Cylinder Head Replacement. Wont stay running?
1. Bought a 93 integra ls that had a snapped tming belt.
2. Got head, belt tensioner, belt, water pump, all gaskets and INSTALLED THem...i have done a timing belt before.
3. Everything is together and im not sure about the timing. i put it in the same place as where i found it.
4. The car will not start unless u put the pedal to the floor and even with this it sputters slightly at extreemely low rpm's and then stalls.
5. Does anyone have any ideas. i have played with the timing slightly i have tried other (used plugs) and other (used wires). Same thing. The only manifol that doesnt get warm while it sputters is the number one cylinder.
2. Got head, belt tensioner, belt, water pump, all gaskets and INSTALLED THem...i have done a timing belt before.
3. Everything is together and im not sure about the timing. i put it in the same place as where i found it.
4. The car will not start unless u put the pedal to the floor and even with this it sputters slightly at extreemely low rpm's and then stalls.
5. Does anyone have any ideas. i have played with the timing slightly i have tried other (used plugs) and other (used wires). Same thing. The only manifol that doesnt get warm while it sputters is the number one cylinder.
Could be an unplugged sensor....or two are plugged in backwards. Could be you have the spark plugs on the distributor wrong. Are you sure the cam timing was correct? Sounds like a cam timing issue for the most part, but could be one of several things.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nors »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are MAP and TPS sensors backwards?</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the older pre-94s the MAP is different and I dont think they will cross....."I think".
Also, he said he got a new head, thus Im assuming the bent valve idea probably isnt a problem.
On the older pre-94s the MAP is different and I dont think they will cross....."I think".
Also, he said he got a new head, thus Im assuming the bent valve idea probably isnt a problem.
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lol..i had same problem, i changed injectors, fuel filter, spark plugs.
fpr,wires,cap rotor,ecu,s....checked timing belt ton of times,
well you get the idea!!
untill i decided to change the cyl head(i thought what if??)
so i change head ,that was my problem 14,*** miles later
still runs great and idles like a champ
fpr,wires,cap rotor,ecu,s....checked timing belt ton of times,
well you get the idea!!
untill i decided to change the cyl head(i thought what if??)
so i change head ,that was my problem 14,*** miles later
still runs great and idles like a champ
1. I know that the spark order is corect.
2. Im pretty sure that the two map and tps are in there correct locations but i will double check that
3. The head is NOT new but USED. I dont see any thing wron with it and was told it was good. Im using the same cams it came with but i did not do a valve adjustment on it??? maybe i could try that
4. It compression tested at around 125 (+-) in every cylinder..COLD obviously
5. did not do a leak down test???\
2. Im pretty sure that the two map and tps are in there correct locations but i will double check that
3. The head is NOT new but USED. I dont see any thing wron with it and was told it was good. Im using the same cams it came with but i did not do a valve adjustment on it??? maybe i could try that
4. It compression tested at around 125 (+-) in every cylinder..COLD obviously
5. did not do a leak down test???\
Generally bent valves result in 0-90psi compression tests. 190 is much closer to what I've seen out of GSRs (~200 or a little over), LSs are generally lower then that, around the 170 mark from what I've seen. Ofcourse altitude and misc other factors will yield that. Given 125 is still uber low, but I would assume thats due to temp/cold engine more then being worn out. I have seen all the exhaust valve bent just so slightly, but that resulted in a compression test of 50-70 across the board. Im still on board for a wiring issue of some sort.
humm...update.
still will not run. i did another compression test and got about 90 psi this time. added some oil to the cylinder and it went up to about 120.
i guess i should just pull the engine and rebuild it hone cylinder new rings. i wish i could tell for sure if this head is n e goo or not. it does not look like there is n e thing wrong with it.
humm
n e suggestions?
still will not run. i did another compression test and got about 90 psi this time. added some oil to the cylinder and it went up to about 120.
i guess i should just pull the engine and rebuild it hone cylinder new rings. i wish i could tell for sure if this head is n e goo or not. it does not look like there is n e thing wrong with it.
humm
n e suggestions?
I know you said you changed a timing belt before, but you then said you were unsure of the timing.
Check your TDC's on the crank pulley and your cams. Maybe your valves are opening during the compression stroke. 90 is a really low reading.
Also check the ignition timing with a light.
Check all four plugs for spark and gas.
A leakdown test will tell you if your valves are leaking, if your ringlands are burnt or if your HG is blown.
Noob warning: I'm new to B18 DOHC, I have only built turbo D16s. Just offering possible solutions that may help you.
Check your TDC's on the crank pulley and your cams. Maybe your valves are opening during the compression stroke. 90 is a really low reading.
Also check the ignition timing with a light.
Check all four plugs for spark and gas.
A leakdown test will tell you if your valves are leaking, if your ringlands are burnt or if your HG is blown.
Noob warning: I'm new to B18 DOHC, I have only built turbo D16s. Just offering possible solutions that may help you.
how did the cylinders look when you had the head off? were there ridges on the cylinder walls? when i replaced my head, there was still the original crosshatching on the cylinders from the factory, and no ridge.
no ridges. someone once told me that it you put a heavy weight oil in the cylindrs of an engine that has been sitting a while that wont start it will run and and do something to keep it running. i dont know if the rings need to be free'd up. i dont see why. the sylinder pressure should push the rings.
idk i guess ill give it a shot
unfortanately i started school again so i dont have a lot of time. have to work on it one weekend ata time.
idk i guess ill give it a shot
unfortanately i started school again so i dont have a lot of time. have to work on it one weekend ata time.
i added oil to the cylinders to raise compression and started it up. It started no problem and seemed to run pretty well at idle.
I ran the car for about 3o min and it was still smoking from the tail pipe. I tried to drive it and it has no power. it will start but it is very hard to do so.
I think that maybe the rings are bad?
I am planning on putting this project on hold for a while and continuing when i get enough money to:
Take apart
have the deck milled a bit
have the head milled
new headgasket
new pistons rings (hone)
all other gaskets.
I have some ctr pistons but im not sure if i want to do put these in the car and worry about tuning.
before i do this do you have any other suggestions to what i should do.
If i do all this work i will keep the car but if i could fix somthing cheaply i would like to do that and sel the car.
I think that the problem could either be
-Head gasket leaking
-head warped
-somehow the deck is warped
-the rings are bad / cylinder walls grooved...didnt see much. <--i think it is the rings
-or leaking valves?
what do you guys think.
I ran the car for about 3o min and it was still smoking from the tail pipe. I tried to drive it and it has no power. it will start but it is very hard to do so.
I think that maybe the rings are bad?
I am planning on putting this project on hold for a while and continuing when i get enough money to:
Take apart
have the deck milled a bit
have the head milled
new headgasket
new pistons rings (hone)
all other gaskets.
I have some ctr pistons but im not sure if i want to do put these in the car and worry about tuning.
before i do this do you have any other suggestions to what i should do.
If i do all this work i will keep the car but if i could fix somthing cheaply i would like to do that and sel the car.
I think that the problem could either be
-Head gasket leaking
-head warped
-somehow the deck is warped
-the rings are bad / cylinder walls grooved...didnt see much. <--i think it is the rings
-or leaking valves?
what do you guys think.
Rings will "freeze" up if the engine sits for long periods of time. I've seen a few engines where the rings just about wouldnt come out of the pistons. There really isnt outward pressure on them, so they dont move in and out....just up and down.
yeah, i was thinking by starting it with the oil and running it it would put pressure behind the rings and unfree them if this is my problem. It seemed to help.
what should be next step do you think?
what should be next step do you think?
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spettinger
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 9, 2003 06:54 PM



