viper 791xv w/remote start in dc2, car wont start when cold... ?
my car has problems starting lately and i think it might be my alarm, this morning it wouldnt start at all, some mornings if its a little later in the day or warmer outside i can get it to start by pushing on the fusebox and cranking at the same time. im wondering if the relay satalite (starter kill) is going out. the car dosent even try cranking over, like the starter wire is cut, im also not totally convinced that the problem is the alarm, when i looked the wiring over everything seemed perfect. ive had problems for a while but now that its getting colder i dont even feel like trying to start it if i work anytime before 11. any ideas?
I have the exact same problem now that it is cold out. Same exact alarm Viper791XV.
In the morning it won't start but whe it's like11 or 12ish, when the car is a little warmer, it starts up fine.
The lights work fine but when i go to turn the key I get no sounds, only the gauge lights going on, same as you.
Let me know if you find the answer out.
Thanks
In the morning it won't start but whe it's like11 or 12ish, when the car is a little warmer, it starts up fine.
The lights work fine but when i go to turn the key I get no sounds, only the gauge lights going on, same as you.
Let me know if you find the answer out.
Thanks
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Is it the older relay pack or the new micro pack?
Usually in very cold weather and when you cold start the car you need to crank the car a little longer for it to start. I've noticed this with my Honda Civic. Not sure if that may be the exact issue, but it may have something to do with that.
Who installed your alarm/starter's? Did they hook it up to a tach source? If not, thats your problem. The crank time isn't set long enough. If it was hooked to tach, the starter would crank until it started.
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Sounds like the tach needs to be reprogrammed, just like JDM_Ej said.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you ripping off fcm's avatar bro? That is seriously confusing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah no joke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you ripping off fcm's avatar bro? That is seriously confusing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah no joke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you ripping off fcm's avatar bro? That is seriously confusing.</TD></TR></TABLE>Confuses you LOL? I keep reading stuff and can't remember saying it.
No biggie, just confusing
Anyway, I believe wrx-killer-Sti eater is on the right track.
If it will not start with the remote or the key, I would bet its the starter relay, in the relay pack, or connection problems.
If it will not start with the remote but will with the key, could still be a problem with the relay, but it could also be with the main unit.
Then again if optional starter cut relay was installed, controlled by orange wire on main harness plug [H1], that relay may be bad.
94
No biggie, just confusing
Anyway, I believe wrx-killer-Sti eater is on the right track.
If it will not start with the remote or the key, I would bet its the starter relay, in the relay pack, or connection problems.
If it will not start with the remote but will with the key, could still be a problem with the relay, but it could also be with the main unit.
Then again if optional starter cut relay was installed, controlled by orange wire on main harness plug [H1], that relay may be bad.
94
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Justin I vote that you change your avatar. fcm I thought you fell and bumped your head, with these last post, lol. I have had problems with the new mirco packs. Starting issues. I have also had problem with the older relay style packs. Acuttaly one problem with a bad relay that stuck and kept the ignition on. But that was years ago. Unlike the older pack that was bulky and hard to hide. It was easy to swapp a relay to fix the problem. The newer pack you have to change the whole thing. I would check all the connections. Take fcm advice and see if the orange wire off the main harnnes is connected to a relay to prevent starter grind.
Fcm If I remeber right the older pack still provided anti-starter grind with out adding a extra relay. But I not sure if the installer add it to his car anyways.
Fcm If I remeber right the older pack still provided anti-starter grind with out adding a extra relay. But I not sure if the installer add it to his car anyways.
I have also run into relays that have burnt contacts, [poor connections when energized] even the odd seized, [stuck] relay, almost always on relays that do not have the diode across 85 and 86.
I do not remember a starter in/out on the older satellite relay packs, and yea a lot easier to replace a defective relay.
That may also be the problem here if it is the newer enclosed relay pack, the relays a circuit board mounted, possible a cold solder joint.
94
I do not remember a starter in/out on the older satellite relay packs, and yea a lot easier to replace a defective relay.
That may also be the problem here if it is the newer enclosed relay pack, the relays a circuit board mounted, possible a cold solder joint.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RICO_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Usually in very cold weather and when you cold start the car you need to crank the car a little longer for it to start. I've noticed this with my Honda Civic. Not sure if that may be the exact issue, but it may have something to do with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car doesnt even crank
the car doesnt even crank
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Justin I vote that you change your avatar. fcm I thought you fell and bumped your head, with these last post, lol. I have had problems with the new mirco packs. Starting issues. I have also had problem with the older relay style packs. Acuttaly one problem with a bad relay that stuck and kept the ignition on. But that was years ago. Unlike the older pack that was bulky and hard to hide. It was easy to swapp a relay to fix the problem. The newer pack you have to change the whole thing. I would check all the connections. Take fcm advice and see if the orange wire off the main harnnes is connected to a relay to prevent starter grind.
Fcm If I remeber right the older pack still provided anti-starter grind with out adding a extra relay. But I not sure if the installer add it to his car anyways.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant remember when i got this avatar, i promise i didnt steal it from fcm, i think i got it from family guys web site, dont worry, ive been thinking of changing it for awhile.
Fcm If I remeber right the older pack still provided anti-starter grind with out adding a extra relay. But I not sure if the installer add it to his car anyways.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i cant remember when i got this avatar, i promise i didnt steal it from fcm, i think i got it from family guys web site, dont worry, ive been thinking of changing it for awhile.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who installed your alarm/starter's? Did they hook it up to a tach source? If not, thats your problem. The crank time isn't set long enough. If it was hooked to tach, the starter would crank until it started.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i installed the alarm, im an installer and ive already looked at the tach wire and my connection is perfect. ive pulled the entire alarm down and looked at every connection and everything looks fine. my next move is to replace the sat. relay and brain, just trying to get some insight.
i installed the alarm, im an installer and ive already looked at the tach wire and my connection is perfect. ive pulled the entire alarm down and looked at every connection and everything looks fine. my next move is to replace the sat. relay and brain, just trying to get some insight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my next move is to replace the sat. relay and brain, just trying to get some insight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a good plan of action, but learn to answer multiple questions in one thread instead of being a post *****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a good plan of action, but learn to answer multiple questions in one thread instead of being a post *****.
I just put that same alarm in my Honda last weekend and it did the same thing on 2 mornings on me.So I took the Alarm Starter Relay box out and just spliced back the starter wire together and I havent had that problem since then.A self hidden kill switch will be better than a starter kill.Good Luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinsouza »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i installed the alarm, im an installer and ive already looked at the tach wire and my connection is perfect. ive pulled the entire alarm down and looked at every connection and everything looks fine. my next move is to replace the sat. relay and brain, just trying to get some insight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh well why didn't you say so?
Id replace that relay pack.
i installed the alarm, im an installer and ive already looked at the tach wire and my connection is perfect. ive pulled the entire alarm down and looked at every connection and everything looks fine. my next move is to replace the sat. relay and brain, just trying to get some insight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh well why didn't you say so?

Id replace that relay pack.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh well why didn't you say so?
Id replace that relay pack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
doing that today, its just a pain as an employee to switch something like that out, employers dont like having to take perfectly good product and give it to an employee, even if they get a new unit.
Oh well why didn't you say so?

Id replace that relay pack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
doing that today, its just a pain as an employee to switch something like that out, employers dont like having to take perfectly good product and give it to an employee, even if they get a new unit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justinsouza »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
doing that today, its just a pain as an employee to switch something like that out, employers dont like having to take perfectly good product and give it to an employee, even if they get a new unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I hear you... when I was an installer, we had countless boxes with raped/broken parts from replacing **** with stuff out of the new boxes lol.
doing that today, its just a pain as an employee to switch something like that out, employers dont like having to take perfectly good product and give it to an employee, even if they get a new unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I hear you... when I was an installer, we had countless boxes with raped/broken parts from replacing **** with stuff out of the new boxes lol.






