For those that dont know ive got a b18c5. plans for it are as follows:

Skunk2 pro 1 cams/gears, valvetrain, all necessary head work
Victor X manifold, plus size tb
Header (undecided at this point), RS*R exhaust, short ram air induction
Hondata

Here lately ive been intrigued by the k24 long blocks. Obviously there is more power to be gained with a k24. so am i just getting a bad case of the wants? or should i sell the itr and do the k series?

and i know the difference in the motors and potential that each one has, so theres no need to hate

 

first of all, is this gonna be for daily driven or strictly track?
if daily driven then b18c5, if track only K24 is the way to go...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first of all, is this gonna be for daily driven or strictly track?
if daily driven then b18c5, if track only K24 is the way to go... </TD></TR></TABLE>

itll be a daily....but the k24 should be just as streetable as the itr....call me out if im wrong

 

Comparing a B to a K, no question, go with the K.

 

im not gonna be running over 12.5 compression....nothing too crazy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comparing a B to a K, no question, go with the K.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i was afraid everyone was going to say.......if i didnt have the b series already i would definitely go k. if someone can persuade me enough to buy the k series i might just sell the b

 

K all the way

Sorry if we are making your life more difficult.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitrna &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i was afraid everyone was going to say.......if i didnt have the b series already i would definitely go k. if someone can persuade me enough to buy the k series i might just sell the b</TD></TR></TABLE>

Displacement
Variable cam timing
Having the exhaust on the correct side of the engine, instead of directly behind the radiator
Choice of 5 or 6 speed tranny

 

how about me give you 3gs for your c5 motor and you can use that to help you buy a k series.. if you got the money k20a tuned will be badass...but i dont really mind any other k series either...just incase you want to sell your c5 and you are also located in cali LMK how much you want..

 

Fully stick to your build upB18C is the better way to go unless u plan on using a R head later on that k24 block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitrna &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i was afraid everyone was going to say.......if i didnt have the b series already i would definitely go k. if someone can persuade me enough to buy the k series i might just sell the b</TD></TR></TABLE>

The B18C5 platform is FAR superior to a K24 motor. The K24 has a weak bottom and characteristicly, it's not ideal for drag racing. However, the 24 block would be a good candidate for autocross due to it's torque curve. If you were going to build a K for track use, i'd stick with the K20 block.

Kseries are a PITA to tune as well compared to Bseries.

You could easily squeeze out 225/150 out of that setup with some good cams, headwork, and a good header. I don't recommend using the Victor-x manifold unless you plan on revving to 10k as it will kill your midrange. There's nothing wrong with the ITR manifold/TB.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong with the ITR manifold/TB.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeap just bore it out if ur goin crazy back on topic stick with type r build..but i would go with better cams/valvetrain then skunk2.. u can make alot of power with those type r even with a stock block w/ built head of course.. rocket motorsport got good stuff..if ur interested talk to "clean rice" he kno his stuff my choice for headers is either 4-1(rmf) or 4-2-1 (smsp) good luck on the decision

 

Honestly, i'd recommend some good headwork, a nice Tri-Y header, and some BC4's or M22x's. Stock block, it could probably pull 215-225 whp with tuning.

 

go with the k24 block / k20 head... you wont be disappointed...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team1320_k24eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with the k24 block / k20 head... you wont be disappointed... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would be, with the torque curve that is (not the actual number produced).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would be, with the torque curve that is (not the actual number produced).</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf??? you serious?

 

are you talking stock k24/k20a2 setup or fully built up vs your currently built b18c5 ?

if you are talking stock then keep your current setup, or then you're just blowing away money for a setup that will prolly be equally as fast ... I'm sure your current setup is a good 220-230hp setup, typically arund the same as a stock k24/k20a2 with header/ecu/cams and tuning.

If you plan on eventually spending lots more $$ to build up the k motor then start saving now and sell your setup later on.
?unfortunately the b-series value has depreciated so much its just a fine line to balance between takign a loss on the built b series vs. starting new with the K.
I'm an advocate of the K dont get me wrong, but it doesn;t sound liek you should get rid of what you have to jump a bandwagon when your current setup can keep up with the "stock" K hybrids out there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm an advocate of the K dont get me wrong, but it doesn;t sound liek you should get rid of what you have to jump a bandwagon when your current setup can keep up with the "stock" K hybrids out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>


FYI.....im not jumping onto the bandwagon. my car would have already been built with the standard stuff if i was all about the bandwagon. yet, i've been searching and searching for mods for about 7 months now to try and make my build as unique as possible. ive had my eye on k series motors far before they became mainstream........dont get me wrong i would hate to get rid of my c5, but its not mainstream when you see the potential of a k series is substantially more significant than that of a b.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLue eGG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my choice for headers is either 4-1(rmf) or 4-2-1 (smsp) good luck on the decision </TD></TR></TABLE>

randy makes a new narrow style b-series header that ive been inquiring about for sometime now. yet with the new cams, etc setup that i want to do im not so sure that ill have the money for a header that expensive. my thoughts here lately though is that i might put off the carbon fiber hood, tailgate, and interior mods in order to do motor motor motor thats all that matters to me anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would be, with the torque curve that is (not the actual number produced).</TD></TR></TABLE> Wouldn't the 2.4/type S head with that big stroke have a wonderful torque curve, far better than a modified c5.....maybe I misunderstood you?

Also, what part of the bottom end specifically is weak on these K24s--I am not so sure that is true, although I personally don't have any experience with them.

 

the k24/k20 set up makes more torque than the c5 makes hp..... so i dunno wtf your talking about.... you obviously don't own a K series.... hell i take take the k20a type r over the c5.... k20a runs hard... i see them run mid 12's in a eg all day long with minor mods... a b18c5 would never do that with bolt ons....


Modified by team1320_k24eg6 at 6:26 PM 1/13/2007


Modified by team1320_k24eg6 at 6:28 PM 1/13/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Wouldn't the 2.4/type S head with that big stroke have a wonderful torque curve, far better than a modified c5.....maybe I misunderstood you?

Also, what part of the bottom end specifically is weak on these K24s--I am not so sure that is true, although I personally don't have any experience with them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. I'd personally rather have a torque curve that peaks at 8 or 8.5k (for drag racing) with the 87.2mm crank than an 99mm one that peaks at 5 or 5.5k and starts falling off as all of your k24/k20 builds do. The K24 produces some pretty high piston speeds and a low R/S which is part of the reason it peaks early and starts running out of steam. Although when it does peak, it's capable of 200+ wtq in fully built status. You could possibly alleviate part of this problem by swapping cranks and destroking to a 2.3 or going with a custom rod/piston/wristpin. Go ahead and search, most K20/24 builds utilizing the 2.4 crank aren't really making impressive numbers with whp in the 180/190 whp range and wtq in the 150 ftlbs range. Add some headwork and cams, and you could make it to 215-225whp fif you're lucky. I'm not impressed. The OP could extract that out of the ITR with cams, headwork and a header, all while not worrying about taking it to 9k on stock rods. I'd much rather run a 250-260 whp/ 160-170 wtq Bmotor with all off the shelf parts. Both setups are capable of going 10's in the right chassis, but the K is more expensive and more difficult to tune. Don't forget the body modifications and suspension to accomodate one.
2. OEM K24 rods/rod bolts.

 

What threads have you been looking at? Most K24 franks are in the 220-230 range. I could link you to multiple threads on here and k20a.org, from reputable shops and people.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What threads have you been looking at? Most K24 franks are in the 220-230 range. I could link you to multiple threads on here and k20a.org, from reputable shops and people.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock block? Link me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Stock block? Link me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22642