setup thats working great so far and no electricals to worry about going bad.

 

why dont you get a dei system that has more outputs? viper 791xv, viper 5000, and several others have like 6 channels. dei also makes a 450r which is a 6 ch expander. i used to have a 450r, and a viper 800esp on my truck. i had 12 channels, i could do all sorts of ****. also actuators will open those doors fine. i would suggest a harada dla-01, or a dei 524?? icant remember the last letter. good luck. so if your alarm is already off, and your door is shut you have to arm it and then disarm it again to open door right?

 

OK first I have to agree that door lock actuators will probably not be strong enough, the other thing to keep in mind is unlike a solenoid an actuator is not meant to go in one direction then spring back to a "rest position" it is meant to actuate in both directions, [using polarity reversing], I suppose you could install a spring to "pull" it back out , but really it's the wrong tool for the job..

As for the problem you have now, I assume you have the drivers door working properly, alarms door unlock output is connected to the relay controlling the solenoid in the drivers door, or you are using the alarms built in relay, is that correct?
It also sounds like you connected the second stage unlock output, [red/black or green/black] directly to the pass. solenoid, [with out the use of a relay] is that correct?

If so that is why it is not working, and lets hope you have not blown the second stage unlock output but then it looks like you have 2 of them.
Use the relay you have to supply the "high current" 12V+, [or the ground] to the solenoid, control the relay with the 2nd stage unlock output, [red/black or green/black on 2 pin connector, (probably 3pin but only 2 wires) if the 2nd stage output is blown, use the trunk release output, [2 dark blue wires] a 10A relay is on-board, whatever you put into one dark blue, [12V+ or ground] will be output for 800ms on the other dark blue, as long as the solenoid does not require more then 10A to work you do not need to use an off board relay, [the one you got with the alarm. 94

 

ok, thanks fcm but isn't this they way to hook it up to may aux channel? I already tried that and it works, so that's my back up plan. I was going to run a spring for the actuator arm for the pull back, but at this point i am just doing the silenoids just to i can roll my window up before it snows. I've tried every imaginable thing I could think of with out using the relay for the passenger side door lock. So could you please tell me how to wire the relay for the passenger side doorlock to work on the 2 step mode fcm? You obviously know what your doing unlike me lol. But thanks for the info you told me already. The dark bluye wires are my one of my aux channels and the does work, but if there is a way to use the 2 step unlock for this, It's make things a lot cleaner and simplier.

 

OK, ground the solenoid, run the solenoids power lead to #87 on the relay connect #30 and #86 to a fused 12V+ constant power source, connect the alarms 2nd step unlock output to #85 of the relay, like this... http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p

Now I am a little confused, you say you have already connected it to an AUX channel and it worked, do I assume it was AUX ch.3, [the dark blues] that you used? the ch.3 AUX output is the only one that is 10A the rest are 300mA outputs, not enough to power a solenoid. 94

 

man this thing is making me mad. I did what you said and ran the green as my trigger wire for the relay and it didn't work. I took a voltimeter to that trigger wire and i found the problem. It's only putting out a 2-3 volt current to the relay, so I'm thinking this isn't enough to flip the relay. I tried it on the blue wires and yes it works, but you have to hold the button down for 4 seconds before it will unlock. Instead I hooked it to aux channel 4, with is the options button on my remote. I does only send out a 300ma signal, but it's enough to flip the relay for the passenger side silenoid and it works instant to when I hit the button. I'm just gonna go with this set up cause I can't figure out how to do this 2 step and I really don't want to fork over a buncha cash to get it installed professionally. I took the voltameter to all the other wires of the unlock pin connector and only the white one was sending a 12 volt signal when I hit the unlock button once, and none were sending a signal when I hit it twice and had the green wire wired to the wiring manual specs. I must be doing something wrong, but for now I will just run the passenger side through channel 4. Thanks FCM for the input and if you think of anything else let me know, I greatly appreciate your help.

 

Well as long as it works.
Let me ask you this, there are 2 solenoids, and they are both wired to there own relays, [two relays] is that correct?
Also, what does that relay switch, is it the ground to the solenoid or the 12V+ to the solenoid?

On the 6pin door lock harness what wires are you using and where are they connected?

When you said , "I did what you said and ran the green as my trigger wire for the relay" what green wire are you talking about?

Also I made a mistake before, on the 2pin, [2 step unlock unlock output] all the aux outputs are 300mA grounds, with the exception of the 2 dark blues they are a 10A output, [relay built in] and can be 12V+ or ground, whatever you connect one of them to, [ground or 12V+] that is what the output of the other one will be.
The other one is the 6 pin door lock harness also 10A - 30A each, [lock and unlock relays built in] this output can be used for many types of door locks, including if you are adding door lock actuators, [polarity reversing system] if you are using it to control a relay, [off board] that is connected to the solenoid, you are using it as a pos.(+) or neg.(-) unlock pulse, that's why I asked about how it is wired.
Here is the mistake I made, the 2pin 2 step unlock harness has both a 300mA neg.(-) unlock output, [green/black] it also has a 300mA pos.(+) unlock output, [red/black] not sure why I thought they were both neg.(-) outputs.
Either one can be used, it depends on how the solenoid relay is wired.
You said that the only wire on the 6 pin door lock harness that had power, was the white wire, [unlock common] meaning that the orange with the fuse holder, [unlock N/O (normally open)] is connected to a 12V+ constant, this also means that you are using a pos.(+) to trigger the drivers door solenoid, but if you are using the dark green/black it is a neg.(-) 300mA latching output, [on as long as you hold the remote button, and you say it works, meaning you are triggering the pass. door solenoid with a neg.(-) trigger.
You kind of have me confused.
If the dark green/black works to pop the pass. door then the green/black in the 2 pin 2 step unlock harness should also work, unless that output is blown, it should supply a neg.(-) 300mA trigger when you press the unlock button on the remote a second time. 94

 

TO FCM:

K, Ive been isntalling the car alarm for the past 4 hours and still have a ways to go, so many fricken wires lol. But here it is.
I voltemetered these wires and here's the currents i got.
green w/ black from the 2 step pin = 2-3 volts + when i hit unlock button the second time.
red on 2 step pin = constant 12 v +
As far as I under stand, I thought I could run my drivers side solenoid hardwired directly to the white wire of the 6 pin and run a ground to the other wire coming from the solenoid. This is working, so I'm thinking that the alarm system just has an internal relay for the drivers side. The hardwired white has been working great so far. The passenger side I will be running the green w/black wire as my relay trigger wire. The passenger side relay with be switching from ground to 12+ to the solenoid. I tried this here on my computer desk with a 12v power converter and it worked great on my actuators, but I haven't gotten that far tonight while isntalling everything. Also, yes I am running the orange to 12v+. I used your 12volt website to figure out how to wire the relays and I finally got it down. So far the driver's side is opening perfectly everytime. No problems at all. How ever, I did want to ask you where do you recommend I mount my shock sensor? my alarm unit is tucked under the passenger side dash behind the glove box and I will have about 1 foot of wire to locate the shock sensor with. I found a nice open metal spot on the fire wall it could reach but I just wanted to get your input and thoughts before I actually did so. I appreciat you taking the time and checking out the manuals and helping me out. You've helped me a ton so far.

 

As I thought, a relay is not needed, [off-board] for the drivers side solenoid as it is built into the alarm, the only wires you need of that 6 pin harness is the white and orange you are using, you can remove the rest.

Also as I thought the 2 stage unlock outputs are both blown, the green/black should be giving you a 300mA ground output when you press the button the second time, not 2V-3V pos.(+), the red/black should be giving you a 300mA pos.(+) output when button is pressed a second time, not 12V+ constant.

Hint.. voltage and current are two diff. things, you can have 12.5V+ W/ 300mA of current, like the red/black should be, [when button pressed a second time]
or you can have 12.5V+ and 10A of current, like the white wire is giving you from the 6 pin door harness, it takes less then 200mA to energize a relay, but you can connect a 10A circuit to a relay, it will still only use less the 200mA of the available 10A of current.

As for the impact sensor, Audiovox recommends a solid mounting surface on the firewall or you can wire-strap it to any fixed brace.
I would try it on a brace first, see how it works, if installed and adjusted properly you should have fairly even coverage all over the car, light impact should trigger the warn a way hard ones should trigger the full alarming mode, it is installed and adjusted properly if you can kick the tires real hard with nothing more then the warn a way mode going off, [maybe] but cracking a lug nut free triggers the full alarming mode. 94

 

Well I got the alarm hooked up for the most part. All that's left is the trunk popper and the door light switches and simple things like that. The drivers and passenger side door are working splendidly lol. I can't stop playing with them. Also, when I bought that car, it had a blown timing belt. So for ***** and giggles me and my friends put another timing belt on just to see if the valves got bent. None of them did, thing runs like a charm. I also found out that the car is a CX body trim but has an EX transmission, so I was happy to see that. But thanks for the help FCM and I'm sure you'll probably here more from me.

Thanks,

Jay

 

YW 94