Castle nut won't go on lower ball joint!
It's the one under the brakes, the one you have to take out to pull the axles off the hub...well I'm trying to put the castle nut back on but, the whole bolt thing is spining and won't go any further.
The bolt doesn't look to be stripped, I can still get the nut on but barley and it just keeps spining everything and not go any more. The threads look fine.
This is a thumbnail, so click on the picture. The silvery stuff on side is just anti-seize.

Modified by DFW at 8:27 PM 1/16/2007
Modified by DFW at 8:28 PM 1/16/2007
The bolt doesn't look to be stripped, I can still get the nut on but barley and it just keeps spining everything and not go any more. The threads look fine.
This is a thumbnail, so click on the picture. The silvery stuff on side is just anti-seize.

Modified by DFW at 8:27 PM 1/16/2007
Modified by DFW at 8:28 PM 1/16/2007
You can try chasing the threads on the castle nut and ball joint with a tap/die set... If you have access to air tools, you can try forcing it on there, or just replace the ball joint altogether...
pry the arm towards the ball joint it has no tension around and that why the stud is spinning. is easier if you have an air tool
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dagul »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can try chasing the threads on the castle nut and ball joint with a tap/die set... If you have access to air tools, you can try forcing it on there, or just replace the ball joint altogether... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try that if I can't get it on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaun_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take this time to replace the ball joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have time, need the car on the road tonight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Otherguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mushroomed the threads </TD></TR></TABLE>
I doesn't look like it did, don't know how I would anyways I didn't hit or anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pry the arm towards the ball joint it has no tension around and that why the stud is spinning. is easier if you have an air tool</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh ic, I'll try that then.
I'll try that if I can't get it on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaun_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take this time to replace the ball joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have time, need the car on the road tonight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Otherguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mushroomed the threads </TD></TR></TABLE>
I doesn't look like it did, don't know how I would anyways I didn't hit or anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pry the arm towards the ball joint it has no tension around and that why the stud is spinning. is easier if you have an air tool</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh ic, I'll try that then.
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When you use a ball joint seperator, you're supposed to take off the castle nut, then screw it back on upside down so the seperator presses on the butt of the nut and not the theaded part of the balljoint.
When I've not done that, and F'd up the balljoint like this. I've taken a file and filed the threads off the upper part of the balljoint, just enough to let me get past the screwed up part of the threads. Normally you just need to do down to where the cotter pin hole is so, there's still plenty of threads when you tighten it back down for real.
When I've not done that, and F'd up the balljoint like this. I've taken a file and filed the threads off the upper part of the balljoint, just enough to let me get past the screwed up part of the threads. Normally you just need to do down to where the cotter pin hole is so, there's still plenty of threads when you tighten it back down for real.
same **** happened to mine... u could get a new ball joint, but u need a ball joint popper to get the bitch out... what side is it? I have a whole brake knuckle/spindle that you could use if it's the right one.... That's the easier route, just buy a new brake spindle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you use a ball joint seperator, you're supposed to take off the castle nut, then screw it back on upside down so the seperator presses on the butt of the nut and not the theaded part of the balljoint.
When I've not done that, and F'd up the balljoint like this. I've taken a file and filed the threads off the upper part of the balljoint, just enough to let me get past the screwed up part of the threads. Normally you just need to do down to where the cotter pin hole is so, there's still plenty of threads when you tighten it back down for real. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So I guess I just have to rethread it?
When I've not done that, and F'd up the balljoint like this. I've taken a file and filed the threads off the upper part of the balljoint, just enough to let me get past the screwed up part of the threads. Normally you just need to do down to where the cotter pin hole is so, there's still plenty of threads when you tighten it back down for real. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So I guess I just have to rethread it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmEj1! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same **** happened to mine... u could get a new ball joint, but u need a ball joint popper to get the bitch out... what side is it? I have a whole brake knuckle/spindle that you could use if it's the right one.... That's the easier route, just buy a new brake spindle</TD></TR></TABLE>
lmao seriously just buy a new knuckle... i have one if u want it! it's hella easier that way!
lmao seriously just buy a new knuckle... i have one if u want it! it's hella easier that way!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DFW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I CANT I NEED THE CAR TONIGHT</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn good luck than lmao... ur **** is stripped man, be smart and buy a new ball joint or just a whole new knuckle. Dont try to rig something up and get in a wreck or something over it...
damn good luck than lmao... ur **** is stripped man, be smart and buy a new ball joint or just a whole new knuckle. Dont try to rig something up and get in a wreck or something over it...
I've been driving my car at the track like this for 2 years now. R compound tires and all. You simply crushed the hole where the cottor pin goes. File off the last 3-4 threads around that hole. You're reducing the DIAMETER and not filing the stud shorter. Then stick the castle nut on, tighten it down to the required spec and you're good. The same number of full threads are engaged as on a non-F'd up ball joint. The threads around the castle part of the nut are useless anyway.
Looking at the picture, yours is pretty mild. I imagine some light filing would fix it.
Modified by MasterKwan at 7:52 PM 1/16/2007
Looking at the picture, yours is pretty mild. I imagine some light filing would fix it.
Modified by MasterKwan at 7:52 PM 1/16/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been driving my car at the track like this for 2 years now. R compound tires and all. You simply crushed the hole where the cottor pin goes. File off the last 3-4 threads around that hole. You're reducing the DIAMETER and not filing the stud shorter. Then stick the castle nut on, tighten it down to the required spec and you're good. The same number of full threads are engaged as on a non-F'd up ball joint. The threads around the castle part of the nut are useless anyway.
Looking at the picture, yours is pretty mild. I imagine some light filing would fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So just file down the last few threads so its smooth and just put the castle nut on the rest? Can't I just rethread it?
Looking at the picture, yours is pretty mild. I imagine some light filing would fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So just file down the last few threads so its smooth and just put the castle nut on the rest? Can't I just rethread it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strictly.business »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its because your ******* ball joint spins. use an impact wrench on it and be done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i cant even get the nut on anymore
well i cant even get the nut on anymore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DFW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the one under the brakes, the one you have to take out to pull the axles off the hub...well I'm trying to put the castle nut back on but, the whole bolt thing is spining and won't go any further.
The bolt doesn't look to be stripped, I can still get the nut on but barley and it just keeps spining everything and not go any more. The threads look fine.
This is a thumbnail, so click on the picture. The silvery stuff on side is just anti-seize.

Modified by DFW at 8:27 PM 1/16/2007
Modified by DFW at 8:28 PM 1/16/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
if u are goin to be werking on your cars...i suggest that u invest in a air compressor w/ air tools ...so u wont be stuck like this ........^
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pry the arm towards the ball joint it has no tension around and that why the stud is spinning. is easier if you have an air tool</TD></TR></TABLE>
The bolt doesn't look to be stripped, I can still get the nut on but barley and it just keeps spining everything and not go any more. The threads look fine.
This is a thumbnail, so click on the picture. The silvery stuff on side is just anti-seize.

Modified by DFW at 8:27 PM 1/16/2007
Modified by DFW at 8:28 PM 1/16/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
if u are goin to be werking on your cars...i suggest that u invest in a air compressor w/ air tools ...so u wont be stuck like this ........^
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pry the arm towards the ball joint it has no tension around and that why the stud is spinning. is easier if you have an air tool</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u are goin to be werking on your cars...i suggest that u invest in a air compressor w/ air tools ...so u wont be stuck like this ........^
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i do have an air compressor with gun, it wont ever stay on the bolt. whenever i used it it spins off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i do have an air compressor with gun, it wont ever stay on the bolt. whenever i used it it spins off.
f*** that nut use another nut. make sure this one isn't f uped. put the car on a jack stand. and then put a the jack under the lca arm and start to jack it up, but not too far to lift the car off the jack stand. that will give you pressure on the ball joint for it won't spin. try it, it works, but it also works alot better with power tools lol. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civtegra_hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">f*** that nut use another nut. make sure this one isn't f uped. put the car on a jack stand. and then put a the jack under the lca arm and start to jack it up, but not too far to lift the car off the jack stand. that will give you pressure on the ball joint for it won't spin. try it, it works, but it also works alot better with power tools lol. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
i tried the nut off the other side and it does the same thing lol.
i tried the nut off the other side and it does the same thing lol.


