i just finished my ls swap on my hatch, everything is plugged, but when i go and star thte car, it just cranks but it doesnt start, I know im getting spark, air, but when i turn the ignition, i dont hear the fuel pump start. Could that be my problem? if so, what could it be, relay or a faulty pump. By the way, ive had problems with my fuel relay before. Thanks

 

first off get some starting fuild and see if you can will turn over with that.. then you know its a fuel problem

 

and check your grounds ( do not forget the one on the thermostat housing!!)

 

be careful with starting fluid, if you use it more than a couple times it cause engine damage with the piston rings and **** cause it doesnt have lubricants in it.

pull out one of your injectors and try to start your car, and if it doesnt squirt your not getting fuel.

 

i had the same problem with a motor the fuel pump was coming on and it was the ground on top of the thermostat and then the fuel pump kicked on and it started so like he said check all your grounds

 

yep people don;t relize how important that ground it

 

double check EVERYTHING on the car
its the little things that are easy to overlook
and yes be very carefull with the starting fluid

 

cheaked my ground and it was on anything else

 

make sure your firing order is correct... i could bet you got it wrong somewhere, happens all the time good luck

 

ok well im in schoool right now so when i get home ill take a look at it and let u guys kno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM94HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont hear the fuel pump start. Could that be my problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you dont hear the fuel pump...then that should be the problem...check the fuse...it should be the blue fuse next to the SRS fuse

 

would anybody be able to tell me where these fuse's r exactly located ...under the dash board or the fuse box under the hood because i dont have the cover to the dash board

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM94HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would anybody be able to tell me where these fuse's r exactly located ...under the dash board or the fuse box under the hood because i dont have the cover to the dash board </TD></TR></TABLE>

the one under your dash....when you look at the fuse box...theres gonna be a red 10 amp fuse cover with a yellow plastic, thats the SRS one, next to it, theres a blue one which is your fulepump...
its the 15 amp on the top right hand corner on this pic...labeled ACG(s)


i really dont see any reason for it to blow but you never know...

 

Check the distributor.
I had problems getting mine started
after the drop in. I replaced the distributor
and it was smooth sailing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bgcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the distributor.
I had problems getting mine started
after the drop in. I replaced the distributor
and it was smooth sailing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, but he did say he was gettin a spark...and fule pump not priming, so the problem is in the fule..

 

yeh i cheaked the Fuse and it was good i also swaped my main relay sanded the top of the thrermostate cover and still no luck ..also the Dizzy is brand new

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CivicEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, but he did say he was gettin a spark...and fule pump not priming, so the problem is in the fule..</TD></TR></TABLE>

the distributor can have a bad (weak ignitor) in it and still show spark at the plugs. I experienced this problem on an old 92 accord and have suggested it to a few others on here and half of them have said that turned out to be the problem.

but yeah, see if you can get it to start with the some starting fluid first. with a weak ignitor not even starting fluid would get that accord to catch real good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the distributor can have a bad (weak ignitor) in it and still show spark at the plugs. I experienced this problem on an old 92 accord and have suggested it to a few others on here and half of them have said that turned out to be the problem.

but yeah, see if you can get it to start with the some starting fluid first. with a weak ignitor not even starting fluid would get that accord to catch real good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, but when theres a weak ignitor, wouldnt it take a few tries to turn the car on??i havent experience a weak ignitor on my car but from what i heard, that it struggles to turn on and takes a few cranks to start up with a weak ignitor...not sure though..

 

no luck fellas i m gonna try to get another fuel pump on my hands and il.l let u guys kno how it goes

 

Is the check engine light on? What ecu are you running? Stock or chipped ecu?
If pump was working fine before the swap then high likelyhood that maybe the ecu is bad. What OBD are you going to be running?

If check engine light remains on in the II(ON) position for more than say 2 to 3 seconds then most likely(if pump worked fine before swap) the ecu and or chip is bad.

The pump may have decided to go up and may be the problem, but before you spend acouple dollars on a new pump, may want to check that first.

Hope it helps

 

yes the CEL stays on its donesnt flash or nothing .. and it is a stock p75 obd1 ECU ..is there anything that i can do 2 cheak this out?? Helpp ..o yeh can any of u tell me what BUMB means?

 

a bumb is an unemployed, homeless person...

 

how would i be able to determin it the ECU Is bad by look ing at it ??

 

because it's obd I then you need to short the scs connector. This is a 2 pin connector located on the passanger side up near the glove box area. Just get a simple piece of wire, strip both ends and put one side in one pin, and the other end in the other pin. Basically your connecting both pins with the wire. Then turn the car to the II(ON) position; and watch your CEL. If it doesn't blink at all and stays constant, double check you've put the wire in the 2 pin connector good; if it's in there and constant, you've got yourself a bad ecu.
If it flashes, then count the flashes and then come back here and use the ecu pinouts sticky. it has trouble codes listed.

1 long flash = 10
1 short flash =1

Example
one of the vtec codes is code 21
you'll see
long flash, long flash, short flash
Hope it helps

 

i think ive found the problem.. the underdash wiring harness is fried!!!!!!!!