how do you test a relay??
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Power Door Lock Mystery
I Need Your Help Guys,
i have a 97 honda civic dx with after market power door locks. they were working perfectly fine until one day. i was testing for ground when i heard a spark. then my alarm stopped working. i checked and saw that i blew a fuse in the alarm. i replaced the fuse and the alarm works fine but the power locks don't work now. What can it be??? i thought maybe it can be a relay but when i press the alarm and touch the 2 relays i see they do click when i arm the alarm but they don't click when i disarm, is this normal??? Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Modified by cleartouch33 at 11:48 AM 1/6/2007
i have a 97 honda civic dx with after market power door locks. they were working perfectly fine until one day. i was testing for ground when i heard a spark. then my alarm stopped working. i checked and saw that i blew a fuse in the alarm. i replaced the fuse and the alarm works fine but the power locks don't work now. What can it be??? i thought maybe it can be a relay but when i press the alarm and touch the 2 relays i see they do click when i arm the alarm but they don't click when i disarm, is this normal??? Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Modified by cleartouch33 at 11:48 AM 1/6/2007
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Power Door Lock Mystery (cleartouch33)
It is not normal, one relay should "click" when you arm and the other one when you disarm, [lock and unlock], the most common system used when adding aftermarket actuators, [door lock motors] is a ground at rest polarity reversing system, relays should be wired something like this... http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp the only thing that may be different is the wiring of pins 85 and 86 on the relays, [they are the relay controls] and it makes no diff. if power is on 85 or 86 and as long as alarms door lock/unlock triggers are on the opposite one.
You can test the relays by just supplying a ground to the terminal, [85 or 86] that the alarm is plugged into, for any more testing you will need a multimeter, or at least a test light.
If you have, or can borrow a meter or test light, make sure that there is 12V+ constant power, [not switched] on terminals 87 on both relays and that there is a ground on terminal 87a on both relays, and a ground on 30 of both relays, also make sure there is 12V+ constant power on terminal 85 or 86, whatever terminal of the two the alarm is not plugged into.
If the above is good, power and grounds where they need to be, then energize each relay, one at a time by supplying a ground to the terminal that the alarm wires are plugged into, like mentioned above, if a relay does not energize, [click] you have a bad relay, if they both energize test the output, [30] of the relay you energize, it should test as ground when at rest and test as 12V+ when energized.
94
You can test the relays by just supplying a ground to the terminal, [85 or 86] that the alarm is plugged into, for any more testing you will need a multimeter, or at least a test light.
If you have, or can borrow a meter or test light, make sure that there is 12V+ constant power, [not switched] on terminals 87 on both relays and that there is a ground on terminal 87a on both relays, and a ground on 30 of both relays, also make sure there is 12V+ constant power on terminal 85 or 86, whatever terminal of the two the alarm is not plugged into.
If the above is good, power and grounds where they need to be, then energize each relay, one at a time by supplying a ground to the terminal that the alarm wires are plugged into, like mentioned above, if a relay does not energize, [click] you have a bad relay, if they both energize test the output, [30] of the relay you energize, it should test as ground when at rest and test as 12V+ when energized.
94
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