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updated kill switch how-to

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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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Default updated kill switch how-to

are there any fuel pump kill switch how-tos with working pictures? all i have found is this one:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1194912
which seems to be good...but the pictures arent up, so i cant tell what to do.

can anyone give me a quick run-down on what i need to do or point me in the direction of a diy? thanks in advance.

p.s. im talking about the correct way to install a fuel pump kill switch (with a relay)...im also interested in a starter kill switch if anyone can show me a diy for that too
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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scratch my question. i just remembered this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938

now does anyone know a good place to find the relays i would need for these two kill swtiches? i dont want to buy a ten pack off of ebay...and thats all i have found.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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Default Re: (alacard)

You do not need a relay to do fuel pump kill switch, all you need is the switch, and it can be done with a small, [1A] on/off switch, [easy to hide] find your PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel pump relay] install the switch on the black ground lead, the switch can be installed anywhere along that ground or you can extend the cut ends of the black ground lead to where you are going to mount/hide the switch, this is the constant ground for the injector relays coil, break that connection and you have no injector power, no fuel pump power no power to some engine sensors and no power for one of the ECU/ECM inputs, the car will not start.

You can also install the switch on the ECU/ECMs fuel pump relay control line, to just shut down the fuel pump, both of these leads are low current grounds, under 200mA, and no 12V+ to deal with.

There are many types of starter kill "switches", but if your car is a standard, starter kill is easily bypassed, there is only one starter kill that does not require a relay, [or a big 30A switch] and that can only be done on a standard, also a low current ground, installing a switch on the "Clutch Interlock Switches" output to the starter relay, but again just as easy bypassed, any other starter kill will require a relay, [12V 20/30A SPDT relay] standard automotive relay... http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp can be found at any auto parts store or car audio/security shop.
If your car is a standard, an ignition "kill" will be more effective.
Scroll down on the link to 12volt.com for some starter kill relay wiring, can also be used as ign. kill. 94
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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thanks for all of the info. as far as the fuel pump switch, wouldnt i need a relay if the wires were extended far?
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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Default Re: (alacard)

no.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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so this is false info?:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use this version when you plan on having the switch mounted far away from the cut point. Anything over 5 feet total extension requires a relay. Extending the wires a great deal increases the resistance which in turn decreases your fuel pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Default Re: (alacard)

Well I would use a relay. I had a fuel pump kill switch on my car without a relay and it fried my fuel pump fuse once every few weeks. I finally got tired of it and got rid of the whole kill switch thing all together.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Default Re: (blu3g)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blu3g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I would use a relay. I had a fuel pump kill switch on my car without a relay and it fried my fuel pump fuse once every few weeks. I finally got tired of it and got rid of the whole kill switch thing all together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
was the wire for the switch very long?
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 05:27 AM
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Default Re: (alacard)

If you are installing the switch on the actual power wire to the fuel pump, the one that comes from the fuel pump relay, then yes, if the lines have to be extended you run the risk of adding too much resistance for proper function of the fuel pump, [a 15A - 20A switch is also needed, regardless of how long the extensions are]. Instead a relay is installed on the power line and a small 1A switch can be used to control the relay.
As I explained, that is the reason, I do not recommend that method, [cutting power line]. When installing a switch on the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relay] coil ground or the ECM/ECU control line to the fuel pump relays coil, you are dealing with a low current ground in both cases, a relay is not required eliminating the need for not only the relay but its wiring, [including 12V+]. 94
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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Default Re: (fcm)

He's not contradicting me in the how-to. He's suggesting an alternative wire to cut that serves the same function. I agree with him 100%. It's one of those things that's "theoretically" better. In other words, there's no problem with cutting the fuel pump power wire as I indicate in the how-to. I've done it on many cars and it has held up just fine for over 3 years on my own car (eventhough 3 years is very small compared to fcms amount of experience). But the potential for problems is greater than if you cut a low current wire instead. So even though it will work reliably either way, his way is better.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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Default Re: (suspendedHatch)

Please understand, both methods are just as effective at cutting power to the fuel pump, the result is exactly the same, no power to fuel pump.
I just don't think adding a relay to cut power to something that already has a relay controlling it's power, is necessary, why not just control the relay that is already there. 94
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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Default Re: (fcm)

no no, i completely understand now. i just had to sit down and re-read it all (i pmed fcm to explain)..but now that ive actually tried to tackle this (using the power to the fuel pump method) i have a problem...


this is the relay i used....now i tried every combination possible, starting with the diagram on the back of the box for the relay, then suspendedHatch's diagram, then anything possible. the car wont start. the fuel pump is not getting power with the switch on or off. the only way it gets power is when it is directly hooked up (no relay or switch...just back to stock)...the switch is working, the fuel pump is fine, all the wires are correct. the only thing left is the relay or maybe the grounds (which i really dont think is it because i tried different grounds as well)...can you guys help me get this right?


Modified by alacard at 5:27 PM 1/13/2007
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