bolt problem.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: blowin caps an rotors, ma, usa
im doing a rear disk conversion on my ek. but i cant get any of the flinging blots off. any ideas. i tried pb blaster and the impact gun but they still wont budge
Maybe a nice breaker bar, such as a 2 ft breaker bar? Use all your weight and put it on the bar, if it's stripped you could try the craftsman bolt outs. But a couple of times I had problems with big bolts they had to be heated to a very high temperature and one I had to have cut out with a torch.
You could try it just be careful with what you're working around (such as fuel, brake lines, rubber or plastic anything) I've gotton that kinda stuff loose with a benzomatic torches...however you don't really need to go BUY a breaker bar, if you jsut have a decent size ratchet wrench, and a decent length of pipe, you can slide it over it and use it, plus if your ratchet is craftsman and it breaks just return it.
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Surpisingly yes, sometimes the "impacting" action of the gun counteracts the loosening if you will. Example: On my wheels (aftermarket) I can't get my impact to get them completely off, that's running the impact on setting 5 and at 100 PSI. But if I just lower the car to the ground and use the lug-nut wrench (4-way) to loosen them up then jack the car and finish the job with the impact, it works perfectly fine, so give it a shot. Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenManR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you realy think a breaker bar is going to be better than an impact gun. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah most of the time it is better because of the leverage that you can get...
good luck
yeah most of the time it is better because of the leverage that you can get...
good luck
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: blowin caps an rotors, ma, usa
breaker bar was a failure cuz it snaped one. so now im screwd cuz i can get any of them off. can i broke one that connects my camber adjustmnet..
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Well I don't know what you have apart 'n such but at a shop they usually have higher powered impact wrenches for crank pulley bolts and such.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenManR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its sucks. waht do you sugest i do know. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Get your **** towed to a shop that can handle this kind of work. I'm tickled that you're going to end up spending a shitload of money on a conversion that's not going to net you any better braking power whatsoever
Unless you road race - which you don't - rear discs are completely unecessary because normal driving won't induce fade to a point that you can feel.
Way to research before you broke things
Get your **** towed to a shop that can handle this kind of work. I'm tickled that you're going to end up spending a shitload of money on a conversion that's not going to net you any better braking power whatsoever
Unless you road race - which you don't - rear discs are completely unecessary because normal driving won't induce fade to a point that you can feel.Way to research before you broke things
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a 4' breaker bar, if you cant get **** off with that its better left alone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the thread: he snapped a bolt in half using a breaker bar already.
Read the thread: he snapped a bolt in half using a breaker bar already.
LCA's are $100, buy a set. Buy new bolts from Honda, cut them apart as needed and replace the LCA's. I've never actually seen the trailing arm to LCA bolt freeze up but, I suppose it happens.
Another option's to disconnect the trailing arm, LCA and coilover as a unit to get it off the car and then you can work on it on a bench.
The bolts are only torqued to 36 ft/lbs. If they won't budge, there's no point going farther till you get replacement parts. Once the bolts sieze in the LCA's, it's replacement or drill out time and drilling out those hardened bolts is the worst.
Another option's to disconnect the trailing arm, LCA and coilover as a unit to get it off the car and then you can work on it on a bench.
The bolts are only torqued to 36 ft/lbs. If they won't budge, there's no point going farther till you get replacement parts. Once the bolts sieze in the LCA's, it's replacement or drill out time and drilling out those hardened bolts is the worst.
yeah i snapped a bolt in my rear LCA's and it was the ******* outer one. Honda sells all the bushing for them but the outer ones becasue they come prepressed. Pick up some breaker bars. I payed under 20 dollars for both of these.



