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Clutch Master Cylinder?

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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:34 PM
  #1  
osiris1741's Avatar
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Default Clutch Master Cylinder?

Well, it looks like my clutch master cylinder is out on my 92 S.

I got in to go to work the other day and it went straight down to the floor, no resistance. I guess I'll try bleeding it first but I'd bet since it went out immediately like that, its a broken master cylinder.

Here's my question. Has anybody replaced this before? I've never done it and I'm wondering how much time I should plan on taking to do it.

Thanks!!!
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #2  
pprowler6's Avatar
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Default Re: Clutch Master Cylinder? (osiris1741)

shouldnt take too long the bolts coming out of the master cylinder go through the clutch pedal and bolt on the actual pedal, kind of a pain to get the one nut on and off but other than that its pretty straigth forward
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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Default Re: Clutch Master Cylinder? (pprowler6)

since you're changing your master cylinder, it'd be a good thing to change your slave cylinder as well.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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Default

I would but money is a serious hangup right now. I guess another 30 bux would be worth the hassle of doing it all over again though.

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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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roller3804's Avatar
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Default Re: (osiris1741)

definitely take prelude1897 advice.
replace the slave at the same time.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 02:58 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: (osiris1741)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by osiris1741 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would but money is a serious hangup right now. I guess another 30 bux would be worth the hassle of doing it all over again though.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Trust me, it's better do it them both at once now than to have to do the work all over again later.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 03:35 PM
  #7  
ninja 6's Avatar
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Default Re: (prelude1897)

if you do it for the first time, set aside a few hours

if you've done it before, it only takes like 30 mins
its fast if you already know where everything is and what you're doing.

also remember to bleed the clutch fluid PROPERLYYYY
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 03:55 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: (ap)

Brake the hardline loose first.
Remove the pin that connects the mc rod to the clutch pedal.
Remove two nuts from the inside
Remove the cyl.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:19 PM
  #9  
osiris1741's Avatar
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Default Re: (SteveoBA8)

Well I got all my parts but I cant get the damn pin out. Its almost inaccessible. The pin is pressed right up against the outside of the pedal and there isn't enough room to get any of my tools in between the pedal and the side wall.

Any ideas?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:49 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: (osiris1741)

WD40... also try taking the plastic part of the side wall to free up a couple inches and get some needle nose pliers and rip that bitch out
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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92hondalude's Avatar
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Default Re: (pprowler6)

cant you just loosent the adjusting nut and thread the whole MC rod out of the clutch pedal connecting thing. then thread the new mc on?
be a little easier
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:06 PM
  #12  
JasonST's Avatar
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Default Re: (92hondalude)

if the clutch MC is at fault u should see clutch fluid leaking and dripping around it. The only reasy the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor is because of the lack of pressure. So go through and try and see if u can find where the leak is, all the way from the clutch MC through the clutch line to the clutch SC.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #13  
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Default

Well, I got sick of a 3 inch pin beating me down so I ended up just cutting it off with wire cutters.

There is fluid leaking. A lot actually. Looks like its coming from behind the rubber boot
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