I have a lot of bug damage on my front bumper/mirror. I re-painted all my trim and redid the moldings so thats fine now. I would like to know what i can do to get the damage out. Its those little circles where the paint(only the clear i believe) is pealing. Can i put new clearcoat on?? Im not going to get it repainted w/ oem paint and i was wandering if these spots(10-12?) are fixable.

Thanks

 

wetsand and clearcoat.

Unless you know how to paint and have a booth and grav-fed gun .... take it to a pro.

 

and that will make it look good, not of the floor good but not these whitish spots?

 

all depends how far the bugs went into the paint, if down pass the clear coat then yes u need it featheredged and primed. if just on top the clear then u can just have it buffed and polish. longer the bug damage stays on the surface the deeper it eats it way down.

 

yeah i know, the guy didnt wash the car, makes me worried about the oil ffs.

What brand/type of clearcoat? rattle can doesnt sound nice...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i know, the guy didnt wash the car, makes me worried about the oil ffs.

What brand/type of clearcoat? rattle can doesnt sound nice...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take it to a shop. You don't exactly sound like you have the know-how and equipment to do it right.

 

Well your honest and i guess thats good looking out for my car in the long run, but i woud like to get this done myself. So what do u recomend clear coat wise and grit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well your honest and i guess thats good looking out for my car in the long run, but i woud like to get this done myself. So what do u recomend clear coat wise and grit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since you don't have a gun, booth, and compressor .... guess duplicolor rattle can **** is your best bet .... then wetsand 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 .... then buff.

 

yea its best to bring to the shop.

 

ah, you sound like you forced yourself to tell me that. lol. Thanks. I am lipless but I went to a local shop and picked up a type r style lip and i dont really want more attention towards my bumper in this condition. I cant wait to put it on.

 

One problem you're almost certainly going to run into is fallout/contaminants on your paint, since you don't have a booth. You're basically going to need to paint in short bursts in a confined and non-ventilated area. Any air coming in will bring in dust, dirt, grass, leaves, bugs, etc.

 

Also, you have to be very very very very

<FONT SIZE="10">VERY</FONT>

careful when wet sanding. You don't want to end up burning through your old clear coat or your new clear coat.

 

thanks, and will a workshop with a/c work? its got windows too..Sounds better then on the driveway..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinumx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, and will a workshop with a/c work? its got windows too..Sounds better then on the driveway..</TD></TR></TABLE>

A/C is nice because it removes moisture from the air, but know that cold air = more drying time .... significantly more. Windows are bad too, unless your screen is really fine. Get some space heaters ....

but do not paint while they are on .... unless you'd like to spend the rest of your life with less than 100% skin coverage.

 

haha, thanks. alright, it has screens but idk, if they are really fine. But i should be able to keep most of the stuff off of it dust/dirt wise because its clean.

 

if u have alot of time on your hands, try to enroll in one those body/paint vocational class, that might let u bring in your own car to get worked on. also u can get some hands on training.

 

Poor man's Paint job how-to:
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=3

just wetsand past the bug damage first.