just another ? about lsvtec
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: palm bay, florida, brevard
ok, a couple of questions.
1st ? is theres a bad @ss post about building a lsvtec and i cant find it for the life of me. i ran across it about 4 months ago, printed it and cant find the paper. so i started to look for the post and cant find it so if someone can send me a link to the post that would be awsome. the post consisted of a good basic break down of building a lsv including pictures and basic intructions and requirements as far as what you needed for the build varying from a minimum required to basically a wish list for a bad @ss build.
i basically know what i want and am only a few components away from starting the build. im a little confused on which way to go as far as my bottom end. i have two options. one is i have a running driving 93 b18a1 in my car now that runs fairly well. id give it a 8 out of a 1-10 in condition. i work at honda so if something brakes or just needing some minor fixing i get the parts there there. im concidering using the bottom end from that motor to use for my lsv. BUT! i have another bottom end that has some scaring on the cylinderwalls sitting in the corner of my garage. its already boared 20 so it kind of sucks. it already is tapped with a knock sensor, has aa GSR water pump and a GSR oil pump on it.
so basically should i use the running bottom end and stay 81mm and get some p30 pistons or p30 equivilant aftermarket pistons.
OR
use the scared bottom end and bore it to 82mm and get after market p30 equivilant pistons.
reason im saying p30 or p30 equal is because i think thats the pistons i need to go with. my setup is going to consist of a 1st gen b16a head i picked up with a mild mild pollish done to it, it has skunk2 titanium valve prings and GSR cams in it (later once the motor is on the road i plan on getting skunk2 stage 2 cams but there not in the budget right now. im using a skunk2 intake manifold portmatched to a 70mm BBK tb and am planning on starting the build i think with stock injectors but hope to have RC 370 injectors by the time im ready.(debate is between 310s and 370s). right now i have a one peice cold air from aem but im switching to that big @ss password carbon fiber intake soon. my exaust is a dc sports 4-1 header going to a 2 1/2 apexi world sport2. i running a jdm J1 cable tranny for now. as far as my bottom end goes. i have a set of eagle H beam rods im usings. (now im a bit concerned because i heard an old desine of eagle used smaller rod bolts and they suposedly still break??? god i hope thats a mith.... lol )there brand new been sitting on the shelf waiting. i talked to a good machine shop here in brevard (Scovals in merritt island.) and he said it will cost about 80 bucks to bore it out and 150 to balance everything in the bottom end but he wont blueprint it due to the fact that he said its alot of pointless work that usually only is done to sell a motor and if i plan to street it whats really the need. im basiclly to the point where all i need to get the motor running is GSR head studs, Pistons, and the machine work done to the bottom end. another thing im not sure about is which ecu to run. i own a jdm p30 and also have my hands on a p28. theres a local guy who is supposed to be real good at tuning using chrome but i dont know if i want to go with him or someone maybe from orlando. i would really like to find someone who can give me a good tune using the jdm p30. i think my compression will be around 12.5:1. not exacally sure but i know i was to run as high as compression as i can and still run 93 pump gas. i hear it hard to get that high but with a good tune its possible. i would like to be able to rev high and still be relyable. i dont plan on beating it everyday but it will be a daily driver and i want the power to be there. as far as race. i would rather be set up for auto cross than drag. drag is fun but i think it will get old quick and auto cross interests me more but i would still like to shoot for 13s or 12s in the quarter in a 92 civic cx hatch. maybe im asking a bit much. aspecially since im even wondering if i can spray for turbo later on while being that high of compression. let me know what you think. and hopefully someone will drop me that link.
nate
1st ? is theres a bad @ss post about building a lsvtec and i cant find it for the life of me. i ran across it about 4 months ago, printed it and cant find the paper. so i started to look for the post and cant find it so if someone can send me a link to the post that would be awsome. the post consisted of a good basic break down of building a lsv including pictures and basic intructions and requirements as far as what you needed for the build varying from a minimum required to basically a wish list for a bad @ss build.
i basically know what i want and am only a few components away from starting the build. im a little confused on which way to go as far as my bottom end. i have two options. one is i have a running driving 93 b18a1 in my car now that runs fairly well. id give it a 8 out of a 1-10 in condition. i work at honda so if something brakes or just needing some minor fixing i get the parts there there. im concidering using the bottom end from that motor to use for my lsv. BUT! i have another bottom end that has some scaring on the cylinderwalls sitting in the corner of my garage. its already boared 20 so it kind of sucks. it already is tapped with a knock sensor, has aa GSR water pump and a GSR oil pump on it.
so basically should i use the running bottom end and stay 81mm and get some p30 pistons or p30 equivilant aftermarket pistons.
OR
use the scared bottom end and bore it to 82mm and get after market p30 equivilant pistons.
reason im saying p30 or p30 equal is because i think thats the pistons i need to go with. my setup is going to consist of a 1st gen b16a head i picked up with a mild mild pollish done to it, it has skunk2 titanium valve prings and GSR cams in it (later once the motor is on the road i plan on getting skunk2 stage 2 cams but there not in the budget right now. im using a skunk2 intake manifold portmatched to a 70mm BBK tb and am planning on starting the build i think with stock injectors but hope to have RC 370 injectors by the time im ready.(debate is between 310s and 370s). right now i have a one peice cold air from aem but im switching to that big @ss password carbon fiber intake soon. my exaust is a dc sports 4-1 header going to a 2 1/2 apexi world sport2. i running a jdm J1 cable tranny for now. as far as my bottom end goes. i have a set of eagle H beam rods im usings. (now im a bit concerned because i heard an old desine of eagle used smaller rod bolts and they suposedly still break??? god i hope thats a mith.... lol )there brand new been sitting on the shelf waiting. i talked to a good machine shop here in brevard (Scovals in merritt island.) and he said it will cost about 80 bucks to bore it out and 150 to balance everything in the bottom end but he wont blueprint it due to the fact that he said its alot of pointless work that usually only is done to sell a motor and if i plan to street it whats really the need. im basiclly to the point where all i need to get the motor running is GSR head studs, Pistons, and the machine work done to the bottom end. another thing im not sure about is which ecu to run. i own a jdm p30 and also have my hands on a p28. theres a local guy who is supposed to be real good at tuning using chrome but i dont know if i want to go with him or someone maybe from orlando. i would really like to find someone who can give me a good tune using the jdm p30. i think my compression will be around 12.5:1. not exacally sure but i know i was to run as high as compression as i can and still run 93 pump gas. i hear it hard to get that high but with a good tune its possible. i would like to be able to rev high and still be relyable. i dont plan on beating it everyday but it will be a daily driver and i want the power to be there. as far as race. i would rather be set up for auto cross than drag. drag is fun but i think it will get old quick and auto cross interests me more but i would still like to shoot for 13s or 12s in the quarter in a 92 civic cx hatch. maybe im asking a bit much. aspecially since im even wondering if i can spray for turbo later on while being that high of compression. let me know what you think. and hopefully someone will drop me that link.
nate
let me try to break this down...
310's are good. you can make decent power with them. i would use a 3'' sri with a vstack instead of that whale dick intake.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my exaust is a dc sports 4-1 header going to a 2 1/2 apexi world sport2. i running a jdm J1 cable tranny for now. as far as my bottom end goes. i have a set of eagle H beam rods im usings. (now im a bit concerned because i heard an old desine of eagle used smaller rod bolts and they suposedly still break??? god i hope thats a mith.... lol )there brand new been sitting on the shelf waiting. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would get a better header with a 2.5'' collector. the eagle rods with the smaller 5/16 bolts are fine if you're not throwing a lot of power at them. they break in boosted setups making lots of power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i talked to a good machine shop here in brevard (Scovals in merritt island.) and he said it will cost about 80 bucks to bore it out and 150 to balance everything in the bottom end but he wont blueprint it due to the fact that he said its alot of pointless work that usually only is done to sell a motor and if i plan to street it whats really the need. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it sounds like he's just being lazy and doesnt want to do the work. blueprinting is always a good idea to make sure all clearances are within spec. i would go to a different shop if that's what he's telling you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im basiclly to the point where all i need to get the motor running is GSR head studs, Pistons, and the machine work done to the bottom end. another thing im not sure about is which ecu to run. i own a jdm p30 and also have my hands on a p28. theres a local guy who is supposed to be real good at tuning using chrome but i dont know if i want to go with him or someone maybe from orlando. i would really like to find someone who can give me a good tune using the jdm p30. </TD></TR></TABLE>
either one of those ecu's can be chipped if they're obd1 so it doesnt matter which one you use. find a good tuner and let him handle it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think my compression will be around 12.5:1. not exacally sure but i know i was to run as high as compression as i can and still run 93 pump gas. i hear it hard to get that high but with a good tune its possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's possible, but why not go with less compression and make more power running more timing and be safer with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i would like to be able to rev high and still be relyable. i dont plan on beating it everyday but it will be a daily driver and i want the power to be there. as far as race. i would rather be set up for auto cross than drag. drag is fun but i think it will get old quick and auto cross interests me more but i would still like to shoot for 13s or 12s in the quarter in a 92 civic cx hatch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would be more worried about suspension if auto-x is your thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe im asking a bit much. aspecially since im even wondering if i can spray for turbo later on while being that high of compression. let me know what you think. and hopefully someone will drop me that link.
nate
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can boost with high compression but you have less room for error when tuning. you better have a very good tuner.
hope this helps
Originally Posted by sled
reason im saying p30 or p30 equal is because i think thats the pistons i need to go with. my setup is going to consist of a 1st gen b16a head i picked up with a mild mild pollish done to it, it has skunk2 titanium valve prings and GSR cams in it (later once the motor is on the road i plan on getting skunk2 stage 2 cams but there not in the budget right now. im using a skunk2 intake manifold portmatched to a 70mm BBK tb and am planning on starting the build i think with stock injectors but hope to have RC 370 injectors by the time im ready.(debate is between 310s and 370s). right now i have a one peice cold air from aem but im switching to that big @ss password carbon fiber intake soon.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my exaust is a dc sports 4-1 header going to a 2 1/2 apexi world sport2. i running a jdm J1 cable tranny for now. as far as my bottom end goes. i have a set of eagle H beam rods im usings. (now im a bit concerned because i heard an old desine of eagle used smaller rod bolts and they suposedly still break??? god i hope thats a mith.... lol )there brand new been sitting on the shelf waiting. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would get a better header with a 2.5'' collector. the eagle rods with the smaller 5/16 bolts are fine if you're not throwing a lot of power at them. they break in boosted setups making lots of power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i talked to a good machine shop here in brevard (Scovals in merritt island.) and he said it will cost about 80 bucks to bore it out and 150 to balance everything in the bottom end but he wont blueprint it due to the fact that he said its alot of pointless work that usually only is done to sell a motor and if i plan to street it whats really the need. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it sounds like he's just being lazy and doesnt want to do the work. blueprinting is always a good idea to make sure all clearances are within spec. i would go to a different shop if that's what he's telling you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im basiclly to the point where all i need to get the motor running is GSR head studs, Pistons, and the machine work done to the bottom end. another thing im not sure about is which ecu to run. i own a jdm p30 and also have my hands on a p28. theres a local guy who is supposed to be real good at tuning using chrome but i dont know if i want to go with him or someone maybe from orlando. i would really like to find someone who can give me a good tune using the jdm p30. </TD></TR></TABLE>
either one of those ecu's can be chipped if they're obd1 so it doesnt matter which one you use. find a good tuner and let him handle it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think my compression will be around 12.5:1. not exacally sure but i know i was to run as high as compression as i can and still run 93 pump gas. i hear it hard to get that high but with a good tune its possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's possible, but why not go with less compression and make more power running more timing and be safer with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i would like to be able to rev high and still be relyable. i dont plan on beating it everyday but it will be a daily driver and i want the power to be there. as far as race. i would rather be set up for auto cross than drag. drag is fun but i think it will get old quick and auto cross interests me more but i would still like to shoot for 13s or 12s in the quarter in a 92 civic cx hatch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would be more worried about suspension if auto-x is your thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe im asking a bit much. aspecially since im even wondering if i can spray for turbo later on while being that high of compression. let me know what you think. and hopefully someone will drop me that link.
nate
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can boost with high compression but you have less room for error when tuning. you better have a very good tuner.
hope this helps

Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: palm bay, florida, brevard
dooooooooood.... lol thank you, what do you think about the block choices? should i use the good 81mm block or bore the 2nd block to 82mm. i dont want to sleeve. but i am thinking of thorwing in a block guard. i have heard 82 is largest recomended to go without sleeving?
i'd use the block you have now and keep it 81mm. but, how bad are the cylinders in the other block? see if you can do a slight overbore to 81.5mm to clean them up. if you can do that use it so you minimize downtime.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rebecca_mtl
Honda Minivans, Crossovers, and Trucks
19
May 19, 2009 12:27 PM



