I have a LSD transmissioin on the way with a ACT Clutch and Fidenza Fly wheel.

thats the major Stuff.

Is there anything else that I should do while I've got this thing ripped apart.

Maybe i'm missing something small

What are the ACT pilot bearings like? or should I pick up an OEM?
oils? orings cotter pins? anything like that that I might need.

First Time I have done this job myself so I am not sure about what small little things I will need.

And is alinging everyhthing easy to do?? are there instructions somewhere?

thanks in advance

Chris

 

Depending on what kind of shape the transmission is in, you might need to change the rubber bits on the top end of the trans. At a very minimum, I'd change the driveshaft seals on the trans.

With the Fidanza flywheel, I'd use high temp Loctite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I've never had a problem, but I've seen one set of flywheel bolts back out on a Fidanza flywheel. The guy that installed it is very good, so I don't think installation was the issue. The Loctite is good insurance against having the bolts back out, though. Also use high temp grease on the input shaft, clutch fork pivot, etc. You can reuse the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, no problem.

You'll need cotter pins to replace the ones from the lower ball joints, tie rods, and shifter cables. If your rear engine mount is in questionable shape, now is the time to replace it. Same goes for the passenger's side engine mount.

 

Dont forget the rear main seal. Change that biatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cdoucet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are the ACT pilot bearings like? or should I pick up an OEM?
oils? orings cotter pins? anything like that that I might need.

And is alinging everyhthing easy to do?? are there instructions somewhere?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do a quick search of my name, there is a transmission removal writeup if I remember right

The fidanza comes with the pilot bearing installed, theirs should be fine, but just give it a few spins and feel for any binding

To align it all, you will need the clutch alignment tool, a $5 piece of plastic, if the guy doesn't send it with the stuff, then just get one from your local napa, they should have them in stock

good luck

 

Yeah the Kit comes with the alignment tool.

Just not sure what to expect.

As this is the first time i've ever done anything like this.


the locite is just some form of substance that would be place over the bolts or on the bolts?

what do the driveshaft seals normal run for?
and rear main seal?

thanks for the help

 

a rear main and 2 axle seals will be about $15 if i remember right

loctite is just a liquid you apply to threads before tightening the bolt or nut down, get the red one, lowes or home depot even has it

did you find my writeup?? if not, basically you just have to drop the under-engine brace, the passenger side radius arm, and disconnect the various little things attached to the trans

get all the old stuff out, then take all the nuts off the flywheel, apply the loctite, then re-tighten those nuts, call fidanza for a torque spec. Then change out the rear main, and torque on the flywheel. Put the clutch disk against the pressure plate, and lift the assembly into place, make sure the flywheel side of the clutch is indeed facing the flywheel, fit the pressure plate onto the dowels on the flywheel, and then insert the alignment tool. Then you can torque all the clutch bolts down and reinstall the trans.

 

For the rear main seal i suggest you buy the entire cover which already has the seal installed. Its a pretty big seal and if you dont have the right driver for it you could screw up and install it wrong. And you DO NOT want that to leak after you have finished putting everything back together because you will have to take it all apart to fix the seal. The cover cost about $50 but its well worth it and saves you the time and hassel of driving a new seal in place. Just my suggestion.

 

Just an FYI revi: You don't always need the correct seal driver, for smaller ones you can use a big socket. For something like the rear main, you can just push it in with your fingers as much as possible, and then use a big, flat tipped punch or screwdriver, and very carefully go around the circle, just don't drive it too far in, and it will be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just an FYI revi: You don't always need the correct seal driver, for smaller ones you can use a big socket. For something like the rear main, you can just push it in with your fingers as much as possible, and then use a big, flat tipped punch or screwdriver, and very carefully go around the circle, just don't drive it too far in, and it will be fine </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true, i have used this method before. But with the rear main seal it would be to much work to do again if you were to mess up, i would rather just buy the cover with the seal already installed just for this particular situation. All the other seals around the engine i would replace themselves.

No Oil Leakage FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cdoucet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are there instructions somewhere?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a couple writeups for installation in the FAQ, but here's a link with some additional observations and tips I had after doing it a couple weeks ago.

http://www.bayareaprelude.com/...12871

 

I'm doing the exact same thing and I'd like to know more about this "cover" with the rear main seal already installed, whats the name for it if I were to go to the auto parts store and ask for one?