How do you make a murge collector?
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From: Ga, US
How do you make a murge collector?
I'm woundering if anyone can help. I'm trying to make a header,I can not figure out how to make the four pipes come together for the collector. The tools that I have is band saw, pipe notcher, I have pretty much all of your basic tools. I figured if I notched all four pipes the same that they would come together, but there not. Can some one tell me what I'm doing wrong? Some pictures of the process would help too. Also what I'm using to practice with is 1 1/2 sechedule 40 PVC pipe. I'll try to post pictures of my problem asap 
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From: Lansdale, PA
Re: How do you make a murge collector? (RC000E)
the square plate you attach to the back of the tube being cut, is that flush with the o.d. of the tube? i cant see the cuts being consistant if its not this way ?
my jig is 100 times more simple than that. i have a piece of 1/4inch plate for the base, which is also parallel to the blade, then a piece of 1.5inch tall angle iron welded to the side. and i use a cheap *** c-clamp(a tiny red one i got from lowes) to hold the pipe to the angle iron, then i rotate so the 1st cut faces up, then make the second cut. i have my jig "scribed" so i know where to stop rotating the pipe in order to keep the cuts consistant.
the jig, has 1 through hole, which is bolted to a sloted portion on my shity bandsaw, and then i put a huge c-clamp on it also, to help hold it down.
my jig is 100 times more simple than that. i have a piece of 1/4inch plate for the base, which is also parallel to the blade, then a piece of 1.5inch tall angle iron welded to the side. and i use a cheap *** c-clamp(a tiny red one i got from lowes) to hold the pipe to the angle iron, then i rotate so the 1st cut faces up, then make the second cut. i have my jig "scribed" so i know where to stop rotating the pipe in order to keep the cuts consistant.
the jig, has 1 through hole, which is bolted to a sloted portion on my shity bandsaw, and then i put a huge c-clamp on it also, to help hold it down.
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: How do you make a murge collector? (dturbocivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the square plate you attach to the back of the tube being cut, is that flush with the o.d. of the tube? i cant see the cuts being consistant if its not this way ?
my jig is 100 times more simple than that. i have a piece of 1/4inch plate for the base, which is also parallel to the blade, then a piece of 1.5inch tall angle iron welded to the side. and i use a cheap *** c-clamp(a tiny red one i got from lowes) to hold the pipe to the angle iron, then i rotate so the 1st cut faces up, then make the second cut. i have my jig "scribed" so i know where to ........</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that is how my first one was on my chop saw. I just didn't like the inconsistency of rotating it to a "mark". I wanted something more exact.
The plate that butts to the end of the pipe, like I said, is 1/4" larger than the OD of the pipe. This allows the pipe to lay flat inside the base, and the square plate to lie flush on the bandsaw (base is 1/8", so 1/4" added to backing plate allows 1/8" overhang from OD of the pipe on all sides). The bushing is mounted to the plate on the center line of the backing plate...thefore the pipe rotates along the center. This is imperative though, because if it is off axis your two cuts will be different.
my jig is 100 times more simple than that. i have a piece of 1/4inch plate for the base, which is also parallel to the blade, then a piece of 1.5inch tall angle iron welded to the side. and i use a cheap *** c-clamp(a tiny red one i got from lowes) to hold the pipe to the angle iron, then i rotate so the 1st cut faces up, then make the second cut. i have my jig "scribed" so i know where to ........</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that is how my first one was on my chop saw. I just didn't like the inconsistency of rotating it to a "mark". I wanted something more exact.
The plate that butts to the end of the pipe, like I said, is 1/4" larger than the OD of the pipe. This allows the pipe to lay flat inside the base, and the square plate to lie flush on the bandsaw (base is 1/8", so 1/4" added to backing plate allows 1/8" overhang from OD of the pipe on all sides). The bushing is mounted to the plate on the center line of the backing plate...thefore the pipe rotates along the center. This is imperative though, because if it is off axis your two cuts will be different.
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Re: How do you make a murge collector? (crxsir23)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsir23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i cant make it then i dont wont it 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^ You engineer your own car? Sew your own clothes? Make your own shoes? drill and refine your own gasoline and motor oil, and such?
Just buy a precut one from Sam at http://www.bmcrace.com
You are guaranteed a perfect fit and a great price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>^^ You engineer your own car? Sew your own clothes? Make your own shoes? drill and refine your own gasoline and motor oil, and such?
Just buy a precut one from Sam at http://www.bmcrace.com
You are guaranteed a perfect fit and a great price.
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Re: How do you make a murge collector? (paul vang)
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From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: How do you make a murge collector? (paul vang)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
^^ You engineer your own car? Sew your own clothes? Make your own shoes? drill and refine your own gasoline and motor oil, and such?
Just buy a precut one from Sam at http://www.bmcrace.com
You are guaranteed a perfect fit and a great price. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats essentially $30 in parts (and thats 2-3x more than BMC pays for them in bulk), and they charge $150. Even assuming you pay someone $70/hr to weld that up, its still much more than I'd expect. And saying merge collectors are of utmost importance is just a crock of ****. If this was seriously the case, people wouldn't be running cheap Chinese-made forged rods (aka Eagles) in their hondas all over, they'd be spending $1000 for those 4 hunks of metal. Likewise that'd be like using $1400 pistons. I can say the last time I saw a car running $1k in rods and $1400 in pistons had a blown chrysler V8 with top-shelf everything.
As for the clothing/etc bs, give a man (that gives a **** about his pride) some fabric, a sewing machine, and some thread, and he'll make his flannel shirts for $1. I also HIGHLY doubt you paid BURNS good money to design your whole exhaust system, including the mani, on their x-whatever design system. And by the way the towelheads are raking in the cash, I'm starting to think maybe drilling oil is too easy.
In other words, merge collectors are only 'mysterious' because most car guys failed geometry the first time through, and because they're generally a pain in the *** to do regardless, unless you have a production-scale jig set up.
^^ You engineer your own car? Sew your own clothes? Make your own shoes? drill and refine your own gasoline and motor oil, and such?
Just buy a precut one from Sam at http://www.bmcrace.com
You are guaranteed a perfect fit and a great price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thats essentially $30 in parts (and thats 2-3x more than BMC pays for them in bulk), and they charge $150. Even assuming you pay someone $70/hr to weld that up, its still much more than I'd expect. And saying merge collectors are of utmost importance is just a crock of ****. If this was seriously the case, people wouldn't be running cheap Chinese-made forged rods (aka Eagles) in their hondas all over, they'd be spending $1000 for those 4 hunks of metal. Likewise that'd be like using $1400 pistons. I can say the last time I saw a car running $1k in rods and $1400 in pistons had a blown chrysler V8 with top-shelf everything.
As for the clothing/etc bs, give a man (that gives a **** about his pride) some fabric, a sewing machine, and some thread, and he'll make his flannel shirts for $1. I also HIGHLY doubt you paid BURNS good money to design your whole exhaust system, including the mani, on their x-whatever design system. And by the way the towelheads are raking in the cash, I'm starting to think maybe drilling oil is too easy.
In other words, merge collectors are only 'mysterious' because most car guys failed geometry the first time through, and because they're generally a pain in the *** to do regardless, unless you have a production-scale jig set up.
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: How do you make a murge collector? (HiProfile)
man, I moved my response to his other thread and no responses over there at all. That's the difference between the weld/fab forum and here.
Everyone there says build it....everyone here says just buy it. Anyone can click a buy it now button. Only about 1% of us make it though
Why discourage someone attempting to do their own work?
I can tell you though, if you cut your own collectors they cost you about 11 bucks in pipe plus the cost of your flange. Even if you buy your flange for 20 bucks your talking 31 dollars plus your weld time. That's versus buying one for 150 welded. This entire manifold didn't cost me 150 dollars, it didn't cost me 120 even.
Everyone there says build it....everyone here says just buy it. Anyone can click a buy it now button. Only about 1% of us make it though
Why discourage someone attempting to do their own work?I can tell you though, if you cut your own collectors they cost you about 11 bucks in pipe plus the cost of your flange. Even if you buy your flange for 20 bucks your talking 31 dollars plus your weld time. That's versus buying one for 150 welded. This entire manifold didn't cost me 150 dollars, it didn't cost me 120 even.
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: (paul vang)
Yes mostlikely, but not necessarily. The collector welding is the hardest part so I could see some people wanting to bypass that part. Plus BMC wouldn't be selling them welded if people weren't buying them.
I'll agree with you for the mostpart though. In that case though, they only sell you the four cut pieces which is 60 bucks. That is only about 11 bucks in material your receiving though...still alot of savings doing it yourself.
I'll agree with you for the mostpart though. In that case though, they only sell you the four cut pieces which is 60 bucks. That is only about 11 bucks in material your receiving though...still alot of savings doing it yourself.
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